Above is an area that got tilted recently (picture is before the tilt). Judging from the weed, the soil seems fertile enough and get enough light. Note that soil is also alkaline and somewhat clay like.

I was thinking of populating the area with the following plants:

Lily of the valley White (spring)
Snowdrops White (spring)
Trollius yellow (spring to summer)
Astilbe Red? (summer)
Fragaria Pink? (spring to summer)
Tiarella Foamflower White (summer)
Toad Lilly Purple? (fall)
Autumn crocus violet? (fall)

Some of the plants like Lily of the valley can spread and may need edging. Is there anything I should add or remove? The goal is to get list of plants so that the spot blooms year round.

Paul

Also, I'd avoid Lily of the Valley. It's really invasive, and IMO, not worth the hassle.

Laceyvail's suggestion to think about the foliage is one of the keys to a lovely shade bed, and I would add foliage color to her suggestions of form (size, shape) and texture. Try doing a web image search for shade gardens and look at what appeals to you. For me the ones that jump out have a mix of foliage types and color along with some flowers that add some contrasting color.

All of LV's plant suggestions include some varieties that have variegated or colored foliage (along with green selections), and all have nice flowers as well though the flowers have a shorter period of influence than the foliage. Although my soil is quite different from yours (fine sandy loam and acidic,) some slender-leaved plants that like shade include in addition to those you and LV have suggested, Hakone grass/Japanese forest grass which has striped and yellow varieties and sedge/Carex varieties such as C. 'Ice Dance' or C. laxiculmus (Bunny Blue Sedge) or C. x siderosticha, all of which have at least some types with colored or variegated foliage. Ferns will add different texture, ginger/Asarum has rounded foliage, and woodland phlox/Phlox divaricata will add some spring flowers, but not very interesting foliage. Some others that add a combination of flowers and foliage include Cimicifuga varieties, especially ones with dark foliage like 'Brunette', Hellebores, and Iris crestata/crested iris.

By autumn crocus do you mean Colchicum or fall-blooming crocus? The Colchicum (which has larger flowers in pinker shades than most of the fall-blooming crocus) will do well in shade, while fall-blooming crocus won't. If you do plant Colchicum, put it where the leaves won't be visible in spring, which is when they grow and then die at about the same time as daffodil foliage. I didn't know that and planted them near the front of the bed and so have a big wad of dying foliage that I need to move further back so it isn't so obvious in May.

Regardless of what you plant, I would add lots of organic material to the soil, both mixed in before planting and as mulch on the surface after you plant to be incorporated by worms. That will be the best way to lighten your clay soil and make it easier for the plants to grow well. Composted leaves, city compost, or well aged or dried manure are some examples of good sources of organic matter.

The plan is to dump a layer of brush compost. Around her, I can get a bushel for $3.

I like the idea of giant solomon seal as an anchor plant. I was thinking of planting one of these against the wall and then clump stuff around it. The downside is that that plant does not appeared to be sold in this area for some reason.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Paul

buy it from Bluestone

OK, suppose I start with a solomon's seal as anchor (probably a variegated version), what does everyone suggest developing the rest of the design? Do I start with a tall plant in the back and gradually get lower plants to the front? Do I try to contrast each clump of plants?

Paul