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| As mentioned in a post below, I've been worrying about the yellow spots showing up on some of my cattleya leaves. And if anyone can tell me why neither Photobucket nor this site will allow me to put 2 photos in the same post, I'd sure appreciate it! My husband used to make a living writing code for computer programs and the 2 of us just couldn't figure it out. Argh..... |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by orchidnick z9Ca (orchidnick@yahoo.com) on Thu, Feb 28, 13 at 11:38
| Those aren't spots, they are streaks, chlorophyllum streaks that is. Test for virus. Nick |
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- Posted by Greencurls Z5 (My Page) on Thu, Feb 28, 13 at 12:30
| I am glad that you posted a picture because that is not the way I was picturing the yellow spots. I am wondering if it could be mite damage or something like that. are the yellowing areas showing any signs of pitting? |
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- Posted by Greencurls Z5 (My Page) on Thu, Feb 28, 13 at 14:31
| you might want to look into the virus thing like Nick suggests. I have zero experience with viruses but those are definitely streaks. |
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| How does one test for viruses? Keep in mind I have a very simple operation here. |
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- Posted by orchidnick z9Ca (orchidnick@yahoo.com) on Fri, Mar 1, 13 at 9:08
| Check out Critter Creek Laboratory at: http://www.crittercreeklab.com/ Nick |
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- Posted by tolumniamatt 6a (My Page) on Fri, Mar 1, 13 at 21:45
| Are the streaks only occurring on that one leaf? If not, I'm thinking virus too but not sure. |
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- Posted by orchidnick z9Ca (orchidnick@yahoo.com) on Fri, Mar 1, 13 at 23:05
| It's the newest leaf, bad sign. "not sure' is a good way to put it therefore test. Please let us know the result. Nick |
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| Nick, I'm not sure the testing is for me since I have only a dozen or so catts. I imagine the cost will exceed what I usually pay for one and if the rest are goners, why throw good money after bad? I've brought most of them upstairs and tossed a couple. I want to watch them to see what develops, check the roots occasionally, etc. on the off chance this is a culture problem, not disease. I'll make sure to wash my hands after touching them so I don't bring a virus back to the others downstairs. I'm watching the downstairs orchids very carefully. I think this got away from me before I was smart enough to post a couple photos in this forum. Now I'm probably going to be paranoid about every spot on every orchid....I'm guessing the virus was present in a couple of the ones from the local garden center. Their half price off rack has many orchids crammed close together. High humidity and poor air circulation, maybe. Unfortunately this virus has affected a couple of my favs from Kawamoto Orchids. |
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- Posted by orchidnick z9Ca (orchidnick@yahoo.com) on Sat, Mar 2, 13 at 16:26
| Testing is cheap, about $4.00 per plant plus postage. If your collection is small, all the more reason to test as for a minimal loss you can make it virus free before you add more plants. Nick |
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- Posted by Greencurls Z5 (My Page) on Sun, Mar 3, 13 at 6:41
| A Catt grower in my orchid society found out that 12 out of his 36 had viruses. He said that he wish he had tested sooner. He thinks that patient zero was one of his older catts. It was sad because some of the infected ones were beautiful and did not show any signs. |
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- Posted by orchidnick z9Ca (orchidnick@yahoo.com) on Sun, Mar 3, 13 at 8:53
| Back to the endless virus discussion. I have a large collection and would not dream of testing them all for virus. Instead I follow the rule that most of us with large collections follow. If the plant shows signs of virus I discard it, don't even bother testing. With Cattleyas this is most often the case with flower color breaks. Cymbidiums, Oncidiums and other leafy plants usually show it with chlorophyll breaks along the long axis of the leaf. Ring virus with the typical circular necrotic lesion. This done, my collection looks perfect, no sign of virus. Just like in humans, these plants harbor plenty of viruses but as long as they are under control, so be it. If I tested every plant, I'm sure 1/3 of the collection would be in the trash. A friend of mine who has about 5,000 plants started testing but stopped after about 100. About 1/4 of his perfectly healthy looking plants tested positive so he threw up his hands in disgusts and after that only tested suspicious plants. Since all of these tested positive he no longer does that either. If a Catt shows color break in the flower, out it goes. Similar chloro break in Cymbidiums. Viruses are part of life, our bodies are full of them. Only when they cause problems do we need to do something about them. My daughter is a clean freak with 4 little children. Watching her prepare an apple for her little darlings is a trip. First soap and water, then veggie spray followed by polishing. Then the apple is cored, peeled and sliced into boats which are presented to her sheltered brood. I don't know why she meticulously cleaned the skin since it's discarded anyway. The other day the baby ate some doggie poo from the backyard. I think she was ready to admit him to the local ICU when she heard about it. I reassured her that he would not do it again as he did not like it very much. Back to the original subject, I would discard the plant in question, not test the rest and then go with the flow. If signs appear, out it goes otherwise leave well enough alone. Small collections can be kept virus free if one chooses and you are in a position to do so however with large collections that is virtually impossible. These comments should created a storm of protest as they are politically incorrect. There is an exception to all of this. Bean Yellow Virus in a Masdevallia and Dracula collection can have devastating consequences, I have heard of nearly entire collections of these plants being wiped out. Highly infectious and readily spread by aphids. This is the aphid season so I go to great lengths to keep aphids away from these plants. Other plants also but definitely this group. I immediately isolate any suspicious plant and test it. Went through all of this last spring but it was a false alarm, all tested negative. No complacency in this group, this nasty bug needs to be kept out of a collection. Nick |
