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frugal organics

Posted by gratefulgardener3300 nepa 5 (My Page) on
Sun, Feb 22, 09 at 16:58

I want to be as organic and frugal as I can. I compost and use some manures (cow and horse) that I get free. I want to fertilize but don't want to spend the money on store-bought ferts. Can you good people give your tips and recipes to help my soil and plants cheaply, or better yet without spending a dime?

I'm handy and willing to work a bit harder in order to save some cash. I built a bat house to catch it's droppings and I think I'm getting some bunnies but I want to do/learn more than just manure.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: frugal organics

grateful: I suggest you cover all bare soil with a mulch of shredded leaves, and use winter cover crops to the maximum feasible extent. Very cheap generic mineral sources are sea minerals and granite meal; these contain all the macro and micros between them. And always include legumes in your rotation and cover crops. Also, make compost tea in a pail; it boosts the biological activity in the soil wonderfully. Leaves and straw bales are available free in the fall on people's kerbs. Make you own bonemeal -- see the post on this. This said, I lash out on a bottle of fish and kelp emulsion for plants that are looking a bit peaked. Regards, Peter.


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RE: frugal organics

A bag of organic fertilizer costs about $45. The ingredients are usually ground up grains like corn, soy, flax, wheat, and sometimes alfalfa and cottonseed. You can go to the feed store and get those same ingredients in 50-pound bags for $10 or less.

Spoiled milk makes a great foliar spray or soil drench. You can dilute it (3 ounces of milk per gallon) and spray it or pour it on. The milk feeds the microbes living on the outside of the plants.

Usually you can get free horse manure from a stable. One of the old regulars here, CaptainCompostAL, started a compost business based on all the free horse manure he could carry home from a local vet.


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RE: frugal organics

If you have a strong stomach, you can make your own fish emulsion. I get fish entrails and heads from local fishermen, put them in a five gallon bucket with a lid, cover with water, close up tight and let it sit for a few months. Here comes the Belly Of Steel part ~ strain it before you use it. This is potent stuff, so dilute it a LOT before you use it the first time (about ten parts water to one fish emulsion), then watch what your plants do and adjust accordingly.


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RE: frugal organics

PEE ON IT!!!


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RE: frugal organics

  • Posted by paulns NS zone 6a (My Page) on
    Sun, Feb 22, 09 at 20:01

I've started throwing liquids straight on the soil all fall and winter instead of putting them through the composting process or pouring them down the drain: pasta water, yeast/dregs from brewing wine or beer, leftover teas and coffee, and off course pee. Keep a kind of swill bucket, toss it on the mulch, soil or snow. Mulch on the soil, and good OM level in it, catch and hold the nutrients better. What I thought of as byproducts or waste products I think of now as free fertilizer.

Also keeping trash cans of mineral and nutrient rich teas like comfrey, nettle, dandelion, yarrow leaves brewing in summer. You can grow a patch of these perennials easily for this purpose, free after the initial purchase of seeds or seedlings. Careful to keep them in bounds though.


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RE: frugal organics

If you compost and add that to your soil and mulch that soil with those deciduous tree leaves that fall every year (unless you are someplace they do not grow) you will not need to spend money on "fertilizers", after a period of time if you get sufficient levels of that organic matter into your soil. After 35 plus years of adding compost and mulching with shredded leaves I have to be careful how much of each I add since my soil pH, which was 5.7 when we first moved here, now tends to be 7.2 and the P and K levels are in the high optimal range. All the animal manures have been composted before being added to the planting beds, never have I put uncomposted manure there.


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RE: frugal organics

Anyways, I think this topic is important considering the economic situation currently going on today. Not everyone can afford expensive potting mixes, fertilizers, or soil amendments.


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RE: farugal organics

Btw, Peter, where can you buy or find granite meal or any other granite product?


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RE: frugal organics

Btw, Peter, where can you buy or find granite meal or any other granite product?

Volcanite is one granite product.


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RE: frugal organics

Can you usually find volcanite in gardening centers or nurseries?


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takadi: I don't know if I can mention brands, but here goes: Fertrell provides 50 lb. bags. I get them at my local organic feed and seed store. This is just plain old granite dust, nothing special like rare earths. You might also get rock dust from any monument/gravestone maker; it would have many of the minerals in granite dust or basalt dust. Or look up the remineralize-the-earth website. Between granite meal and sea minerals you should be able to get most all the traces -- 60 and more. Sea minerals come from Sea Agri (sp?); their ads are in Acres USA every month. Regards, Peter.


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RE: frugal organics

Perhaps you can find a place that sells materials by the cubic foot like Silver Creek Materials in Fort Worth.


