Spider mites usually are present in numbers that need control if the plant is kept too dry, they don't seem to like humidity much. A sharp water stream and then regular misting of the foliage can help reduce the population enough so predators can keep the rest under control. Look at the link for more indformation.

Here is a link that might be useful: Our Garden Pests, Spider Mites

I agree - water is the best control. Maintaining adequate humidity by spraying down with water periodically (or regular misting of houseplants or a visit to the shower), will keep spider mites at bay.

And, just for what its worth, here is an example of the above being good advice. I have two dwarf alberta spuce trees. One already replaced with another. I don't use chemicals much and had kind of resigned myself to just replacing both of them if they died back again.

This spring I had a family occaision where folks where going to come into town. I had some pansies around the base of these trees. So, to extend the pansies (I usually just let them die if it gets warm) I sprayed the pansies to keep them cool. This included the trees. I did this a couple of times a day. I was amazed at how much better the trees started looking (most plants hate our high alkaline and chloride city water). Then I remembered the advice on spider mites.

Definitely helps.

Now I'm just trying to figure out how often is often enough.

2 Cups spider mites
1 Cup olive oil
3 Cloves garlic
...

[duckin' and runnin' and lookin' for cover!]

Peace,

- Sequoia

Thanks, Sequoia. I've been restraining myself since I first saw the post. And it was starting to hurt.

at first I thought this was one of those put in the blender and let the bugger see its buddies all blended up and run stories...oh...but then the light came on..lol very funny Sequoia.

I recently read in a gardening manual that basil can be used to combat spider mites, but everywhere else I read that basil attracts them. Is there some way to handle basil, maybe pounding it and mixing with soap and water, that will turn it into a pesticide?

I had a bad infestation this year in my tropicals. I used a recipe of 1/2 gal water
1 TBS olive oil
1 TBS dish soap
1 TBS mouthwash
1 TBS hydrogen peroxide.

A couple applications of this, and it wiped the infestation out.

Why would someone who is supposed to be an "organic gardener" use, much less mix, a concoction like that. With the exception of the water and olive oil nothing everything there is a synthetic product, man made.

Well, kim, there are organic farmers with different levels of organicness, I guess... like there are different levels of vegetarians... some eat eggs and milk, some don't, and some are vegans.... I am a more relaxed organic farmer, I guess... but I don't judge you... so maybe you can do the same. You are great with the criticism though! You never stop!

I have used just the olive oil and water , sprayed on my plants every 6 days till they cleared up. The soap has made black spots on the leaves so I don't use it any more.

RE: Thrips

Posted by kimmsr 4a/5b-MI (My Page) on Mon, Feb 27, 06 at 7:09

If you think the larva that will become the adults might have overwintered in your saved corms you can soak them in a solution of 1-1/2 tablespoons of Lysol in 1 gallon of water for seeral hours before planting, but since the larva only move to the corms for the winter there is no good reason to dig them up and through them away during the growing season. Any sprays, including insecticidal soap, that would effectively control thips will also kill off any beneficial insects that might be around. Blue and yellow colored sticky traps can be used to trap adults. Check your soil and be sure it fully meets the needs of the glads.

Just wondering, kim person, when Lysol became more organic than mouthwash? Living in glass houses, you'd better be careful throwing stones.

There is a big difference in how this is applied. The Lysol never touches your soil or a live plant as your strange mixture does, you soak a dormant plant, let it dry so the bad stuff in the lysol is gone when you replant.
I am well aware that not many years ago there was a movement about that promoted using H2O2 in the garden to "increase" the oxygen around the plants, but as I stated back then this too will pass as nonsense. H2O2 will burn plant leaves and is not something any organic gardener would want to use IN the garden, same as any good organic gardener would not use Lysol In the garden. But if you get your soil into good health you can easily have pests and diseases that may take strong measures to cure, hopefully not steps that will pollute the environment and anyone that needs to take those steps has not reached the point of being a full organic gardener yet.