Fall although you have given further info on the origin of the mower this time . You have again neglected to mention the origin of the oil . Is it Dino Oil or Synthetic Base ? This is what determines the ability of the oil to protect your investment. Also some engine tolerances by design require certain lubricity factors.
Shell puts out a very good mineral based and syn oil products , which are available almost anywhere within North America. AMsoil is probably one of the finest proiducts I have used of date for all my applications other than my Diesel lol . I would probably use Klotz within a LB , however you may not have that brand locally also . In closing any Quality Brand 2-stroke oil with TCW-3 Rating according to the resident expert on the forum (Orange) is what is recommended . I would run 50:1 , but I believe you may wish to start at 40:1 Ratio , just keep an eye on your plug colour medium brown to carmel is optimum no lighter or darker (leaner or richer) mixture should be used long term.

Do not recall the oil brand...it was a tiny bottle at Home Depot. I recall it said synthetic blend? The bottle was tiny. How come they do not make a bottle that produces 32:1 for one gallon added? I was looking to purchase a string trimmer too, and that was quoted as 32:1 ratio too on the box. Are these oil bottles all 50:1 for one gallon, and to get the ratio correct I need to add less gas? Does any equipment use 50:1 ratio?

Four ounces of oil into 1 gallon of gas will give you the 32:1 ratio recommended by Lawnboy. Most 2 stroke equipment manufacturers now specify a 50:1 ratio.

I'n not going to get into the opinions that "this oil will protect at such & such ratio".

Well, yes I will. The lean oil ratios are being brought on by pressure from the EPA, I'd stick with what the equipment manufacturer recommends in this case.

Fall: Unfortuantely the Oil Manufacturers don't make bottles at least around my area that make it idiot proof ! At least not in a 4 ounce bottle for once gallon of gas etc. They once did via Dealers at 16:1 then 24:1 , 32:1 , 40:1 (chainsaws) back in the day , currently most recommend 50:1 . It all about the newer Oil Technology .
Normally they have a reference guide showing how many ounces of oil with a certain amount of gas will give what ratio . Normally both one gallon of fuel or 5 Gallons of fuel , and let you mix for your application. Most Premium Syn Oils Amsoil for example advertise up to 100:1 or 1 ounce to a gallon of gas will adequately protect any 2-stroke application. I personnally prefer 50:1 on all applications from Lawnboy mowers to Snowmobiles to Chainsaws or Outboards. Even with todays Mineral Based Dino Oil 50:1 is more than adequate . However I do know that Orange has used and trialed numerous oils over the years on various LB units and strongly recommends TCW-3 Rated Marine Grade) Oils . I don't like to much carbon within my engine so therefore 32:1 is a definate to rich in my opinion . Like I said 40:1 may be more to your comfort factor especially if you buy bargain basement corner store brand oils.

I'll throw caution to the wind and make this situation even stickier. 1) Lawn-Boy oil was made 'thinner' for faster, more complete mixing with gas. Consequently, more of it was required to provide proper oiling. The solvents used to thin it were needed to keep the engine clean. 2) Currently-available oils are more concentrated, using less solvents, so you use less to get the same amount of oil protection, but you have to make up the difference in solvency to keep the 'self-cleaning' properties of the Lawn-Boy 2-cycle.
I use Marvel Mystery Oil along with a modern synthetic or synthetic blend in my 2-cycles although I no longer operate 2-cycle mowers. When I did, I used this method for years with no problems. It produces less smoke and less carbon. My method is to use a 50:1 oil at the recommended ratio plus 2 oz MMO per gallon of mix. I have used this mix in a LB10550 (Duraforce) and a LB 10201 (V-engine), and I now use it in my various 2-cycle stuff.
Fall: you don't use different amounts out of the little bottle, you put the whole amount into different amounts of gas to get the different mixes. I would not get the little bottles - get at least an 8 oz bottle with measuring dispenser. Depending on the size of your gas can, put the oil in for the mix you want. If you add any solvent oil like MMO, do not subtract any oil from your mix - add the solvent oil to the full-strength oil mix.
Bottom line, if you err, do it on the rich side. A modern synthetic blend oil at 32:1 is overkill for most any 2-cycle but at least you'll know you're safe. Even at this ratio, you'll get less smoke and carbon than with the old LB oil just because of the improvements in the oil over the last 40 years.

After rereading your description a couple of times I am not clear what the bottle says. One container of 2 stroke oil can be used to for a variety of mix ratios simply by varying the amount of oil added to a gallon. I do not know of an oil that will both produce 32:1 and 50:1 mixes without varying the amount of one component.

