I also detest "integrated" designs that require you to replace perfectly good working parts simply because they are "part of the assembly". This link may help steer you in the right direction toward converting points to electronic triggered spark;

http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/images/novainst.gif

The advantages of are few but worth it IMO - accuracy, consistancy and (arguably) reliability.

The big problem with many of todays small engine coils is they have their electronic spark triggering diodes (vs. yesteryear's spark triggering mechanical points) epoxied directly into the surface of the coils themselves. This is that little 1 inch square "bump" visible on the outside of the otherwise cylindrically shaped coil consisting of copper windings. This little "integrated" diode takes a lot of abuse by constant engine heat and vibration and eventually gives out ..at which time the owner finds out he must replace the entire coil assembly (even though technically the coil itself is just fine), to the tune of $200+ in some cases.

The coil on the famously popular Suzuki 2 stroke 47P engine on the older Toro commercials is notorious for crapping out like this and folks get a few more miles out of those coils by cooking them in their kitchen oven for 20 minutes at 220*f. Its not exactly clear how this works to temporarily "fix" the coil internals, but its often successful. If someone were to open up the epoxy & paper covering from one of these coils and replace just the bad OEM diode by wiring in one of these aftermarket diodes, there would be many grateful Suzuki 47P owners. Alternatively, bypassing the diode and going back to mechanical points trigger (such as found only in the 47P's first year of production 1983) would also be a solution.

If the old one ran fine until the coil crapped out I would just replace the same parts and not upgrade. I see nothing to be gained by switching to what is essentially an add-on or aftermarket conversion. And I see the potential for problems since the engine was not originally designed with that module.

Well, if some of you doubters have ever had to change the points and condenser on a B&S early engine, you would know why folks changed to the electronic ignition module.
The points kit had a little spring, and a plastic cup-shaped thing, and two tiny wires had to be inserted into the shaft of the condenser while you held the tiny spring down with the cup. And, just about the time you thought you had it ready, something would slip, and the cup would fly off, the spring would roll off and hide under the work bench, and you'd spend two hours searching for the spring and cup! $15 for the electronic replacement kit was lots easier! And, the engine ran better, and never noticed it had a new lease on life!
Geez, i suspect you nay-sayers are still driving Model T Fords, or 1928 Packards!

Naw, driving a 2004 Volvo V70. But that's beside the point(s). I've changed them on a Tecumseh and Briggs and the hardest part was getting the flywheel off. And in my experience the ignition system on those older mowers really required very little maintenance unless it was left outside.

If this is a Briggs w/ the points under the flywheel, you install the new coil w/ the "Magnetron" in the coil. The spark will be better, more accurate and you'll never look back. No need to pull the flywheel, just nip the old wire going to the points. The new coil will have a double pigtail, just use 1 kill wire and and nip the other. (they have two- one for the stud style and one for the slip clip style) I don't know if you can even buy a point type coil anymore for these.

All of the engines i junk have had their electronic ignition coils removed and saved. Then when i get an older points type ignition engine, i just change the coil/magneto, and away we go! Points/ condenser problem solved! RJ