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| this idea for this topic .. came from a post in the name that plant forum ... i thought that was a brilliant place to start ... learning what they are ... but they added.. first home.. and never had a yard/garden before... and it got me thinking... with such a blank palette [meaning knowledge, not planting a NEW garden ..] ... what do they need to learn.. and learn fast ... and the first thought that came to my mind ... beyond what is a weed and what isnt ... was WATERING ... and its corollaries mulch and tools ... watering is an art .. not a science.. its all dependent on your soil.. and how water moves thru it ... and that means.. that NO ONE BUT YOU ... can figure out how and when to water it ... no one can say.. with any certainty.. every three days... nor for 3 hours.. etc ... you may eventually figure out a schedule for your soil... but no one else can tell you ... watering involves providing water thru the whole root mass ... so it isnt a pistol grip.. i wet the leaves every night thing ... to facilitate such ... a watering wand can be very helpful ... with an on/off .... helps you puddle water.. which can really soak in ... if you perfect watering .... EVERYTHING will live ... including weeds... so a corollary to watering.. is mulching ... and i will add my thoughts on that during the next episode [when the meds wear off.. lol ... see what i did there ] .... so lets start.. with some insight into how you water .. tell us what you soil is ... how you get it to soak in ... etc .... what tool you use.. and what hose.. and why ... [i prefer ... carp.. i blanked ... flexogen hose ... the cost is double ... but i have had some of mine going on 20 years ... versus.. buying a new one every other years due to quality] ken ps: a great place to start... to learn your soil.. is to 'perk' it ... anyone care to tell us about that ... in layman's terms .... dont go all science on us... lol ... make it easy for the newb ... their head is already spinning ... pps: and if your yard is 75 feet deep .. do NOT buy a 100 foot hose... first.. you can barely move the thing full of water ... and it gives you no option ... a 50 and two 25 footers ... give you all kinds of options ... |
Here is a link that might be useful: link
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by eclecticcottage 6b wny (My Page) on Tue, May 27, 14 at 11:02
| How do I water...well...that's pretty easy. Anything in a pot or basket gets watered from the watering can on a daily or every other day basis depending on the weather (hot and sunny with wind means every day, cloudy and cooler with calm air means every other day). Anything that's not in a pot better be able to make it without watering, because I don't want fussy needy plants. The exceptions to that rule are newly seeded or newly planted things, which are watered as needed (newly seeded are watered daily for at least a week unless it rains, newly planted usually for a day or two unless they get droopy or bare root plants that will get a longer period of watering to be able to establish themselves better) and exceptionally hot dry spells that call for watering of the hostas. If I do water, it's for at least a half hour or more so it actually gets into the ground deep enough. I specifically try to choose things that don't need extra watering or fussing over. |
This post was edited by eclecticcottage on Tue, May 27, 14 at 11:59
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| I bought a house a year and a half ago and proceeded to rip out all the overgrown shrubs and foundation plantings. Next I installed irrigation throughout the yard (9 zones). Then I built back up the soil where it was low from the shrub removal, and proceeded to incorporate compost and build slightly elevated beds for improved drainage. I started out with lawn sprinklers everywhere and have been converting the beds to drip irrigation. The best method of watering beds is drip irrigation, it's easy, relatively inexpensive and will last many years. Let's be honest, the hardest part of growing plants is remembering to maintain them, and the easier it is the more likely for success. I can't strongly encourage drip irrigation enough, it's been the key to my success with plants, and it's so easy to get started, you just tap off and add as needed. Our first house I did hose end timers and it was great, I got my father started in the same fashion and he's hooked! On the second house I installed bigger mainlines underground like lawn systems, and then have converted them to drip. I still have the lawn irrigation but use the more modern "rotator" nozzles which have a slower water flow. I think people make a big deal about soil types, and it is relevant, but realistically most people are stuck with what they have and the recommendation is always going to be the same: "add organic matter". So for new people, I'd just recommend incorporating as much organic matter over as much and as deep as is reasonable. 90% of all roots exist in the top 18" of soil, and I'd suggest 1 shovel deep is good enough for most plants. So I'll summarize, rip out anything you aren't in love with, add enough soil to make the beds the way you want, incorporate as much organic matter as you can, install irrigation, mulch. |
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- Posted by BlueBirdPeony 5b NE Ohio (My Page) on Tue, May 27, 14 at 16:01
| Watch for 2 seasons before you do much. See what grows, see what spreads, see what you like/don't like. Maybe do some edging and trimming of things that are obviously too tall. Year three is the time to get aggressive with evicting, dividing, pruning. Take pictures. Take so many pictures that you want to throw up. No matter how many I have I can never find the one that I "need" (ie what a particular plant looked like during a particular time of growth). Make those pictures into a book (cheap and easy online). Reference it often. Make notes in it. Have fun and don't take gardening too seriously. |
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- Posted by gardenweed_z6a N CT (My Page) on Tue, May 27, 14 at 17:48
| Good advice above. I'll add just this: ask questions. There are novice and experienced gardeners of all ages who have varying levels of expertise with perennials and who post regularly on this forum and others. Many of us have already asked the questions that plague & confuse newbie gardeners. Oh, one more suggestion: draw your property on paper; include the dwelling, any outbuildings, driveway, patio, swimming pool, etc. Then add where there are trees, established garden beds. Orient the garden with the compass so you know where E, W, N & S are relative to your property. Unless you're planning major renovations, the map should remain fairly accurate in years to come. |
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