#1- Diffenbachia
#2-Dracaena deremensis(looks like a goner due to overwatering/less light)
#3- Pothos I think or may be philodendron?
#4- Don't know
#5- Don't know
#6- Looks like Oleander

Your plants look like they need some more sunlight.

4. possibly Ardisia crenata

5. may be Dracaena godseffiana, gold-dust dracaena

This post was edited by carol23 on Sun, Dec 8, 13 at 15:52

Thank you very much for the replies.

They all came in 1 planter basket and I repotted all of them into their own planters with drainage holes and watered them. I did this last sunday and we haven't had a sunny day since in south central PA. I moved all the plants to a southern facing window today so I'm hoping for some sunny days so they can dry out. Do you think this is a good move?

They almost look frost damaged? Could that be? or maybe sunburned or maybe just super dried out. Sometimes it's hard to say just by looking at them.

Thank you for the response.

The soil in all of them is still moist since last Sunday.

The pots all have drainage holes. They have been in a NE facing window since then too.

I have moved sine of them to a south facing window today.

# 3 Philodendron Scandens
# 5 Aucuba

I guess !

5. IS Dracaena godseffiana!

5 is not Aucuba. Wrong structure. It's as Saltcedar and Carol23 said.

you just planted them ... and state they are wet ..

STOP watering them.. until your finger.. inserted to one inch.. indicates they are drying ...

just because they seem limp ... does NOT mean you keep watering..

if you rot off the roots ... it wont help ...

i agree on cold damage ... re: the first to ...

head over to the houseplant forum for more guidance ...

ken

ps: dont worry about something you cant help ... like lack of sunlight in PS in winter ... lol ... but do watch out for cold windows ... cold wet roots are usually not happy.. so not too close to the window in winter .... its a temp issue.. not sunlight .... especially if you have a forced air furnace.. and a heat register under the window... then it can be a humidity issue ... oh its just endless.. lol ... bottom line ... two weeks BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE .... let them settle down.. before you go fixing more things ....

Dracaena godseffiana has been renamed D. surculosa for those interested. The cataphylls confirm this is what it is.

I learned a great lesson I think may help you. Not with identifying but in general. We tend to think a bigger pot is better but out plants roots like to be "cozy". You don't want to stick a small plant in a big pot. They will stop thriving and growing. What I saw was a lot of plants that were in way too big of pots. I would suggest that you only put the plants in pots that are just barely bigger than the root ball. Since I started doind this my plants have exploded in good health and good growth. Bigger is definitely NOT always better.
I have no help for id'ing though. I'm lost there also. Best of luck. You have some nice looking plants. I hope they all make it.

Teawah (and Kelby!,)

If you're using a chunky, porous, airy soil, root rot is not a concern. Bagged potting soil is known for its' predominance of tiny particles, which take forever to dry out. This is what overwatering means but it's not your fault. It's the soil holding too much moisture, so the problem is really underdrying. This is where myths about pot size and 'likes to be rootbound' come from.

If there are no tiny particles in a pot, it will dry soooo much faster. People who lose plants because they forget to water would have a hard time with this, (and nothing to fix except to try to remember to water a little more often,) but if you're the more common 'overwatering' type, this can mean the difference between plants that stay alive vs. those that die. I used to kill plants by 'overwatering' too until learning how to fix things through the great info here at GW.

Roots can't survive sitting in soggy, dense, airless soil. To fix that, we need to give them something much more chunky, porous, airy. Many address the problem by adding a significant amount of perlite to bagged potting soils, but that's still not idea because the tiny particles are still there, with no air between them. Ideally, the tiny particles should not be in a pot at all. Dealing with it by 'not overwatering' is done successfully by millions of people, but those who like to water plants often are just going to kill them without a great mix of no tiny particles. Most plants can survive getting too dry once in a while. OTOH, getting soppy wet too often and taking forever to dry out is fatal to most.

I might recommend an alternative source of water other than tap water, such as rain, melted snow, condensate from dehumidifier or A/C, distilled. It makes a huge difference if tap water is making a plant visibly ill (which it usually does over time.) Yellow, chlorotic leaves are not attractive.