If you want to use the Home Depot oil please go back to the store and carefully read what it says. Or pick another brand - the results will be the same. The mixing instructions must be followed so be sure you understand them. And please don't change from the mix ratio recommended by the manufacturer.

RB: They use to sell 4 ounce bottles of Oil for numerous manufactuers 2-stroke oils back in the day to be mixed within 1 gallon of fuel . It was a convenience issue and 4 or 6 packs were oftened offered as a discount marketing ploy . Stihl a few yrs ago was the last mass marketed saw which did this with 4 ounce bottles recommended at a 50:1 ratio within 1 gal. of fuel. Also Older Vintage Manufacturers oil recommendation due not have to be adhered to any longer with modern oils eg: LB Duraforce Gold used older dino oil with blended additives that warranted 32:1 in that era only . Using oil at that ratio with todays oils is a waste and potentially damaging to engine life.

This all sounds a bit confusing to a newbie 2 stroke owner. So I hear some say you can use 40:1, 50:1, and 32:1 is a waste, etc. Appears no clear answer that to follow other the manufacturer ratio that is also flagged as "old" and no longer appropriate for new oils? Wasn't this new oil around in the Durforce later years, if so why did LB still recommend 32:1 if one used other than LB oil?

Some of the Older 70's and later LB's had plain babbit wrist pin bearings that were prone to galling under heavy loads . Heavier weight oils or heavier ratios were the norm back in that era.
Also the LB were rated for marine grade oils since they were at the time owned by OMC . These oils were advanced for the time with additional additives for oxidation and moisture resistance and anti fouling agents. Todays oils supply far supperior lubricity at a much lower oil to fuel ratio. Therefore lesser is better (less carbon fouling potential) Also less ash potential which could contribute
to local piston hot spots. As for Lawnboy and its recommendations forget it they had an interest in selling there oil brand which was only adequate at 32:1 , the more you use the more they sell . I remember when the Big 3 Snowmobile Manufacturers where Marketing 16:1 and 24:1 when 40:1 was more the adequate . I raced semi-pro and 50:1 was what we ran with Caster based Racing Mineral Oils (Klotz-R) from the 60's to mid 80's . In Short by a Premium Oil and run it at 32:1 if you wish but keep an eye on the plugs for carbon fouling , which will give an indication of any future potential overheating issues.

if the tool specs 32:1 give it at least 32:1. Brand of oil isnt an issue as long as it is 2 stroke oil Synth or dino is matter of choice too. I mix a rich 32:1 and run it in a weed whacker speccing 50 :1, a 32:1 LB and a 40:1 Stihl. Lately I add MMO too, Current mix oil is a qt of Valvoline universal mix oil.
In 30 yrs I have had no trouble with fouled plugs or clogged exhaust ports. I'm sure this will anger some purists, but I'm going with what I know works.

I guess the rest of the population just follows the owner's manual and does what that says. There is no way the average Joe would know what was mentioned on the previous posts.

All Lawnboy engines with needle bearing wrist pins (except the M series) call for a 32:1 oil ratio. You can almost never go wrong running the engine manufacturers recommended ratio. That is 4 ounces of oil per 1 gallon of gas. Lawnboy E series engines were still being made in 2004 so that is well within the era of modern oils. Lawnboy oil in 4 ounce bottles is still available but it is in plastic bottles now. For the most value for your money, buy a cheap measuring cup and purchase good 2 cycle oil in quart bottles. Measure 4 ounces to a gallon of gas and your done. I have modified my mixtures to 40:1 with 1 ounce of MMO per gallon of fuel. This has proven to be great for reduced carbon build-up.

That said. There are 3 oils that I will run at greater than 32:1 in my Lawnboys. They are, Amsoil Saber, Opti-2 and any Castor based oil. Castor based oils will not fully burn at the lower RPM's that mowers run at. I'm currently trying 40:1 but may have to go to 50:1. I don't run anything at 50:1 anymore. Even my Stihl chainsaw gets 50:1 and an ounce of MMO per gallon.

There are great oils out there. Pick a good name brand that fits your budget, marine grade TCW-3 rated or higher. I know a landscaper that runs 2 E series lawnboys on nothing but WalMart Supertech outboard oil. He has done this for 15 years that I know of. I was told that the Supertech stuff is made by Pennzoil. The best priced name brand oil I've found is Quaker State 2-cycle at Menards for under $3 a quart.

