A very detailed FAQ is in the link. At the local orchid society where we have two growers with Phalaenopsis houses there is a definite Spring flowering peak. Though they exhibit flowering plants every month of the year.
Depends to some extent I suppose on the makeup of a particular Phalaenopsis.

Here is a link that might be useful: FAQ on getting Phalaenopsis to bloom

Wow, thank you for that link! I didn't see that. That's super helpful. We've definitely had some warm days recurring even though it's mid-fall already... so that might explain it. Thanks so much.

What color green are the leaves? A rich dark green is not enough light. Pale light green could be too much light. What about fertilizers? What do you use and how often? Also it could be right on schedule and will initiate in a month. Phals can be fooled to bloom at the convenience of the grower. They trick the plants with artificial weather and light conditions. So your first bloom might not be ready yet. A lot of variables.

Shavedmonkey, to be clear light pale green is generally indicative of a good amout of light and should never be discouraged (purple even, in some species. Why people continue to think purple means to back off the light is beyond me). Too much light is either bleaching (turning white) or burning.

Thanks for the responses! Over the last year I've ended up with about 6 of these plants and I have never observed them change the color of their leaves, even when significantly changing how much light they get. I don't know whether I'm not observant enough or whether the changes haven't been drastic enough.

In any case, this particular phal's leaves are the darkest of all of the ones that I have. They have always been this way. The new leaf is practically entirely purple and the leaf that fully grew out just before this one is green on top and purple on the underside (it was entirely purple while growing too).

If the color could tell people something, I can try to take a picture with some other green items in it for comparison. I wouldn't call the color a "dark" green. If a lime were the color of the leaves, it would be very close to ripe but not there yet.

Also, I fertilize this guy with a Miracle Gro orchid food fertilizer type thing (the directions require a quarter teaspoon to a gallon of water), every time I water except the first watering of the month I just give it regular water.

terpguy,
Before the leaves bleach or demonstrate sunburn, I take action. I find that after the fact will allow meaningful damage. Perhaps I should say too light of a green. Nonetheless leaf color is an excellent litmus test on proper lighting. A dark green leaf has the appearance of health and well being but the plant is saying "more light please". They can still bloom that way. Just not optimum.

I have never used miracle grow orchid feed. I do use orchid plus. I like it because it has no urea among other reasons. I also use orchid plus bloom booster 4 times a year. In addition I mix with the fertilizer maxi crop, a root stimulant. And I add a supplement of magi-cal. If necessary, I'll add insecticides.

I have noticed on my Phals that they need to grow 4 fully developed leaves before they put out a spike and the more leaves they grow the more spikes there are. Just an observation...

terpguy,
An afterthought. You are in zone 7 and I am in zone 10. Maybe we would both reverse our thinking if we reversed our locations. It is easy down here to cause sunburn. A morning sun with bright afternoon shade here in the summer will provide some very nice vanda blooms. An equator thing?

Another point. I have found white flowering Phals have light green, pale leaves when properly lit. Dark purple flowering Phals will have darker leaves with purple tinges when properly lit. I do not get purple tinges on white Phals (my favorite).

Jane

Thanks all for the messages! (If anyone has other insights please post them, I will keep checking this thread!)

I compared this phal with another one I have, which used to be much lighter in color... and now they are the same. I think this one that I want to get to bloom has gotten lighter. So I am going to start paying more attention to the leaf color...

I moved it to a location where it will get a little more light (including some direct light in the early morning). It is a small move. I will post here if I see differences.

After reading the FAQ link in the first reply, I think it MIGHT be temperature. It may have been simply too warm, particularly in this south-facing room with big windows, which gets a bit of a greenhouse effect even with the windows open. I am going to invest in an indoor thermometer...

Cheers Jane, good point.

SM, too much means excess and results in damage. Green in any shade can never be construed as indicating injury. It then makes no sense on its face to say green--even a light lime green--indicates excess, savvy?

Let's be clear, we aren't talking dark leaves from low light in this discussion of light shades of green. Separate issue.

This post was edited by terpguy on Mon, Nov 11, 13 at 23:23

I agree with terpguy. I have various Phals which flower different colors. Mine get fairly high light in Florida. I like the spikes to grow straight up so they sit in full sun with about 50% shade cloth.

The large white flowered Phal has pale, lime green leaves. No burn or signs of stress. I have a light pink Equestris which has light green leaves. I have a dark purple Phal with dark purplish leaves (2 spikes), then one unknown which my guess will be purple or dark pink because the leaves are dark like my other purple.

All these Phals are in the same light. Two are spiking, the other two are growing leaves.

I have burned my share of Phals over the years. I know sunburn. Arthurm's link is a good one. If you have the temperature drop then they will spike when they are ready. Probably after they finish growing the new leaves. Some Phals are spring bloomers.

Jane

Based on my experience for winter/spring blooming phals..

Most winter/spring blooming phals need a couple of weeks of an @15 degree temp drop between day and night temps in the fall. Notice I said a 15 degree difference, not down to 50 or 55, so if you normally run at 75-80 during the day, 60-65 at night should induce spikes on winter/spring bloomers. They also need enough light through rest of the year to get good healthy growth to support spikes, good light for a month or so in the fall ain't enough. And finally, an overall good fert/watering routine to keep things healthy and growing strong.

Also a lot of species orchids/primary hybrids bloom in the summer, so you need to understand what you have and when it normally spikes/blooms.

I agree with Jane in that it looks like it is dehydrated and the roots don't look too bad. Try keeping it damper or watering a little more often.

DANGER WARNING!!!!!: In a dry office environment I've found that leaving a little water (1/2") in the cache pot for a day or so seems to really help in keeping moisture around the roots. Be VERY VERY careful here though, be sure to drain the cache pot after a day or so and never let it sit in water for more than 1 day.

Good luck,

Bob

Sometimes growers manipulate orchids' lighting so they'll bloom out of season. If this happened with yours, it could take it awhile to find its own rhythm. The new leaves and roots are a good sign.

The FAQs have info, too.

WhiteCat8

Here is a link that might be useful: Professional Grower's Notes on Blooming Phalaenopsis/Phals