There are many starter versions thus reasons this would happen.Maybe the rope is just simply too long. If a foot were cut off would it still be long enough? Model and spec #s of the engine would help.Have repairs recently been done ? New unit?

Short of winding the rope one more time around the starter coil, I would just cut off a foot. Just don't let go of the end or it WILL be gone.

Fall : Have no idea of what your recoil is attached to ? But a reference would be to inspect the recoil spring for proper tension . If this appears ok then as advised just shorten the rope length and never fully pull the cord to the end point .

It is on a Techumseh 6HP engine model HSK60 on a snowblower. I had it for about 10 years. Last season not sure why, when I pulled it the extra foot of rope problem started. I do not think I can rewind it...it appears to be totally sealed. I guess I will cut the rope short. I would guess the only way to repair is to buy another part. No repairs were done...it just happened. The spring pressure on the recoil does seems kind of weak...and sometimes the coil is longer than 1 foot hanging out.

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Usually the easiest way to replace a starter rope is to remove the top metal shroud from the mower, to which the rewind assembly is riveted. It's probably held on by 4 bolts and possibly the oil tube is attached to it. Disconnect the oil tube by removing the one screw that attaches it to the shroud and let it in place in the engine to avoid a mess. On the common Briggs engine, the gas tank has to be removed first. Remove the majority of the fuel using any approved safe method. Remove the 4 screws on top and 1 screw on the underside of the tank of a Briggs engine.

On the Tecumseh engine, the tank is often affixed to the shroud by light pressure. This example is a Tecumseh shroud and the rewind assembly is held in place with two external screws, shown in the highlighted area. Removing these screws will allow the rewind assy. to be lifted off, without removal of the entire shroud. There is also an aluminum crimp on the rope.

I always apply Never Sieze to any bolts removed, before reassembly.

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Remove the old rope by pulling the remainder all the way out until you see the knot at the end of it, which is still remaining in the assembly. If the rewind spring was getting weak, you may be able to turn the pulley one more revolution tighter for more recoil strength. Measure the length of rope needed and replace with the same diameter rope.

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Line up the slots and put a screwdriver through the closest slots to hold the recoil spring at that position, so it doesn't rewind. Now push the end of the rope backwards and cut the knot and remove the rope completely.

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Push the new rope through the same holes you pulled the old rope through and tie a single knot, trim off the extra rope on the outboard side of the knot, put a few drops of fingernail polish on the knot and let it soak into the fibers. Install the pull handle using the same single knot and nail polish.

Now you can hold the rope, remove the screwdriver, and slowly feed the new rope into the rewind pulley until the slack is gone.

Re-attach the engine shroud and oil tube, pull the rope out of the housing and secure the pull handle at the handlebar. If you have used the same diameter rope as the original, you will be set to go. If the rope is a larger diameter, you may have binding problems, a short pull, and will have to remove some rope at the pull handle end. If your rope is a thinner diameter, you'll be OK, but it won't last as long.

Just wrap the rope around the pully another turn,
or two. You will have to turn the pulley against
the spring and hold it there while you wind.
Also, try to get some spray lube into the center
pivot point, as they sometimes corrode and this
is the result, since spring pressure is not much
at the end of the rewind.

If you've never opened up the recoil, something has gone wrong to allow the extra rope to hang out. Either the spring inside is corroded and not free to return the rope, or the spring is damaged and slipped off its hanger for one or two winds.

I am not understanding the recommendation. I can just turn the center piece and wind the cord fully. But when pulled again, it hangs out. Not sure I understand how to get more spring tension in the inside to keep it wound tight? I see no need to pull out the cord to replace...the cord is fine.

Pull out the cord all the way, use a screw driver to lock the pulley in place. Fish the cord out where it goes from the pulley to housing from underneath, pull all the cord so the handle rests on the ferrule. Carefully remove the screwdriver while holding the pulley and spin the pulley one or two turns tighter. Reinsert the screwdriver. Pull the cord back out, hold the cord, remove the screwdriver and allow it to wind back in.

Generic advice. You need either more spring tension, or a shorter rope. You will not gain any re-wind by wrapping the last foot. The "right" way is to remove the rope and then wind up the spring, hold it, and then put the rope back on. I had to fix this recently on an old Stihl saw. Once I figured out how it went together, I just oiled up the spring and put it back together. I think what happens is the spring gets stuck and it jumps out of its retainer. That happens to B+S starters too.. Prolly from sitting. Both of my old Ariens blowers have plug in starters.. :)