There are a few variables here. First thing, if you didn't use the OEM belts, cut the old ones off and install new OEM belts. The variable speed pulley must also work freely. The rear idler must rotate freely under load. The belt must be routed on the proper side of the pin guides. The brake must release easily and not be sticking. Actual model # from below the seat will be needed if you need specifics.

Got it fixed today. Belts are MTD brand and they are put on correct. All it took was a couple of squirts of PB Blaster on the variable speed pulley. I took the cover off the gear shifter area, cranked it up, put the FNR shifter in neutral, moved the speed shifter up into gear and sprayed the lube into the pulley. It freed up and it pulls great now. Good thing I didn't break down and send it to the shop.

PB Blaster has a very thin solvent for penetration and is not meant to lubricate. I'd suggest you go back and lube the transmatic pulley with a good synthetic oil (30wt or so) which will last much longer than PB Blaster after the solvents evaporate.

I got a bolens 42 inch 17 up and have put 3 belts on this summer alone when going up a hill it doesn't want to pull just humps and stops after bout 3rd cut with new belt anybody have suggestions #########help!!!

I had an old lawn tractor that had the 2 belts, with the variable speed thingy, that slid up and down on a shaft. I worked all week on it, and finally got it working! Or, so I thought. Backed it outside, went to close garage door--smelled smoke--and that durn tractor caught fire and destroyed itself in the driveway, while I did a soft shoe dance, chanting:"Burn, baby, burn!" rustyj

Ya get that way, after many years of frustrating repairs, on infernal machines that don't want to cooperate witcha! Rustyj.

Put lower drive belt on holes 38 in lawn tractor now it is in gear all the time help