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| Thanks for that perspective, Nick. I'm not tossing any plants that look healthy but the ones I've moved upstairs haven't been putting out new growth, so along with the yellow spots and streaks, that's probably a clincher. |
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| Before I get into my virus experience Nick how do you test for yellow bean and what are the symptoms? The only way a virus can jump from plant to plant is either by pests with aphids and thrips being the worst offenders or cross contaminating with your hands, tools or reused pots that aren't disinfected. I've had one color break virus which is easy to see and diagnose so it met Mr. Trash. This occurred very early in my Catt growing career. The other virus cases have been found using the Agdia test strips. I've tested many Catts and have only had one other test with virus present. The one with the virus did show funky foliage but the plant grew great and the blooms were gorgeous. The foliage was not the concentric circles nor the streaks seen in Vtandrea's pic. Phals are the other genra that is supposed to have rampant virus in them. Out of the many I've tested three have had virus. Two of them grew like gangbusters and one struggled for 2 1/2 years. Beside testing many of my Catts and Phals I've also tested many Bulbos because many of them get ugly foliage as they age. None of them have tested positive. I read an internet rumor where it was stated they didn't think there were any non-virus Lycaste left. I tested two Lycaste a few days ago - one I had purchased three weeks ago and one I have had for five years - both had Cymbidium virus. I haven't tossed them yet but will probably offer them to a Lycaste breeder. There was no visible evidence of virus on the foliage. This is the Lycaste purchased three weeks ago - perfect bloom and great foliage. I have well over 200 Catts, 300 Phals plus many others totaling over 1000 orchids. Right now my tests will be with the Lycaste. On the upside, if they have to leave I will have a lot of space available for many other new obsessions. Brooke |
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- Posted by orchidnick z9Ca (orchidnick@yahoo.com) on Tue, Mar 5, 13 at 8:54
| I have heard the same story about Lycaste. There are 3 of us with more than 10 Lycaste purchased within the last 1 to 2 years. Someone in my society and I got all of our plants from Cal Orchids. James insists they are virus free. A gal from a different society got some from him and a few from another vendor. All of their plants were home tested, I did not test mine after seeing the results. Bottom line: All of Cal Orchid's plants tested by these 2 people were negative and all of the plants purchased from the other vendor from one individual were positive. She said the positive plants showed physical evidence which was pretty obvious. She discarded these plants, at the same time we heard from someone up north who also has a bunch of Cal Orchid Lycaste and also found them to be virus free. Based on the above info I did not test mine which show no physical evidence of a problem. Bean Yellow can be found on many plants but apparently is most common on Masdevallia type plants. Chloro break, twisted, stunted, abnormal leaves,etc. Last year, I send samples of plants I was worried about to Critter Creek Lab but they were all negative. They tested specifically for Bean Yellow and the other common varieties. My other virus experience is rather benign, sounding from my previous long thread, I toss plants all the time. It's been 2 years since I tossed a Cymbidium, the only other plant was a couple of month ago when a Catt hybrid exhibited color break in the flower. 2 plants in 2 years I can live with, no problem. I have over 300 Masdie/Drac types and these I watch like a Hawk as other growers of these types have related horror stories about the Bean Yellow virus. Over all I don't loose any sleep over virus, it's something one can definitely live with. Nick |
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| I only have about 100 Masdies but none are expressing the signs you indicate. I wasn't aware Critter Creek could also test for yellow bean. I am sorry to report the above Lycaste was originally from Cal-Or but I'm not sure how long the grower had it before I got it. I was under the impression it wasn't very long. It popped blooms and he sold it to get a good price for it. I could also tell it hadn't been in the media but a short period of time. I do have more Lycaste that came straight from Cal-Or last fall and intend to test them in a few days. This is Lyc. guatemalensis purchased from a different source that has the most foliage showing in the pic. As you can see the leaves and the bloom do not exhibit anything but healthy and beautiful. All of my Lycaste have come from many different vendors so if I get more showing virus it will be a disaster for my collection. I also have Lycaste seedlings that are three years out of flask and if they are virus infected, I've wasted a lot of space and time. Many of the mature Lycaste are also bald so I must wait until new growths appear and then get age on them. It takes time for the virus to appear in the newest growth. I've imported some species straight from South America and it will be interesting to see if any of them are infected. I don't get whacked about virus, deal with it when it comes up but have a few I wouldn't part with regardless of the outcome. Brooke |
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