Tecumseh says there are special tools needed to remove and replace the oil seal on the crankshaft. Is this true? Or can I use a pick set to remove the seal and just press the new on in place as the old one was situated?

Thanks.

I should have mentioned as well that this engine is also leaking a bit of oil around the valve cover, and I wonder if maybe the problem there and around the condenser side of the crankshaft is that the oil was/is overfilled (it's hard to tell on this engine b/c is doesn't have a dipstick) and that that's what's causing the leaking in both areas. Possible?

First, breather may be clogged or not working properly. May be causing crankcase pressure to build, forcing leaks. Breather has a small one-way valve designed to produce slight vacuum within crankcase.

Second, you need to consider than crankshaft is worn at seal location. If so, replacing seal won't help. It will be more work, but you should consider pulling out crankshaft and inspecting for seal face wear. Also, with crank out, it is easier to remove and drive in new seal.

If crank is bad, engine may not be viable economic repair. Not sure crank is still available, but bound to be expensive ($75-$80 on a later H30/H35).

If oil leakage is moderate, in other words you can live with cosmetically, but points are being fouled, you might consider coverting to electronic ignition using an "Atom" or similar module.

And this machine long ago fell into the "educational" category (until yesterday I'd never taken a flywheel off anything other than a string trimmer, and as soon as I get a feeler gauge, I'll be setting points for the first time), so I'm willing to spend a few dollars here and there to explore and learn. Interesting point about switching to solid state ignition -- I'll consider that if the new points don't produce better spark (weak spark was the reason for tearing into the points and condenser to begin with).