lol, excuse the typo in the title, please.

Thank you! Goodness gracious. What lovely pictures of dynamite plants.

Are you sure you're not an orchid addict waiting to bloom?

Regardless, this is mighty thoughtful of you.

Whitecat8

:) I can definitely see how people become obsessed with these plants. They're absolutely amazing! And they're possibly the one thing that's cheaper on this island than in the States. (I got a gorgeous live, blooming one at the show for about $5.) Unfortunately, I'll probably kill it pretty soon. Haven't had much luck with them in the past.

Well, which orchid did you buy? $5 is amazing. Wow.

What are your conditions - direction of direct sunlight where your orchid is, minimum indoor night temps this time of year, maximum indoor day temps this time of year? Assuming your orchid is indoors.

Folks here loooooove to help new orchid purchasers succeed. We know most folks can grow orchids, given accurate info.

Whitecat8

Thanks for the tour! The wall of the mounted Phal. schilleriana was amazing but the two Lycaste are breathtaking.

Brooke

Stunning! Thanks for posting the pictures, Good luck with your new plant! Perhaps you could pick up some tips off of this forum, so that you would have better luck with your new plant. Please stick around...

Ok, here is my $5 orchid:
{{gwi:145769}}From Okinwa

It is in a clear plastic pot, I've just got it sitting in the pottery because it looks better. It looks like the soil is dark brown on top, and peat moss on the bottom. It's pretty wet right now. We are in Okinawa, so it's very humid and doesn't get below 50 degrees, ever. Very hot summers, but we have AC. Our apartment gets tons of light. Any tips?

Raenjapan, lovely Phalaenopsis you've got. Such delicate colors.

There’s more than one way to skin a cat and certainly more than one way to grow a Phal. I hope other Forum folks will chime in.

In nature, your Phal would be rotated about 180 degrees from where it is in the pot and attached by its (mostly bare) roots to a tree trunk or branch. Probably mottled sunlight during the day. Rain and other moisture runs off the plant and don’t have a chance to collect between the leaves because they point down.

So, here we silly humans come along and try to reproduce growing conditions enough to make the plant happy enough to grow and bloom without is having tree trunks and branches in the house and water dripping onto the floor.

This is a way that’s worked for me for about 30 Phals over about 3 years, but there’s tons I don’t know.

For starters, you can wet a piece of paper towel with lemon juice concentrate or milk and wash off both sides of the leaves and the stem where they overlap, plus any roots that are sticking out from the potting medium.

This will get off any dust and residue from chemicals and fertilizers that the grower might have sprayed on their plants.

After this initial washing, you’ll probably just need to rinse the plant by rubbing leaves, stem, and protruding roots under running water every 3rd watering.

The potting medium appears to be sphagnum moss, at least on top. Can you pick up strands of it, or is it granular, like soil?

If it’s soil, let us know and we can advise on repotting.

A picture of the potting medium would be esp. helpful, if you could put a bit on the table and take a photo.

Watering: If it's "sphag," it should get quite dry between waterings. You can get a wooden BBQ skewer, stick it all the way in the sphag till it touches the bottom of the pot, and leave it there.

Once the sphag's mostly dry on top, pull out the skewer and feel the end between your thumb and index finger, being careful of splinters. If it's damp to the touch, hold off on watering. Some people put the skewer on their cheek.

If it's coolish, wait a couple of days and check again. If it's dry, then water thoroughly over the sink till water's been running out the bottom of the pot for a few seconds.

When you return the pot to its spot, make sure any extra water that drains doesn't touch the bottom of the pot, or the roots can rot.

You can put small stones or marbles in the bottom of your nice ceramic pot to keep the roots dry.

Also, each time you water, you need to get out any water in the "V" of the leaves and where they overlap on the stem. I use a square of toilet paper.

Caveat - if you water in the morning, any water in these spots will likely evaporate before evening, which is the time Phals are susceptible to "crown rot" from water in the crooks of foliage. This can be fatal, too.

To be safe, I always wick up any water, regardless of time of day.

Fertilizer - if you can find an orchid fertilizer, terrific. If not, use non-orchid fertilizer at one-fourth strength. The rule of thumb for plants in sphag is, every 3rd watering, water first w/ plain water, then immediately water thoroughly with the fertilizer water.

