The stuff works for some plants but not for others as it only colonizes specific plants. It is found in nature in top soils all over the place.
Here's the datasheet for it from Preimere Horticulture. PH adds this to their Pro Mix BX which I'm a big fan of for starting plants.

Here is a link that might be useful: Data sheet for Mycorise Pro

I have tried many of the Mychorizzal fungi products on the market and they just don't work.

Most of the species are found in forests and grow with trees. Virtually all of them do well in highly organic, moist soils with even temps (think forest floor).

They just don't make the transition to veggies or most ornamentals well, particularly in a typical garden setting.

At the end of every season I have used them I have dug up plants to see if any fungi had colonized the roots and the answer was always no.

Interestingly I did find cases of symbiotic fungi on plant roots, but that was in a ground bed, heavily mulched with wood chips on the north side of my house (shady). I didn't apply any fungal spores there, they must have been on the wood chips I used or got there some other way.

It is another case of people selling us something we don't need and won't get to survive unless conditions are right and if conditions are right they will be there without our intentional introduction.

Hi justaguy2,

Perhaps you had bad luck. There are plenty of controlled studies that show improved growth in vegetables inoculated with Glomus intraradices. Many studies are carried out by Universities in their agricultural departments.
Just google it and you'll find all the info you need.
Perhaps the soil at your location is especially inhospitable to the fungi? It's also important to note that colonization takes many weeks and results are seen toward the end of growth.

Here's an example:

Here is a link that might be useful: Abstract of study of effects of Glomus intraradices on hot peppers.

Organic gardners are as susceptible to consumerism as anyone. I find Mycorhizol products a nice sign of increased demand for organic products but a product that I feel we can survive without. Someone who already gardens organicaly using soil improving techniques probably will see little benefit from this type of product.
The commercialization of organic products has gone insane.
Compost tea brewers. Myco innocullants, miracle grow organic products. you name it the organic gardener is known to pay a premium for their products.
IF their is a way to extract money from us, their is someone trying to figure out a way to market it.

I beleiv3e that composting and mulching will do much in the establishment of beneificial fungi. Why are we in such a hurry for immediate results? I thought organic gardners thought differntly.

I didn't want Mycorise. I wanted organic potting soil. All the brands at Menard's contained Mycorise. If it doesn't hurt and is organic, I guess I don't care.

Hatchjon,

If you are a believer in commercial mychorizzal products would you be interested in my left over packets of fungal spores for the cost of postage? They are from Fungi Perfecti. I was going to just toss them out.

I also have some seaweed extract I tested last year with no results. I can put that in the same package if you (or anyone else) is interested.

I have been using Mycorhizonal fungi for about 10 years now. I once ran a little experiment where I used a MF product called Mini Plug in 50/50 peat and vermiculite for potting soil and a batch of straight 50/50 peat and vermiculite potting soil. I planted 12 seeds each of tomatoes, peppers and eggplant in each mix for a total of 72 seeds. After 8 weeks the Mini Plug seedlings showed a large increase of root mass and top growth. At 8 weeks you could see the mycorhizonal nodes on the roots also.
If you decide to use Mycorhizonal fungi products, make sure the product contains a blend of fungi for your intended use ex. garden plants, flowers, turf or trees. The package also should have a use by date, the shelf life is only about two years. It also has a recommended storage temperature so buy from a reputable dealer. A good product will cost you about $100.00 per pound.
John

Mycorrhizal fungi naturally occur in soils with adequate levels of organic matter. They will not live in soils without adequate levels of organic matter. These fungi are plant specific and those that will grow on tomatoes will not grow on the roots of Brassicas or roses. As a general rule of thumb purchasing any product containing Mychorrizal fungi is a waste of your money.

I have seen first hand the dramatic effects that mycorise additions can have on seedling development. Commercial growers use these products to both provide growth-enhancing effects, and to help protect the plants from detrimental fungi. You definitely need to get the right ones for the plants you are growing; some of the commercial mixes contain a variety of species which will work on many common plants. In addition, the mycorise are fairly sensitive to temperature extremes in storage; if they get too hot, they die. While it is true that many of these mycorise live in established organic soils, they may not be in there in sufficient quantity to have the desired effects. I have seen commercial growers with quite good organic soils benefit from the use of mycorise. You need to pick the crop, to insure the added growth is worth the cost of application. You can tell from the top growth and season production that the effect was present; much of the root effect needs microscopes to identify. I suggest the experiment John mentions above for those interested. I have specifically looked at the growth help it provides peppers. The pepper growth was so much better with treatment than without that I was amazed. What was even more impressive, however, was that my fruit production from the treated plants was significantly higher as well. While good products in this class are not cheap, I see them as worth the money if you want the most you can obtain out of the garden. They more than pay back their cost in the right applications. Also note that it is critical that the organic matter be present in the soil, otherwise the mycorise are a waste of time and money. With an organic soil, however, I think you will be pleased with the results. The link below has a section where you can investigate specific plants for the right application.
Renais

Here is a link that might be useful: Mycorrihizae info

What Kimmsr doesn't realize is that majority of soil are ruined for the most part from the usage of chemicals. Kimmsr's words aren't worth the gold these days.