Just to add to the info on oil, Lawn Boy oil is sold at either Ace hardware stores or DoItBest hardware stores.
The big box stores, at least in my area (east) haven't had it for a while. Also, Acme food markets have carried it in their "automotive"section. As Orange said, it's now in a plastic bottle. No more cans.

Actually, a 32:1 ratio is less of a problem with modern day oils than it was in the past due to newer oils burning much more efficiently. I have never had a fouled spark plug when running a properly tuned Lawnboy at a ratio of 32:1. These engines have run for decades at this ratio so feed them what they were designed to take.

My oldest Lawnboy is currently a 1972 5270 D series. I bought it from the original owner who fed it nothing but the same marine oil he used in his outboard engine. After fixing the recoil it started on the third pull and runs great. It still has 90 psi compression after 39 years. Not bad.

'Wasn't this new oil around in the Durforce later years, if so why did LB still recommend 32:1 if one used other than LB oil?'

Manufacturers that have their own oil brand never recommend another kind of oil. Did you just fall off the turnip truck?

As Sax said, the manufacturer is always going to recommend their oil first. One, for profit reasons and two, they know that it meets their warranty specifications. Here is a direct quote from my 2003 Duraforce owners manual, page 8. My 1991 L21ZPNC manual says the same thing.

"Your Lawn-Boy lawn mower is powered by a two-cycle
engine which requires a 32:1 mixture of gasoline and oil.

Use only Lawn-Boy Generation II 2-Cycle Oil (Fig. 10) or
an equivalent premium grade, NMMA TCW III-certified
two-cycle ashless oil.

Important: Do not use automotive oil (i.e., SAE 30 or
10W30), a two-cycle oil that is not NMMA
TCW III-certified, or a fuel mixed at the wrong
gasoline/oil ratio. This can cause engine damage not
covered under the Lawn-Boy warranty.

Well about time you chimed in Orange . I knew you would advise of your Agent Orange TCW-3 and MMO secret additive lol . I agree with the Sabre , that is what I currently use within my Snowmobile and Chainsaws at 50:1 . I also have used
Castor Based Klotz R back in the day within my Snowmobiles in Racing Appications and also in my old 2-stroke Lawnboy . I briefly ran Opti-2 within my Pioneer Saw back when it 1st came out another very good oil product. I remember back when LB also recommended 16:1 ratio's . Anyhow glad you had time to add your recommendations for the OP .

You know me and a Lawnboy oil ratio debate. LOL. Like you said in an earlier post, 16:1 was used before Lawnboy went to needle bearing wrist pins. I'm running Klotz BeNol in my C21ZPN. MAN I love that castor smell.

My MMO formula has done well for me for 3 years now. No real "secret", I'll share with anybody.

All engines love MMO in the oil and gas, and 2-cycles particularly thrive on it. I have to get some Klotz Castor Oil - I think people have forgotten (or never knew) that Castor Oil was the first aircraft engine oil and I think is still used in small model airplane engines. Using my string trimmer would be fun again with that unique aroma!

Especially humourous to see the expression on your neighbours face when he gets a wiff of your Klotz Castor Blend while your cutting the fence grass line lol .

Fall, I think you're misreading or misinterpreting the label. As far as mixing ratios, all oils are the same. A 32:1 mix is 1 gallon of gas (128 oz.) to 4 ounces of 2 stroke oil regardless of oil brand. The different ratios listed on the label should also give appropriate amount of oil to mix with a gallon of gas to acheive that ratio. In other words, it should say to get the 32:1 mix, use 4 ounces of oil per gallon of gas, to achieve a 50:1 mix, use 2.5 oz. oil per gallon, etc. The ratio is oz. of gas to oz. of oil. If you know the ratio you're supposed to use, but don't know how much oil that equates to, just divide 128 oz gas(1 gallon) by the higher number in the ration, eg: 128 oz. gas divided by 32 equals 4 oz. oil. 128 divided by 50 equals 2.5 oz. oil, and so on.

Fall said: "This all sounds a bit confusing to a newbie 2 stroke owner. So I hear some say you can use 40:1, 50:1, and 32:1 is a waste, etc. Appears no clear answer that to follow other the manufacturer ratio that is also flagged as "old" and no longer appropriate for new oils? Wasn't this new oil around in the Durforce later years, if so why did LB still recommend 32:1 if one used other than LB oil?"

