Your alternator is under the flywheel.
The TWO Yellow wires goe to the Voltage Regulator.
The Black is likely the kill wire to the ignition coil?

IF you look at the schematic, you can see the test point for the alternator.
It's the Yellow wires TO the VR.
With it disconnected, measure the voltage at high engine speed.
It should be 28 VOLTS AC as per the schematic.
IF it passes, the alternator is good.

The VR should be a little "cube shaped box"
There should (likely) be a 3 pin connector to it with the 2 Yellow wires on the outside and the Red wire in the center.

Right now the mower is not running at all. It ran for 2 days when it was returned to me about 4 hours in all over several startings. The man said he had worked hours on rewiring but he did not have the schematic either. When it was running you could not put on the brake and get off the seat without it shutting off. Yes the blades were off. That is why I decided to recheck the wiring. Thank you for the information. If I take the flywheel off, does it just come off without anything else coming apart at that time. I want to make sure I do not get in over my head and if it all fell apart I would be. If you could let me know this I would appreciate it.

D NOT remove the flywheel!
At least not yet.
What would you do once you removed it?

You say the mower isn't running at all?
Is that due to the battery being discharged and you can't start it?
IF SO- Get the battery charged. We need to get the enging running to test the alternator. IF it tests good, you DON'T have to remove the flywheel. That would be a major project in itself!

If you look at the schematic, you'll see 3 Operator Presence Relays (OPR)
When you turn the key ON, manipulating the seat switch SHOULD make them click. Do they?
IF so, that will assist in locating them if you don't know what they look like.
it may also assist in further troubleshooting to remove one or more.

So, the main thing we need to know at this time is-
Can you get the mower running?

Ok the battery is charged and reads on the meter
At this moment there is no gas in it does it need gas to turn over or even click.
I am going to go look for the opr relays.
Let me ask you this, should there be a yellow wire cut under there that goes no where it is just cut off clean. In my schematic it shows it going to the alternator. That is why I figured I had to remove the flywheel.
I also know when the man finished with rewiring it as he called it the seat switch opr did not work. If you got off the mower with the blades off and brake on, it still shut off, had never done that before. The man admits to doing it outside in the dark and only 1/2 knowning what he was doing.
If you can walk me through checking up to that point then if it is the alternator I will find someone else to do it. I don't think I want to go that far myself.
So I will go out and check what you said and get back to you shortly. Thanks

The engine "should" crank if the battery is charged.
It's not going to run without gas though-

IF you have a volt meter, you can test the alternator.
The engine has to be running to do that.

There are 2 Yellow wires (per schematic, but I've heard that sometimes they are White) going from the alternator to the Voltage Regulator.
There is also 2 Yellow wires going to OPR 2, pins 30 & 87A

Remove OPR 1 and OPR 2 for now.
OPR 1 should prevent the engine from killing when you get off the seat w/ park brake set.

ok checked battery it is charged it was new and I charged it for 14 hours last week. I even took the jump battery I just bought and charged out there and hooked it up. There are no clicks when I manulipate the seat switch with the key on. Just no sounds at all. Brakes are on, blades are in off position. Nothing

Oh yes I did put gas in the tank and check to be sure it was going through the gas filter to the pump.

OK.......
A quick check to see if the fuse is blown is to turn on the head lights. IF they light, fuse is good.

Does the engine crank?
I'll stay close to the computer-

Here's a link to the OM in a pdf file.
I suggest you print page 33 (schematic) to have it handy.

http://www.managemyhome.com/mmh/lis_pdf/OWNM/L0304249.pdf

Here is a link that might be useful: OM

Thanks I will print that page and get back with you some time tomorrow evening if that is ok. I quit for the night a little while ago, dark outside, and I am really tired. If there is just one fuse in the mower. A larger blue one, it is not blown, but will try the lights tomorrow, they are unhooked at the moment as the hood is off. Thank you for your help, I have been running 3 other projects all day, and than just quit. Later and thanks again

IF it cranks, the fuse is good.

Here's a pic of an OPR

This post was edited by bill_kapaun on Tue, Jul 23, 13 at 13:26