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Cym Bud blast ideas?

Posted by socalkc_2010 10 (My Page) on
Tue, Mar 30, 10 at 16:33

we have grown Cym orchids as a hobby for over 20 years and and since they are so easy we have had great luck with blooming and growth. This year we are stumped by a chronic bud blast on the same orchid two years in a row. We bought the orchid three years ago (in blooming stage) and have had great flower spikes but the buds never open. The plant has been in the same location and has not moved since we got it, it is right along side with all our other blooming cym orchids. We have never had a bud blast experience up until last year and it is so disappointing, as this orchid is a beautiful chocolate brown....when it blooms.

any ideas?

thanks in advance
KC


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Cym Bud blast ideas?

When Cymbids gets too warm during a certain phase of bud development they'll blast the buds. You can't control outside temp if gets hot during spring but certainly avoid taking them inside for display until the flowers are open.

Nick


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RE: Cym Bud blast ideas?

Thanks Nick,

Do you think that some varieties are more susceptible than others? It seems so weird that so far, it only happens to this one particular Cymbidium.

KC


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RE: Cym Bud blast ideas?

I had blast on one plant every year when I was in So. Calif. I moved to Mo. cooler here and it did not blast. I think you are on to something regarding some being more inclined to do that .. Gin


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RE: Cym Bud blast ideas?

A recent speaker identified one particular species being prone to bud blast related to warm temp. I don't remember which it is other than that it has greenish flowers.

Nick.


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RE: Cym Bud blast ideas?

I have a NoID cym that only flowers in the shadiest and coolest spot in my backyard. It gets maybe 2 or 3 hours of direct sunlight early in the morning and then full shade for the rest of the day. When I tried to flower it in spots where most of my cyms flower very well, the flower spikes didn't even develop properly. So, maybe moving your cym to a spot where it receives less light might fix the problem.
Another issue I find is that getting the young pseudobulbs to mature as quickly as possible is also important, since it is the new pseudobulbs that are largely responsible for the flowering. If they don't mature over spring and summer and develop flowerspikes over winter, then they will flower the following season but will develop flowerspikes too early when the night temps are still too warm. In this case, it might be beneficial to use a high nitrogen fertilizer when the new pseudobulbs appear and switch to a high potassium fertilizer in early summer to initiate flower spike development.
Hope this helps.


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