It really is so simple. Just follow the directions for your lawn mower. If the instructions say use a 32:1 ratio then buy a bottle of 2 stroke oil and follow the directions for that ratio. Please do not follow any backyard mechanic advice and alter the ratio. By doing to you could destroy bearing surfaces from under lubrication or soot up the piston, plug and exhaust port from excess partially burned oil.

'As far as mixing ratios, all oils are the same'

Well, there's the rub - they are not all the same. Opti-2, for example, is super-concentrated and is designed to be run at 100:1. If you run that at 32:1, you will be wasting money and producing a lot of smoke. That is an extreme example, but valid nevertheless.
Like RB said, you can't go wrong using LB oil at the strength recommended. I used other oils/ratios when I had 2-cycle mowers and they all did rather well. I have to admit that I chickened-out on Opti-2 and ran it at 66:1. I like to see just a little smoke for that 'warm and fuzzy' feeling. In the 2-cycle equipment I have now, I use Echo 50:1 oil. I haven't seen any internal engine problems. I did throw away the Ryobi trimmer head I used for 14 years, but that was only because I got P.O'd at the carburetor. The power head was perfect.

What's funny about Opti-2 is that the small, 1 gallon, mix packets actually come out to be a 71:1 ratio. The larger bottles are a 100:1 mix ratio. This was explained on another forum as the 1 gallon packets were originally made to be mixed with Imperial gallons instead of US gallons and it was never changed. Since Interlube International of Bellingham Washington is the maker of Opti products, I don't know why they would make an Imperial gallon mix as their only 1 gallon mix packet. It's the only explanation I've ever heard though.

I never used any of the packets, only the 32 oz bottle. Tell you what, the 4-cycle oil is great too. I use the 30W in my Tecumseh LEV195. It goes for about two years before it gets dark enough to clearly see on the dip stick, and it never turns gray from aluminum dust - in other words, the rings are not eating away the bore. They claim it has a higher 'eutectic' ability than other oils. This is said to be the 'welding' action of knocking off high spots on the two rubbing surfaces and filling in the lows. All I know is, the 1989 B&S-engined mower I started using Opti-4 in is still in service at my brother's house although I no longer provide Opti-4 for it. I use Quaker State SAE30HD in it now. I guess once the Opti-4 smooths them out they stay that way.
As for 2-cycles, I have no doubt the Opti-2 was the best oil I ever used in them, mowers and smaller engines too. I never detected any carbon build-up with it at all.

RB: Running what the Manfucturing Agent recommended back 20-30 yrs ago is silly and potentially damaging with many of today superior oils. As Sax has indicated anytime you see excessive smoke you have residual carbon deposits within the engine which can cause ring blowby and local piston dome hot spots. Sure if you have any 1960`s or 70`s oil unopened and stored properly for the last few decades feel free to mix to 32:1 or 24:1 or even 16:1 if your unit was of that vintage and mineral oil ratio recommendation . Take it from a former Diesel Mechanic who knows his oil spec,s my 1966 Pioneer`s (P-20 & 1160) run very well with a 50:1 Mix of AMsoil Sabre and Regular Gas . So much for the 16:1 Manufacturers Recommendation .

Note: The later Duraforce engines were recommended 32:1 for one simple reason LB stated that you use their Marine Grade Oil . I would beleive you could run 80:1 with a Premium Syn Oil with no problem as numerous friends of mine do with their 2-stroke units for over 5 yrs . I would never recommend such an extreme mixture but , it is being done within various applications (marine , air cooled and water cooled) with great success.

I don't believe an agent of the manufacturer was ever mentioned by the OP. The OP should contact the Lawnboy Department at Toro to determine their recommendation for the proper oil and mix ratio. I would recommend against him trying a non-factory solution. The engine on his mower was designed to run at 32:1 and is not one of the newer engines designed to run at a leaner oil mix ratio. He should of course realize that 2 stroke oil will become increasingly difficult to find as that outdated design disappears from production.

Sounds a bit like shade tree mechanics with snake oil mixtures of oils. I would guess 99 percent of the duraforce buyers are using 32:1 ratios. Do you really think the average buyer is analyzing rations and mixtures. They are reading the manuals. And the manual says equivalent other oil...it just does not say LB oil. And the Duraforce is a modern engine relatively....

The newer 50:1 or 100:1 oils are just less oil conveniently (and expensively) packaged for a 1 gallon mix.
All the OP has to to is use simple math or an online calculator to scale the oil properly for 32:1. Buying oil in those small pre-scaled packages is expensive. The OP should consider buying in larger containers and remembering to measure the correct amount for each gallon. Or just selling the darned thing and buying a more reliable mower with a 4 stroke engine.

