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ID on this plant ?vine

Posted by starsplitter 4/5 New Eng (My Page) on
Sat, Apr 19, 14 at 23:08

I thought that I also posted this second plant earlier today, but apparently it didn't get transmitted.

This is in Massachusetts. The plant I want to know about has leaves with toothed margins (foreground). The plant to the right background is beautybush.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: ID on this plant ?vine

Campis radicans.


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RE: ID on this plant ?vine

Thanks very much! I guess I should dig it out soon. I've heard that this can be very aggressive.


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RE: ID on this plant ?vine

I've heard that this can be very aggressive.

==>>> that might be an understatemetn.. lol ...

i would cut it at ground level.. and apply RUp or stump killer... and i bet it still takes repeated applications to kill it... i doubt digging will ...

if you dig.. you dont know where it will pop back up ... by killing a stump.. if it doesnt die.. you know where it will pop back up ...

unless its real young.. maybe you will get lucky and dig it all up

ken


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RE: ID on this plant ?vine

Thanks, Ken. Good point. The foliage isn't up now, but the plant is/was in two locations. The plants have not been there long and I think it was something I brought in by accident with something else.

My plan is to let the foliage come up a bit, maybe for a month, then spray with Rup or similar. About 2 wks after the foliage dies back (I'll put a marker there), dig the roots and area up. If I understand you, your saying that just trying to dig the things up may have the roots remain enough so that I begin to get offshoots here and there?
Other invasives I wish I could totally or partially eradicate are:
Wild Cucumber (some neighbor planted for some reason.)
Some type of bittersweet (that I think came from my ignorantly lugging home a wreath about 20 yrs ago. There are not that many plants, but they are DEEP and STRONG).
Spurge -- pretty, but.
Violets in my lawn
Self Heal all over my lawn
Bouncing Bet (I'll leave it at edge of woods and roadside for hummingbirds)
Himalayan Balsom -- suddenly appeared last year. Going to remove all of it and stay on it.
At least invasive blackberries give something back.


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RE: ID on this plant ?vine

then spray with Rup or similar. About 2 wks after the foliage dies back (I'll put a marker there), dig the roots and area up.

==>>> why???

i said cut and drip ... undiluted RU ... read the label ... stump killing should be clearly noted ...

wont you kill everything around it.. by spraying ?????

i use the very expensive applicator at the link ... in fact .. Sat i gave a neighbor such for bramble and grape killing ..

2 weeks is incredibly optimistic on stump killing .. of a woody plant ...

good luck

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link


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RE: ID on this plant ?vine

Thanks, Ken. I've got two of these approximately 2 year old patches of Campis radicans.

I said "spray" but what I usually do if victim plants/weeds are near anything else is to paint it on with a toss away foam brush, or let the pump sprayer trickle onto the foliage and stems. I like you expensive applicator and will start saving up (and will label contents so no mixup at picnics).
So, I should use very concentrated? (I can't find it now, but somewhere I thought I read to use concentrated....)

There isn't any "stump" to speak of (maybe if I did a bit, I can spot one), because the plants are not very old. I was under the impression that I should douse the foliage with the brush killer and that it would then be taken up by the rest of the plant, including the stems and roots.

Given that there are just some thin stems (not up yet), should I still cut it down and just treat the ends of the stems? Again, no real "trunk" that I can detect.

So, I should allow more time for the solution to work, and stay on top of it with more treatments.

I also have bittersweet (1 to 2" stems) -- so is a good approach to eradicating the bittersweet to cut it down to ground and apply Rup to cut off stem/trunk and keep at it? I'll give that a go.

I also have invasive "wild" blackberry (Burbank?) and poison ivy. I'll try your technique with the brambles. The Rup, even when more concentrated, didn't do much to pursued the poison ivy to give up. Any other brand of brush killer that you can recommend?
Thanks so much.


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RE: ID on this plant ?vine

Given that there are just some thin stems (not up yet), should I still cut it down and just treat the ends of the stems?

C. radicans creates massive root stores that are difficult to destroy completely from the surface. If they are established vines, better to dig down a foot or so along the root from which the thinner stems/vines emerged. Cut through the thicker root and swab (soak) the end with (in) the concentrated herbicide. Parts of the deeper root will likely survive, but appear less able to put up strong shoots from a foot or more below the surface. Small bits of deep, lateral, or layered roots that do manage to survive will continue to send out new shoots, but will be fewer and weaker; then if becomes a matter of attrition to keep them pulled before they can rebuild root (or seed out). Sounds like yours are new enough to not be so bad. Our less aggressive campsis × tagliabuana vines were in the ground about five years before we figured out that the nursery had actually sold us c. radicans. Photo is one example of how substantial the vertical roots we were dealing with had become in that time.

Here is a link that might be useful: Trumpetcreeper Control (Purdue)


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RE: ID on this plant ?vine

Holy Cow, Bostedo!

What a pest this CREEP is. Good luck with finishing your eradication work and thanks for the photo, info and link.

I will try to do an exploratory lap on the two sites today and see what root system I uncover, then keep after it. Wasn't there a movie titled something like, "What Lurks Beneath?"


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RE: ID on this plant ?vine

Not so much a creep as a grizzly bear: easy to admire its strength and beauty in the open spaces of its natural habitat, but not the sort of thing the average person should be trying to confine on a typical urban lot. :-)


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