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RE: frugal organics

I can find Volcanite everywhere in San Antonio. Even Ace Hardware carries it. However, Volcanite is packaged in San Antonio. You might want to call first. Ask for Volcanite and tell them it is from Garden-Ville.

And by all means, please mention brands, store names, and locations. That's a lot more helpful than beating around the bush.


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RE: frugal organics

Well, one really inexpensive way to provide a lot of valuable nitrogen fertilizer cheaply is to grow a patch of alfalfa, and then harvest it two to four times a year (depending upon climate and growing season), and apply that as green manure, hay, or compost to your garden beds.

A pound of alfalfa seed can be had for under $15 with shipping, often cheaper. This will plant a very large area, something like 1/4 acrea if properly spaced out. Not everyone, of course, has the space to do this sort of project, but if you do, its a good way to get a lot of high nitrogen organic matter for your gardens.


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RE: frugal organics

"Green Manure" will build up your soil too, especially legumes. But ANY annual plant can be planted, allowed to grow a while and NOT GO TO SEED, then turned under to enrich the soil.
The Green Manure does not always have to be grown where it will be used either, you can mow or "cut-and-come-again" on one plot to add to the soil elsewhere.


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RE: frugal organics

you can mow or "cut-and-come-again" on one plot to add to the soil elsewhere.

Hay, IOW. Mulch hay is a pretty cheap way to to just that, for those that don't have the time, energy, or space to cut their own by hand. There is typically a lot of grass-seed in hay but if you pile it on beds very thick for the winter the spring sprouted grass is not well established and quite easily turned under. I usually pull the partially broken down mulch off the beds and throw it in the compost or made windrows of it between the crop rows. One can probably get that 1/4 acre's worth of grass for under $20 if you get spoiled hay.


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As a self-proclaimed miser I can tell you that there are many places to source nutrients at low or no cost. I source leaves from a local municipality. I used to pick up bagged leaves left curbside before I arranged for the municipality to haul them to me at no cost. I developed a contact with a local arborist who dumps wood chips at my property. I scanned the media for people looking to rid themselves of manures. Before I owned a pickup truck I would haul manure in trash bags in the back seat and trunk of my old Dodge Dart. As I developed a reputation as an organic Fred Sanford people began to offer me their spoiled hay or rotted straw and often hauled it to me to rid themselves of that waste. If you see a potential source of organic material don't be shy about asking for it. The worst that can happen is that the owner might say no.


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RE: frugal organics

There's an idea - instead of driving to a store to buy green manure seed, or ordering it by mail, forage for wild seed and grow that. Some wild legumes here, for instance, are lupines and beach peas....I know people who've planted crown vetch for erosion control...Is it worth it, or even possible, to collect seed from clovers like crown vetch and red clover?

This sounds ridiculously time and labour intensive but has anybody tried it?


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RE: frugal organics

If you buy organic stuff packaged in small quantities its probably one of the most expensive ways to garden, especially if you order online and have to pay shipping on top of everything else. One way to get stuff cheap is buy unpackaged in bulk by the truckload. I buy really nice horse manure/sawdust compost, finely screened, for $8 a cubic yard right from a horse stable that also is a certified compost maker, plus $35 delivery. I wonder how many of the people on this board figure in the cost of their gas when they go around picking up small quantities.
Another way to save is look for broken bags of what you are looking for at big box stores like Home Depot and Lowes or at garden supply places. Depending on your luck, bargaining ability, and who is marking the stuff down, you can often get stuff for half to an eigth of what the bags would normally cost, and sometimes less than five percent of the contents are missing due to the tear. However sometimes they will make you take everything on a pallet, all or nothing.


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RE: frugal organics

***Posted by kimmsr 4a/5b-MI (My Page) on Mon, Feb 23, 09 at 6:48

If you compost and add that to your soil and mulch that soil with those deciduous tree leaves that fall every year (unless you are someplace they do not grow) you will not need to spend money on "fertilizers", after a period of time if you get sufficient levels of that organic matter into your soil. After 35 plus years of adding compost and mulching with shredded leaves I have to be careful how much of each I add since my soil pH, which was 5.7 when we first moved here, now tends to be 7.2 and the P and K levels are in the high optimal range. All the animal manures have been composted before being added to the planting beds, never have I put uncomposted manure there.***

Are you saying that the pH went up as a result of all the organic matter over the years?


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RE: frugal organics

Hmm. Frugal. Frugality. I WAS FRUGALMAN!

