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gregdisario

Tomato CaMg+ Og Supplement

gregdisario
9 years ago

So I was told the other day that my tomato plants have a deficiency in CaMg+. They are dark and hard on the bottom of the actual tomato. I found some online 'organic' chemical supplements but I was wondering if you all knew anyway to supplement it naturally, organically and economically? Thanks!

Comments (6)

  • grubby_AZ Tucson Z9
    9 years ago

    Just adding things like lime and magnesium sulphate can do wonders or disasters, depending on how one's luck is running.

    Do you have any facts about the soil you can tell us such as pH, location, physical type, rainfall and so on? Some things, like pH, are biggies, even if there's only an approximate idea.

  • Kimmsr
    9 years ago

    Before adding anything except organic matter have a good reliable soil test for soil pH and major nutrients done. Your state universities Cooperative Extension Service may do those. A too low, or too high, soil pH can interfere with a plants ability to uptake or utilize soil nutrients and adding lime (for Calcium and or Magnesium) needs to be done with good information, that soil test. These simple soil tests can also help determine what else may be needed.
    1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

    2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

    3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

    4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

    5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.

    Here is a link that might be useful: USDA Cooperative Extension

  • jean001a
    9 years ago

    Tomatoes hard on the bottom? Perhaps rotted? If so, likely blossom end rot (BER), in which case the "shortage" is because uneven water supply because you're waiting too long to water.

    In other words, too little calcium is transported to the bottom of the tomato.

    A picture would help us be certain.

    This post was edited by jean001a on Fri, Aug 29, 14 at 0:32

  • Kimmsr
    9 years ago

    Blossom End Rot is caused by much more than just an "uneven water supply", although that is a cause. Perhaps this article by Charlie Nardozzi might be of some help with that.

    Here is a link that might be useful: When good tomatoes go bad

  • grubby_AZ Tucson Z9
    9 years ago

    Nope. Weird watering is pretty much it in these parts. I don't know who this Charlie feller is but I see no reason to listen to him. He's just another pundit.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Charlie

  • Kimmsr
    9 years ago

    It is too bad that some people reject out of hand good information from people that know something about what they are talking about. Charlie Nardozzi is the horticulturist for the National Gardening Association and has written many books and articles.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Charlie Nardozzi