The first one looks like a Euphorbia. Does it have milky sap? Which one it is though, I don't really know.

The second one looks a lot like Kalanchoe delagoensis, although I thought it was greener than yours looks. I am pretty certain it is a Kalanchoe of some sort. Let's see what others have to say.

Euphorbia characias or Euphorbia characias wulfenii.

Kalanchoe (Bryophyllum) tubiflora.

Joe

Wow you guys are great, thank you for the fast reply and accurate information!!!

Btw, does the curling of some of the leaves of the Euphorbia characias indicate any problems? It just started doing that recently.

The first is definitely a euphorbia but I am not at all convinced it is E. characias. Characias doesn't branch - the flowering stems emerge directly from the root crown. And leaves typically clothe the stems from top to bottom. It should also be blooming or very close to it at this time of year and I see no indication of any budding let alone flowering. The leaves also look longer than is typical. But there are many species of hardy euphorbia and a lot of them seed and hybridize very freely.

Don't worry about the curling, many euphorbs do that. But I would be concerned about the yellowing lower foliage.....that's usually a sign the plant is receiving too much water.

I've had the euphorbia for six months now and i haven't seen any flowers yet. I did some searching online and was blown away by how beautiful the flowering is on different varieties, so i hope mine blooms this season! I noticed the yellowing only happens to the bottom leaves right before they fall off. I will reduce the water and see if that helps. Since most of the leaves are green I'm assuming the watering problem isn't too bad. I really appreciate everyone's input, I've already found a lot of valuable information about caring for these plants now that i know their names!

Euphorbia characias ssp. wulfenii blooms anywhere from January to late March and at a very early age (even 1st year plants should produce blooms). In warmer climates, like SoCal, I would expect it to be in full bloom right now.....it is just starting to fully open buds in my area.

Most hardy euphorbs, especially those with Mediterranean origins, prefer rather poor conditions as long as drainage is very sharp - lean, infertile soil, sparse watering and full sun are their preferred conditions although for the most part they are quite adaptable and do very well under normal home garden conditions. Too much water is always a concern......these are very drought tolerant plants and I'd avoid placing them where they receive routine irrigation.

#1 reminded me very strongly of a Pride of Madeira (Echium fastuosum).

Kevin : )

That bare stem of #1..., can it be Kleinia ?

For the first one, I would say Kleinia neriifolia. Anyone agree?

Christopher

I think #1 is most likely Euphorbia lambii, although it if it is, it is unusual for this to branch so low to the ground, as it more normally grows as a 5 to 8 foot tall single trunked specimen with branching all above 3 foot in height. In any case, the stems and foliage habit greatly resemble E. lambii. This species will self-sow easily, and larger plants should be budding up in flower right about now. It is not nearly as tolerant of freezing temperatures as E. characias.

I vote for Euphorbia lambii, that really looks like a match! Thanks everyone for your input and help in identifying them and excellent information.

Older leaves turning yellow on the stems of Euphorbia lambii is completely normal for this plant, and doesn't represent any sort of problem, it is just what the plant does to start looking more "tree-like" as it gets height. After 6 months of being in the ground, it probably doesn't need but once a month watering in the dry months, it is a pretty drought tolerant plant. If it doesn't bloom this spring, for sure it will bloom next year in winter/spring. The flowers on this are very similar to E. characias, except they don't extend as tall above the foliage, but they are the same chartreuse green in color. If you don't want Euphorbias to self sow around the garden, you'll need to cut off the seed heads before they dry out and pop seeds all over the area.