Composting and collecting opl (other people's leaves... use whatever euphemism you like) are superhero-like socially beneficial activities. You save landfill space, educate your neighbors, increase biodiversity, provide habitats, enhance topsoil, enhance greenery, and thereby pull CO2 out of the air, etc. Like superhero activities, they also take time from your personal life, which can be expensive in non-monetary terms.

Anyone could save a lot of time and trouble by ordering up a dump truck load of whatever. I did not do that. Somehow it would not have been mine, monetary sacrifice notwithstanding. Even taking bags of leaves from someone else's tip or curb involves a sacrifice and personal statement beyond opening a wallet or purse. There is certainly no need to buy anything for your garden.

True frugality is serendipity: Minimal funds AND Minimal effort. Use what you have and take the low hanging fruit. I think 20-30 gallons of human urine and 5 cubic meters of compost a year are within anyone's capabilities. That alone could sustain a decent garden. Using cover crops and green manures in off seasons would eliminate the need for fertilizers, I would bet. I am pretty sure that academic studies have shown that... even for moderate to heavy feeding crops.

I think nobody mentioned it above, but saving bean, pea, and mustard seed is easy as falling off a log. There are your green manures right there. For free. You can have those cakes and eat em too. That is frugality. I bought some small seeds intended for sprouting ... for salads... they were very cheap crucifers, so they kept me going until I built up seed stocks. Vetch and clover are so common where I live that I probably should not have bothered. What is cheaper than weeds?

I have a nice garden built up almost entirely from compost (opl, weeds, garden residue, kitchen waste, wood ash, human urine, wood chips, sawdust, shredded cardboard), with smaller amounts of vermicompost, chicken manure, pond scum, sod, and disused potting soil. I will likely switch from OPL to green manures because of the increased use of opl biomass for community purposes in my area and because I want to spend more time with my family... even though being a superhero was fun while it lasted.


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RE: frugal organics

I have been away and saw this topic resurface. I'm surprised that nobody, including myself, has mentioned getting free coffee grounds from Starbucks or any other coffee retailer. Coffee grounds have about the same protein (fertility) as corn meal. You can apply under any plant or on the lawn directly at the rate of 10-20 (dry) pounds per 1,000 square feet.


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RE: frugal organics

gratefullgardener3300, I would start with an understanding of what your garden's soil needs are, and invest your time getting the things that are needed most.

For micronutrients; rock dust from granite countertop companies.

For sources of lignin; tree service companies.

For phosphorus; produce culls from food stores.

Clay soil conditioner; coffee grounds, in moderation.


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RE: frugal organics

This is a great thread! Let's keep it going. If only I'd known some of these things over a year ago!! Could've saved a lot of money. Time and labor, I've got plenty of. Cash? Not in these economic times. I think gardening organically is frugal, as nothing goes to waste, especially with composting. Anyone else have some organic, frugal tips on gardening? Seed saving, or anything?


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RE: frugal organics

Hey toogreen, what exactly is OPL?


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RE: frugal organics

OPL = Other People's Leaves


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RE: frugal organics

For novice2009 and all novices.
I read some books and got all excited about gardening before I actually started doing it. Some of the best advice that I got at that time was to try your hardest to use ONLY what is in the garden.
Failing that, use what your household produces.
Failing that, use only what others do not want, basically recycling.
Failing that, just buy as little as possible.
See how that fits hand in glove with reduce, reuse, recycle?

All of the vegetables I can use this year will be produced for an out of pocket cost of less than 30 dollars, and that is because I panicked and bought some plants instead of waiting for my seedlings. I also need a new handle for an important tool.

Everything you need is available near you. Scrap lumber or stones or bricks or cardboard for raised beds. Compost from kitchen waste and leaves and weeds. Existing dirt, preferably topsoil, from somewhere.
Other free stuff you could add could be anything. Shredded paper. Cardboard. Sticks and twigs. PET bottles. Human urine. Wood ash. Chalk dust. Dead animals. Cotton rags.
Get seeds from other people's flowers. Always ask. They will laugh at you. Get seeds from foods you eat. Take cuttings from plants.

It is a handicap that makes gardening extremely interesting for me. Frankly, money is not the problem, but I have relatives who have spent more to grow a few tulips than I have spent on my whole garden.

I use old planking with paint peeling off for raised beds. If I used new lumber, I would think of dead trees. I make my own compost... all of it. I buy poultry manure in big bags when it is on sale. Maybe five bags at a time. And I used to drive around in a truck at four in the morning snagging people's bagged up leaves and weeds. (I counted all of the bags of leaves and weeds I have saved from disposal in landfills. How many? More than 600.) I reuse old plastic pots and planters until they fall apart. I use tin cans.

Start today with what you have.


 
 

 

 


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