I'll say it again. Newer oils burn more efficiently so running them at 32:1 won't cause any problems in your Lawnboy. You only run into problems with the out of the ordinary oils at this ratio. I would not, and do not, run Amsoil Saber, Opti-2 or Castor bean based oils at 32:1. I have not had ANY problems with carbon build up (this is before my MMO mixture) with modern oils and they include oils like Klotz, Maxima, Yamaha, Honda and Bel-Ray. I was using my MMO mixture with my run-of-the-mill oils and just started doing it with everything since the MMO has already been put in the gas.

I hear you, but none of the posts agree to anything, and each has their own snakeoil mixture. Therefore, I agree, stick to 32:1. I generally trust engineering recommendations.

Mowers: No Snake Oil rationalization of any kind . Simple Better Oil Technology of todays oils preclude the need for such excessive oil ratio's in my opinion. I agree with Sax and Orange who both have yrs of experience within Lawnboys that Premium Grade Mineral Based Oils of today have low ash properties and reduced carbon potential than previous vintage oils. Also the Premium Syn Grade Oils have even greater lubricity and film strength factors at even lower oil ratios than the best current minerial oil of today . Other than the Castor Based Oils which I have used on numerous racing applications within both aircooled and liquid cooled small engines , I agree with both Orange and Sax that a little more oil (32:1) is probably not the Devil it use to be . I still stand by my past statement that 40:1 would be more than adequate and I agree with Roadbike that the OP seems a little overwhelmed with the task of mixing 2 or 4 or 6 ounces of oil with a given amount of fuel to obtain his required fuel / oil mix ratio . I would think that the recommendation guide on the side of most oil containers would be rather clear ?

Note: Roadbike: The Manufacturing Agent I was referring to was within the OP's Sept 12 posting stating he had a original LB Oil Container recommending 32:1 Ratio . Therefore LB advised their oil to mix at that specifc ratio whether it was mixed with 1 gallon or 5 gallons .
In closing I will again bow to Oranges Superior working Knowledge with LB since I only owned two units both early 80,s I believe E or D-400 Models. Both units were worked hard but maintained well with 40:1 Opti-2 and Klotz as previously mentioned , then later switched to 50:1 with Klotz R. Both units ran well for over 12-15 yrs respectively. But then perhaps I was fortunate that these units were of better engineering design and therefore more forgiving than the Durforce of today . The Oil Debate never Dies lol :)

Whether one oil produces more or less unburnt residue is almost irrelevant. The primary reason oil is added to gasoline in 2 stroke engines is for lubrication. And the engine makers specified a 32:1 ratio for proper lubrication. Not 50:1 or 100:1

The only reliable authority for whether a higher ratio may be safely used in an older engine is the manufacturer. Not some guy working on lawnmowers under the shade of a backyard tree.

I think the original poster was most confused by the great variety of small one gallon mixes on the shelf. Some being 3.2 ounce (40:1), some being 2.6 ounce (50:1), some 8 ounce bottles with a chart on them and some being squeeze bottles with measuring cups built in. Throw in Opti-2 and their 100:1 in anything mix and it really is daunting. It can be very confusing for someone that's not eaten up with the 2 cycle bug. Lawnboys are the oddball for mix ratio and are not catered to anymore in the quick mix gallon size anymore.

Then, he comes on here and gets different opinions from all sides. The good thing is, it's very hard to kill a Lawnboy as long as you have some kind of oil in it at a ratio between 20 and 65 to 1.

If you can't find 32:1 ratio bottles and don't want to measure out oil in a cup, just buy 40:1 or 50:1 mix bottles and add 1 ounce of MMO per gallon of gas and you'll be fine. If you splash in more than 1 ounce of MMO, it won't hurt a thing.

"The only reliable authority for whether a higher ratio may be safely used in an older engine is the manufacturer. Not some guy working on lawnmowers under the shade of a backyard tree."

Truer words were never spoken there Roadbike.

Good grief...that is basic intermediate school math. And for those who didn't pay attention in school there are online calculators. Anyone who has cooked at all has had to scale recipes and their proportions up or down.

