Subaru and Robin are the same, the engines are made by Fuji in Japan. Very good product but parts are scarce and expensive.

Hello,

EH18V was introduced to the US market in the late 90's. We've discontinued the production of this model around year 2001 due to lack of demand from the US OEM's. Since the product was on the market for a few good years, we're obligated to keep the parts supply in our stock for long years after discontinuation.

The part number for the Ignition Coil is 261-79401-41 and we have it listed for $99.96. The electronic components tend to be priced a little higher, I figure because of the costs involved in manufacturing it, compared to other engine components. Please make sure you contact one of our distributors to receive the best available pricing on our parts, $115.00 is a little high for this service part. To find a distributor near you, please visit our website and use our dealer locator, I am providing the link below.

http://subarupower.com/dealerusacan.aspx

Regards,

Subaru Power
Lake Zurich, IL

A young friend who mows for school money picked up a Snapper with the EH18V engine- I think. LOL. I looks like the EH18V anyway- the exposed metal shroud version- OHV. I handle his repairs as needed. He runs Snappers as I believe they are the toughest, least expensive decks to keep going over the long haul.

The engine ran fine when I inspected it, then again when he fired up a couple of times to show off to some motorhead buddies, then after owning it for a day, it would not start. I cannot find that it has any spark. I have removed the kill wire when cranking. Used a cheap Harbor Freight tester (the kind with a light bulb) and the bulb does not light up at all. I sanded off the magnet on the flywheel and the coil face (fairly rusty)- still nothing. I found a SB indicating some had hard restarts when hot due to coil being too far away- I drilled out the mounting holes and moved it closer- I use a Stihl service tag (business card thickness) as my spacer and it works every time- but not this time. Tired a new plug- nothing.

So, I am assuming the coil is bad. Finding this thread, I see coils are expensive! If I go by the number provided, I cant even find one for sale using google to search. I have tried all my usual online sources for parts- nothing. In addition, I simply cannot justify spending $100 on a coil for a $300 mower.

I have seen many brand new coils with different part numbers on places like eBay that look identical to this coil, but hesitate to start throwing good money after bad. Any chance some of these might fit and work on this motor?

Or am I missing something with the existing coil, or does anyone know where I can get one for less than $50, or did he just invest in a boat anchor? I feel bad for him as I advised him I have always heard these were great engines- "The Honda Killer" as I have heard some dealers say about them.

If you can find coils that are older than the number we provided above, you can use them. I don't think fitting aftermarket coil will work on this engine due to certain magnet requirement specs.

Please try setting the air gap between the coil and the flywheel's magnet anywhere between 0.012-0.020in. using a filler gauge instead of Stihl's service tags.

Picked up a NOS Robin 2 cycle motor on ebay, need correct crankshaft for a Snapper 21" Hi-Vac mower that is selfpropelled. Anyone got any parts for these? See link:
Looks like the seller has one more left.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Robin-Snapper-EC13V-4HP-2-Cycle-Engine-/270858372254?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0amp;hash=item3f106ac49e#ht_3941wt_1374

Interesting engine. I have a couple of Snappers with the WTI-125V/EC-13V 2 cycle motor. Mine are from the late 90's so are nameplated Wisconsin-Robin. Your motor has an oddball shaft, which I believe is for the Comet BBC. Standard direct drive Snapper application uses 3-5/32 x 7/8 or 25mm. Also, your engine does not have the zone start control.

Although you can't bolt up the engine and use it on your Snapper, if you paid $100 you got a good deal for parts. Coil costs at least that much, and the Mikuni carb is in the same neighborhood.

The only thing not practical to substitute are the cranks, because the crank is a three-piece built up assembly, and requires an inspection plate and gauge blocks to set it up properly upon assembly.

ggoyeneche-

I don't understand what you mean by inspection plate and gauge blocks,can you elaborate on that,I figured it would be a simple procedure to switch crankshafts to the snapper self propelled style.

The crankshaft is a three-piece, right and left shafts, plus a press fit crankpin connecting the two. The con rod and its bearings are assembled thru the crankpin before everything is pressed together. It's absolutely important that you get the two pieces lined up correctly relative to one another, and that there is no sag or camber to the assembled pieces.

Send me an email through the forum, and I'll respond back with the page from the parts list which illustrates what I'm talking about.

What type of oil should I use for a 6.0 eh18 motor and what's the capacity