The next time you water, you'll "leach" to wash out the salts from the fertilizer. Otherwise, the salts can burn the roots and kill the orchid.

To leach, take the plant to the sink and let tepid water run through it to equal filling up the pot with water 4 times.

While you're there, you can hold the leaves, the stem, and any roots that are above the sphag under the water and rub them between your fingers. This will help get off any bugs that you might not be able to see plus dust and other crud.

The next time you water, use plain tepid water and water till it's running out the bottom of the pot for a couple of seconds.

Light: East light is generally good for Phals. If you can put your plant right up next to an Eastern window �" great. They like direct sun for the morning hours till about 1:00 pm.

If you have something other than an Eastern exposure, let us know, and we can make suggestions.

Temperatures: During winter, low 60s at night to mid- to upper 70s during the day are good.

(If you can put your Phal outside during the summer so Eastern sunlight’s cut about 50%, it’ll be happy. Some people use shade cloth to cut the light. You can also use a plastic lathe panel, if they’re available to you. Others may have other suggestions.)

Summer temps can be higher at night and during the day. Many people put their orchids outside once the temps have been in the mid- to upper 50s for 7-10 nights in a row.

Hope this isn’t overwhelming. You may go w/ someone else’s suggestions, but whatever you do, care for your plant will be automatic in a few weeks.

Whitecat8

Thanks, whitecat! After reading that, I can see why my previous plants kicked it so quickly :) Interesting that they hang upside down in nature. Do many orchid growers grow like that? I think it could make for an interesting greenhouse.

I've put her (for some reason I'm genderizing this plant) in an east-facing window (on that table in the corner), but I'm slightly worried that it will be too much light, because the window is huge and adjoins a huge north facing window. Here:
{{gwi:145770}}From okinawa apartment

Is that going to be too strong of light?

The soil looks like two layers, but seems to be mostly sphagnum moss with some black dirt mixed in the top half, which has become green with what looks like just regular moss. As I said, the pot is clear, flexible plastic, with a drain hole in the bottom. The roots look very green and healthy, so I'm not inclined to mess with the pot right now. I can see the moisture level--there is condensation in the pot right now, but I'll also use the bbq skewer trick.

(after all that, I decided to just take a picture:)
{{gwi:145771}}From Okinwa

The white specks are sand, I think.

I think I can get orchid fertilizer here, but the instructions will be in Japanese, which I don't read. Other than that, I'm stuck with miracle grow. I can get the orchid instructions translated if needed.

As for putting it outside, our windows are open right now, so temp is the same, and I'll enjoy it more inside.

What's going to kill me is if I get this thing to survive a whole year, then have to leave it when we move back to the States. Anyone know anything about importing plants to the US? :)

Oh, my goodness gracious. Is that the ocean??? Regardless, your apartment is gorgeous.

The white specks may be fine and may be part of Japanese culture. Just to be safe, I'd suggest that you post the picture on a new thread entitled "White specks in sphag - ok?" or some such, so more folks will take a look than will see them here, under the current title.

Absolutely critical - do you know if your water is softened? If so, you'll need to find another source of water, unfortunately. The chemicals in softened water kill orchids. One option is reverse osmosis water that's sold in Cub, Rainbow, Whole Foods, food coops here. No idea about Japan.

Looks like you've got sphagnum moss, or sphag, as the potting medium. As it ages, it turns green, first on top and then down through the pot.

Are those slits in the pot or indentations? Also, is there one "regular" hole in the bottom or 4 or more holes?

If those are indentations, and there's one drainage hole, you'd do well to look for an orchid pot or "Phal pot." In ideal greenhouse conditions, the current pot may have been fine, but orchids in that type are challenged in the real world - the potting medium can stay too wet too long.

Pix of pots, trays, and stuff in trays to keep water out of the bottom of the pot, thus preventing root rot. The pot on the left is a Phal pot w/ slits in the side. Ditto for the 2 white pots. The one on the right is a regular orchid pot w/ no slits but w/ extra holes in the bottom. Couldn't resist including the cloud horse.