Roadbike: Yes Lubrication or Lubricity is what is paramount unfortunately , the Older Generation Oil , specifically Mineral Based did not have the same lubricity or Film Strength as todays Premium Oils . That is what determined the Mix Ratio back in the day . The Oil would breakdown quite readily therefore more oil (ratio) was required. Unfortuanately this increased carbon deposits which caused all kinds of issues with overheating and decreased engine performance and life. As Orange has indicated along with Sax LB oils were and still are Marine Grade TCW-3 Rated with Solvancy additives to help with carbon potential. The additional MMO addition will not hurt when common sence usage is followed. My point is that there are other oils out there "TODAY" which will give even better protection short and long term and not require 32:1 Mix Ratio,s and addition of MMO or decarbonizing of heads or rings ...ect.

Note: The original Poster was concerned with availibility of LB oil and proper oil usage .

P.S. I love your analogy of Cooking and Oil Ratio Measurement 101 lol will have to remember that one. In closing you are correct that following the current Manufacturers advice is the Safe Bet although following Sharp Backyard Lawnmower Mechanics Real World Recommendations is nothing to sneeze at . I think both Orange and Sax have yrs of Lawnboy Mower working Knowledge within this matter :)

Keep it simple...use LB oil. The only oil specially formulated to meet the needs of your Lawn-Boy 2-cycle engine. You guys act like LB oil is the same oil made by them in the 1950s? I guess they used stabilizers back then too.

http://www.lawn-boy.com/productinfo/parts/oil.html

Thanks for the comments about the basic nature of mixing ratios. Now that you are all done, I will again re-ask...how can this brand be one for all. Promix is the brand. I am not the only one reading the bottle this way, I did a google and found these few...of many.

http://www.lawnsite.com/archive/index.php/t-28197.html

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/oil-fuel-lubricants/190734-beware-pro-mix-2-cycle.html

One poster as quoted:

"Thanks Gary. This particular bottle of "Pro-Mix" Say's "Safely Replaces all mix ratios" 50:1 down to 16:1 uses the same mix. "

Say's "Mix a 2.6 Oz chamber of oil to one gallon of gasoline" "Use this ratio for 50:1, 40:1, 32:1, and 16:1 ratios"

Fall: On this forum you will not find a reliable answer to the question of which oil and mix ratio can be used in your old 2 stroke engine. The only source for that information is the Lawnboy department of Toro. Have you called them yet? Or are you going to keep repeating the same question and get endless rounds of the same answwers.

When I started using Lawn Boy mowers (1956 model 7000 C-13 motor) the manual said to use SAE 30 wt non detergent motor oil at 16 to 1 and that was it. Lawn Boy then recommended cleaning the exhaust ports every 20 engine hours. They usually got cleaned when a power drop was noticed. In 1965 I bought a 3052 LB(C-76 motor) and continued to use 30wt oil until the early 80's. I switched to LB oil when I had acquired several later model mowers that called for 32 to 1. I continued to use LB oil, 32 to 1 and for the old mowers, 16 to 1. I did try Opti-2 oil after talking to an Opti -2 rep who said that I would be OK using it in my old mowers. Having only one can of 2 cycle fuel made more sense. It was fine in the newer mowers (d-601, F, and a Duraforce) but the C motor on the 3052 showed signs of something binding in the motor. Anyone who has used the early Lawn Boys know that they tend to coast to a stop after the ignition is cut off. This motor was stopping far too quickly. I switched back to LB oil at 16 to 1. Problem solved. Obviously, something in that motor was not being properly lubricated. I've never used synthetic oil (except in my 4 cycle equipment), I'm sure it would be better but I'll stick with what I know works .
This mower has been in constant use since '65 and still has, at last check, 80 psi compression. So as long as the proper mix ratio is used along with a good 2 cycle oil A Lawn Boy can have a long life, but forget the 30 wt

Bogman: Yeah even the OLD 60'S ERA chainsaws ran Sae 30 back in the day before 2-stroke oil technology became superior. The new Syn 2-stroke oils are light yrs ahead of what Lawnboy or even any lawnmower Manufacturer required back in the day . Never hurts to stick with what your confortable with .

RB: I agree 100 % :) I believe we have flogged this Bear to Death lol . We have to be boring Orange also :) .

What Bogman said is what I hear over and over. Thin ratios in the older 16:1 plain bearing Lawnboys just don't cut it. Something in the nature of their design. As far as the "Promix", I've never heard of it and would much rather have someone else do the field testing before I try it in my Lawnboys at 50:1. Amsoil and Opti-2 have track records a mile long, but not in the 16:1 engines.

Put an ounce of MMO per gallon of gas in that 50:1 Promix and you'll be fine in a 32:1 engine. Your Lawnboy will live for many years.