Hi. Rather than replacing $250.00 lawn mowers every few why don't you consider buying a better lawn mower. It will save you money in the long run because it is better built and will last a lot longer if routine maintenance is kept up. And it will do a better job of mowing, bagging and mulching. It is not unusual for a good lawn mower to last 30 years or longer.

My recommendation would be a Toro Super Recycler model 20092.

What makes that one better? I looked it up and it seems to have more features, like self-propelled, but why will it last longer and do better for me?

The one I have narrowed it down to is a Husqvarna 4.4 Ft-Lbs Torque 21" Cut Gas Push Mower (Lowes). It is not self propelled (which is okay -- I need the exercise) and it has a Honda motor which gets good reviews. I'm still concerned that it only has a 21" deck. But then almost all of the mowers in my price range are 21" or 22". Any thoughts on this one, good, bad or is there something else better?

Couple suggestions;
Sloped 1/2 acre with a ditch using a push mower is very ambitious. You'd better be in top physical shape or this will wear you down fast. While I like Toro's, I don't prefer their Personal Pace systems in bagging and ditch situations. Their drive system hangs up on pulling back the mower and full bag weights throw off the balance making it worse. Ironically, your needs would be met with an old 2 stroke SP mower like a Toro 22040, 3 speed, light weight and no oil sump to run dry in inclines, but alas the EPA ran them outa town 11 years ago :(

I've owned a variety of mowers over the years and have reaffirmed the consumer truism that one usually gets what one pays for. You have convinced yourself that continuing to repeat the cycle of buying and replacing inexpensive cheaply made lawn mowers is a better idea than paying a bit more and getting a machine that will last. That is fine, it is your money.

You seem to have focused on two factors 4.4 foot pounds of torque and a motor labeled Honda that will make a superior lawn mower. I think you will find that they do not translate into well cut grass and decades of longevity. I think in a few years you will be looking once again to replace a mower that has started to fall apart.

There is an old wives tale that pops up periodically about 4 stroke engines somehow running dry of oil when used on a slope. That is utter nonsense. If it were so lawn mower repair shops would be littered with burned out 4 stroke motors. And we know that is not the case. It is usually posted by some of us who look in vain for ways to prove the outdated and pollution prone 2 stroke engine still has a place in the modern world.

Roadbike: Your 100% correct I have cut approx 1 acre with a 21" 5 HP Quantum Briggs for over 4 yrs now and had until this yr 4 ft incline to the ditch to cut and never had any issues with oil starvation during this elevation cutting.

JS: The above mower was a 2nd hand unit approx 3 yrs old slightly used when I picked it up from a Buddy who I assist with small engine repairs. It was a rather well built unit for a Box Store ( White Outdoors) . I have begun some landscaping recently and envision moving up to a better form of grass cutting equipment , perhaps next yr.. If you look around you will find some pretty good deals , new or used. The engine is what sold me on this unit . I would suggest a Snapper or Toro myself if you wish Quality new unit , you don't perhaps need the self propelled models . I myself prefer Mulching but that's just me . Good luck in your search . There are numerous well informed members who hopefully will chime in further within your needs.

viking, Toro drive systems don't hang up in reverse if they are used properly. They have the best wheel clutches in the industry that completely release 100% when backing. All that has to be done when using one is allow the mower to roll a couple inches forward with the drive not pulling it. It's a technique that is easy to master.

If you religiously cut the grass back by 1/3 of its height (eg: if you keep it cut at 2 inches, then you'd cut it as soon as its grown to 3 inches)regardless of whether its been a week or only 2 days since you last mowed, like is recommended by all the experts, then you may be perfectly satisfied with an inexpensive low powered mower because you'd only be removing roughly an inch and a half or less at a time and you'd not be subjecting it to the constant stress of bogging it down in tall grass. But as a general rule neither a mulching mower nor a bagger will do an efficient job unless they have a lot of power if you let the grass/weeds get tall before you mow, if then. However, the more torque the engine has the happier you'll be with the results I think. Buy the most powerful mower you can find within your budget. You'll get a more powerful engine for less money if you go Briggs & Stratton or Kohler over Honda and B&S is generally less expensive to repair if they need it. B&S has a lot of detractors, but with the exception of one push mower, every one I've had or used in the last 30+ years has had B&S engines. All were box store mowers from K-mart, Sears, etc. and all virtually trouble free for many years even when not cared for properly.

Jsuits, plenty of good advice here..
Our wants/needs are nearly identical(1/2 acre, exercise, economics)
But,would it not be better to use a 36" or so walk behind and then spend that saved time in the gym ??
Lawn mowing is fairly good exercise...using a 21" on half an acre...as I do..
$300 ?
The LawnBoy 7229 was only $35...probably hard to find another one.
The LawnBoy with personal pace was $400, 4 years ago..
DIY can save you a small fortune.
With gasoline being so expensive today, I'd think using a modern 36" machine would be the most economical, but the initial cost involves that decimal point.

Sorry I didn't respond to each reply but I have definitely read them all and you have pointed out many things I might not have otherwise considered.

I decided on a Troy-Bilt with a 6.75 torque B&S motor, self propelled and lots of nice other features. I paid $270 for it at Lowes, brought it home, put it together quickly and easily and started mowing what is now 1/2 acre of densely packed 3' tall weeds. The motor is powerful, but I'm glad I spent the extra bucks for the self-propelled model because it would be rough to push that heavy thing up and down my sloped yard.

earthworm: I agree that a wider deck would be much better, but that decimal point was out of reach for me and I think I would have had problems in the drainage ditch which runs the length of the front of my lot.

It was a dream out of the box. In fact, I mowed until it was so dark I couldn't see the grass in front of me. Now, time will tell if it is reliable and durable.

Thank you all for your advice. I learned a lot.

Here is a link that might be useful: My New Mower

JS: Well you got a good price on the unit . You are correct in the larger rearwheeled units are quite often boat anchors to manuaver . Hopefully the Selfpropelled feature will hold up . I have never been a fan of the Troy-bilt line they have to many outsoucing of parts especially within snowblowers and trimmers. Have no experience with their mowers so heres hoping they are MTD or Murray Origin. There are numerous experienced members who can give you more advice on the Troybilt . Not to rain on your parade for the price you have paid you do have some nice features and B&S engines normally are a safe bet . Just keep the unit cleaned and don't buy cheap oil ! All the Best :)

A good deal on a 20 yr old Lawnboy or Toro SP on Craigslist.