{{gwi:145772}}

{{gwi:145773}}

{{gwi:145774}}

{{gwi:145775}}

Your light looks ideal, esp. w/ all the glass. Is there an overhang over your deck? That will cut the light.

Orchids don't grow in North windows - not enough light. Just to be safe, you might put your plant a couple of feet back from a full Eastern exposure and move it toward the window a few inches every 2-3 days.

If it's getting too much light, the leaves will get a reddish cast to them after awhile - usually weeks - depends. This won't hurt the plant.

What could be a bit dangerous is for the leaves to have direct sun on them past about 1 pm. You might get black sunburn spots on them that won't go away.

Note: If you decide to put the plant outside, check w/ this list 1st. Orchids have to be acclimated to direct light slowly.

The Miracle Grow fertilizer will be fine, just cut it to 1/4 strength.

As for the positioning of the plant - some people grow Phals "mounted" on a slab of dried wood or maybe cork - not sure of the best material, so they grow facing down with roots mostly exposed. The mounted plant is usually hung in front of a light source - hung in your window, in this case.

The mounted plant's rotated 90 degrees from where it is in the pot, not 180, as I said before.

If you're interested, you can sure do that. The down side is you have to water by spraying it and more often than you'd water. Also have to deal w/ it dripping dry without getting furniture & floor wet and without it being out of the window for a long time.

http://image05.webshots.com/5/3/91/40/68339140IisNfs_ph.jpg

http://www.orchidboard.com/community/attachments/article-comments/11189d1207746488-can-phalaenopsis-mounted-another-phal-stuartiana-mount.jpg

Bringing the Phal back to the States - dunno about that. A separate thread on that topic will get you some info. I'd offer to come over and plant sit!

Keep the questions coming as you run across them.

WC8

The pictures were beautiful. Thank you so much for sharing!

And yes, your apartment and its view are magnificent as well!

As usual the advice given above, is fantastic. I've been growing orchids now for a little over a year and always appreciate re-hearing the advice and seeing if there is anything extra to add to my regiment. (So, thanks Whitecat!)

Debbie

Debbie, you're welcome. More experienced folks were gracious about helping me along when I was brand new, and I love trying to pass along their generosity.

Also know that none of this is gospel. In fact, it'd be good if more people knew this thread was about a person's first orchid so they could chime in.

Maybe change the title of the thread? I'll ask.

WC8

Thanks for the advice, WC8, sorry I haven't gotten back sooner, it's been a crazy week.

Yep, the view is the ocean...it's pretty spectacular--makes up for some of the irritations of living on a tiny island overseas :)

We don't have softened water, so no worries there.

The pot has one nickle-sized hole in the bottom, but I haven't seen other types of pots here so I think I'll just cut some extra drainage holes in the existing one, and I'll elevate it as suggested.

There is a covering on the porch, and direct sunlight only lasts until maybe 10-11 am.

How long do the flowers on these guys usually last?

Thanks again,

Rachel

Rachel, thank you for the tour of the show. The photos are STUNNING! Good luck with your new Phal.

Marci

Hello Rachel, lovely pics and views I might add! I'm new to orchids also. Individual Phal flowers can last weeks, even months!! My Phal has been in flower for 50 weeks and produced well over 100 flowers on its original 2 spikes. After a 2 week rest is in flower again now on its new spikethat has 50 visible buds at the moment!! (see my recent post of a similar name). Your phal is a real stunner, lucky you, I hope it rewards you like mine has...good luck. Do you know it's name?
Gill.

Awesome thread so valuable ..beautiful place awesome pics..
I'd love to know the name of the phal that bloomed 50 weeks wow !!!!

Thank you so much info here love Japan

Rachel, I figure people respond when they can. Life happens.

Life's happening to me right now, and it'll be a couple of days before I can post again.

Sounds like you're doing fine w/ your orchid.

WC8

Hi Whitecat, I just wanted to thank for your your excellent advice. My little $5 orchid is thriving, still has all its flowers and has 5(!) new buds on it! I'm so pleased. Thanks for helping me keep it alive!

You're most welcome. It's thrilling to hear your Phal is doing well.

Apologies for not responding soon after the Feb. 15 post. Turns out there wasn't much to add at that point.

Give a holler if questions come up.

WC8