Ok, here is why i wanted to post:
I have been tweaking an organic fertilizer recipe for my raised veggie garden. I just wanted to see if anyone had any problems/comments on how to improve this mixture. I am trying to perfect this, and it seems to be working well so far.
By the way i have sandy loam with quite a bit of compost worked in. My PH is not constant in my beds, because of different var.s growing, but my normal soil PH before ammendment was very acid ( i cleared out many vaccinium, cornus, and pine species when i made my garden)

I use 1 batch per 100 or so square ft and this recipe makes about a gallon.

Nitrogen Sources:

3 cups fish meal (10-4-0) fast release
3 cups cottonseed meal (6-2-1) medium release
1 cup Crab Meal (5-1-0) + nematode suppression + lowers PH. slow release

Phosphorus Sources:

1 cup bone meal (6-9-0) fast release
1 cup Rock Phosphate (0-3-0) slow release

Potassium Sources:

1 cup kelp meal (1-0-8) fast release
1 cup alfalfa meal (3-1-2 + vitamins and trace minerals) medium release
2 cups Greensand (0-0-3 + many trace minerals) slow release

Soil Activity sources:

1 cup Limestone (lowers PH to compensate for acidiy of seed meal) medium release
2 cups Vermicompost (active fungi/bacteria + trace elements + humic acids) fast release

optional 1 handfull of fulvic acid powder

Yeah, there a lot of ingredients, but most can be bought in bulk. If bought dry, they have good shelf life, besides the vermicompost, which could be optional i suppose. (By optional i mean that you need to get a worm bin already, haha)

I look forward to any and all input.
Thanks and have a blessed day!

My soil is sandy, but i cleared the woods and burned the trees in a pile where my garden is now. The soil is now 6.5-6.8 and in my asparagus bed is 7.5.

I have enriched the garden for the past 2 years with about 900 pounds (200 square feet double dug raised beds of composted cow manure/with hardwood fines, 100-150 pounds of REALLY old leaf mold that was barely acid. A couple of big bales of peat moss the first year. 50 pounds of rabbit manure 40+pounds of vermicompost. Untold sheets of newspaper.
The site was pretty barren and I had a rich o horizon of about 3-4 inches, but barren and sandy beneath that. I enrich it with all I've got, but the sand leaches rather quickly

The only NPK tests that i have used read only: high, medium, low, very low.
Nitrogen is Medium, phosphorus is medium, potassium is medium/low. I have no calcium or magnesium tests, but i need to do that soon any recommendations on a better testing method?

Thanks for the input!

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
to learn more about your soil and what it needs. Simply throwing a lot of "stuff" at your soil may not do what you think needs to be done and may be more a waste of your time, energy, and money then the soil test would be.

You need to know what your soil is lacking before you can provide it. The home tests that read low/OK,high are pretty much useless. Get a real test done (check with your county extension service) and that will give you an accurate picture of what is and isn't in the soil.

To give you an example, my own soil has adequate to high levels of everything. It's pH is 6.8. Knowing this the only thing I do for ground grown plants is add organic matter every now and then and provide soybean meal for extra N for some plants such as veggies. Nothing else is needed.

Actually after I thought about it, i am actually closer to 1400 pounds of compost counting some bagged humus/manure that i forgot about. I am really doing all i can do on the adding of organics. This will just take time i suppose. I am actively trying to make 3 more pallet compost bins and dig another worm bed, and it should be a month or so before that gets done. I am also a beginner at making compost teas. My soil smells great! still too sandy though. I have maybe 3 worms in a shovelful, but some things that i have read say that sandy soil, while needed for worms digestion, will harm them in large amounts. any thoughts on that?

I knew that i would get called out for having so many ingredients on my fertilizer. Keep in mind i am a biologist and i like to play with stuff! I am that guy who would love to graft a pineapple onto a crabapple rootstock if God would let me. :) I was just trying to come up with something balanced to supplement the organic material and give me micronutrients that i don't even know if i am lacking in without an accurate test...

I guess i owe it to my garden to get it the test it deserves... Your "no target" analogy is spot on, and i will get this done immediately.

Thanks for actually reading my long post and setting me on a better path.
Shawn

My soil is young and sandy and it leaches quickly. I have always had to add alkalines to my soil so far. I actually add even more lime to my soil to get it where it is now. 2 of the beds were built where a woodpile was burned, and the soil was still too acid. Blueberries thrive here,. The approximate acidity of the native soil is 4.5-5.5!! I have to work at it...

Thanks for the interest and comments. More later.

Contact your state universities USDA Cooperative Extension Office in your county and inquire about having a good, reliable soil test done and dig in with these simple soil tests,
1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

WHY GOD WHY?

How many times do I have to say, that is NOT structure. AAAAAAAAARRRRRGhHHHHHHhhhhhhhhHhHhh!

...by the way my garden was Incrdible last year. I am on my way to doubling my raised beds to about 3000 square feet this year. Thanks to all of those who helped me out. I REALLY appreciate it.