It is rare but I am in total agreement with Kimmsr on this matter. Marketing is marketing, call me a cynic. I think mycorrhizae are indeed important. I just happen to also believe they are there in our soils properly adapted to the conditions in each of our individual soil types.
In Sterile soils the innoculant may indeed be neccesary to begin population but perhaps the fungi are ill adapted to your ph or your soil type. But we are on the organic gardening forum and anyone who practices organic techniques is going to have a living soil in a matter of time. Such important organisms are unique in that they have survival mechanisms and the ability to spread without our help when the conditions are right.
Worms travel, birds poop, the wind blows. So life goes.

Over 70% of mycorrhizal relationships are not ectomycorrhizal (forming a sheath on the outside of the root hair) but endomycorrhizal...also known as VAM (for vasicular-arbuscular mycorrhizae) That relationship can be observed via dissection and a microscope.

Endomycorrhizae are much more common to herbaceous plants (as well as woodies) but it's important to note that there are thousands of species of mycorrhizae. They tend to be somewhat specific about 'whom' they will form their beneficial relationships with. Many of our veggies depend upon these VAM, rather than the more visible ectomycorrhizae.

Understanding how to use these inoculants is important. So is the when, where, and why! ;-)

The applications that I have seen typically result in remarkable results. I've also been fortunate enough to have participated in a good, thorough study with one of the world's leading experts of mycorrhizae. It's pretty amazing to see something with your own eyes.

Oh, I meant to add that plants within the brassicaceae do not host mycorrhizae, period. Just so you know, kimmsr.

"Many of our veggies depend upon these VAM, rather than the more visible ectomycorrhizae."

Key word "depend". If these vegetables "depend" on these VAM, then how did they ever grow them without purchased inoculants? They must be present in productive garden soil is what I deduce. It is also my contention that poor or sterile soils in rehab will benefit more form an inoculant than a soil that has a good soil food web as the term is used. In container culture this may also be beneficial. I think it is a great "specialty" product. But for the average organic gardener the dollar would be better be spent on mulch or soil amendments.

I give soils and soil organisms more credit for their resiliency than most I guesse.

Mycorrhizal fungus develops in the top few inches of soil by the process of cold composting. Tree/plant litter falls on the ground, cold composts and makes more soil which is suitable for MF development. Some plants, such as grapes and beech, are very dependent on MF, others are not. The method of hot composting does not encourage MF except when it is spread and then mulched over with organic mulches such as shredded leaves, wood chips or hay which will cold compost on top of the finished and cooled hot composted soil.

The savy vegetable gardener would be wise to use the Ruth Stout method which will quickly encourage the growth of abundant MF. Never till, cover the veggie garden with hay or straw mulch which is only disturbed enough to plant crops. All vegetable litter is tossed on top of the straw to cold compost. The straw is replenished yearly. This means that each discarded vegetable part is cold composting and is encouraged to grow the type of MF necessary for its health.

Ornamental, tree and shrub beds really should be mulched every fall with the shredded leaves falling on your property. Again...the leaves will cold compost providing the right types of MF for your plant needs. When in doubt as to the right soil practices, check out Mother Nature's blueprint. Manufacture your own MF specific to your plant needs by cold composting that which grows on your own property.

Has been proven by the US Forrest Service to help certain types of trees (AKA Woody Plants) Semi woody plants have only been "Proven" by sellers

Bio Vam worked at the cost of $52.50 for 6 tomato plants

Hi byron,

You should check your facts. Many studies have been done by entities other than companies trying to make a buck. I posted a link to one earlier in the thread that dealt with hot pepper plants. A google search will reveal many studies done by University Ag departments.
Mycorise Pro comes in the mix I use for starting seeds and growing seedlings (Pro Mix BX) at no extra charge. I buy it at Blue Seal for $27.00 for a 3.8 Cubic feet compressed bale. The price of this medium has actually decreased by ~$1.50 over the last 5 years or so...and it didn't have Mycorise Pro in it before.

Here is a link that might be useful: My Blog: The Wicked Good Garden

Make your soil into a good healthy soil and as the Soil Food Web grows these Mycorrhizal fungi will establish themselves with no need for you to toss your money out the window for something that probably will not be of benefit anyway. Keep in mind that that phrase, "If it sounds too good to be true it probably is" is valid.

I found a photo of the tomatoes in my little experiment mensioned in the above post. The photo was taken 8 weeks after germination. All the tomatoes were planted in 4 differant gardens my sons, daughters, a friends and my garden. The mycor tomatoes produced much better in all four gardens.


John

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John

Thanks much for posting your work jbest. There are always people who are quick to tell you why things won't work but it sure looks like mycorrhizae worked for you. I am looking forward to giving it a shot this year.