show us a pic of the instructions

explain to us.. how you prepped the planting area ... how about a pic of that also

ken

First. Am not at mums (garden at which it'll be planted.
Also I have not prepared the ground yet. I was mearly asking how you would do it?
But when I prepare I'll be forking braking clumps adding manure (well rotted) and bonemeal then fork again. Then rake it to a nice even top.

The area is in sun from around 10am till it sets. It's in a protected place.
It's about a foot abd half deep, and about 30metwra long.

It's against a fence at moment I have a passiflora caerulea growing on it. The bed has had dahlias this year as well as a few wild seed mix (free ones from kew gardens) poppies too. And a few bulbs.
I'll upload a image tomorrow.

Hiya we have had a nice long and warm autumn in the UK but even so, your window for sowing hardy annuals for a fast germination and slow winter growing, is closing fast....and you might actually be better waiting till March, but meanwhile, spending winter giving the ground a turning. However, if you can get an area cleared and raked, then I would simply broadcast, a metre at a time....it doesn't matter too much about thick or thin sowing because you will likely have to thin out anyway (so remember to leave yourself space to reach all parts of the bed). I probably wouldn't be bothering with manure or even bonemeal...but would topdress in spring so these annual flowers (although I may be making an unwarranted assumption here) need to put on fast growth as soon as the sun and heat starts to increase around end of April.
The beds - I do a lot of raking to get a fine tilth, then I flatten the soil by pressing on a plank of wood (I walk on it) to create a reasonably firm seedbed and I try to wet it with a sprinkler before I sow because I find that watering after just causes the seeds to float about. I like to squash the seeds in with the back of my rake as it is essential that each seed makes a good contact with the soil.
Of course, this is the theory....in practice, I tend to do my scattering a b bit more piecemeal....with floriferous but uneven results....and have shied away from pre-mixed packets and have better luck pairing a couple or maybe 3 annuals which I know are the same height and bloom time....which do not always coincide with mixes. Also.. I think it is worth getting the ground right and not rushing to sow before spring....
More info (what flowers) would be helpful.

Re-reading this, it is a bit rambly but it is past my bed-time......

Actually I quite like a ramble, you can then seen their mind at work.

So a tiny bit about thw soil. When dry it's nice and fine but when it's wet it compresses alot! At thw time of thw flooding it made soil look like clay! And when it dries it cracks like clay. So I have a large quantity of used grow bag soil and so on. Would mixing that in help towards a top dress? (I know a too dress can be say 2 inch thick layer of compost leaf mould or anything to help replenish the soil.)

The year has been great, especially in Wiltshire, I've managed to put coconut palm outside! Anyway

So as with veg plot you'd just suggest ground prep from now on.
I got thw mixes as not used and it was cheap wilkos selling off summer stock! Tomato feed 80p 2ltr!!!
So for the self mix, I love Blue! So corn flower is a must! But what else would you suggest?

The back of packets say there is; pheasant eye, calendula., chrysanthemum, corn flower, coreopsis, californian poppy, linum, maltese. Cross, miniature sunflower.
Then
Agrostemma, corn flower, gyphsophila, nigella, candytuft, Virginian stock, clary, lavatera and phacelia.
And
ox-eye daisies, corn poppies, cornflowers and corn marigolds.

So I can see a wide array. Which will also make mum and dad happy, they personally don't need to do anything to it! They're lazy! Luckily being 21 I have tonnes of energy! So they have the nice garden at my cost! And yet they won't let me plant cacti!

Thank you.

To help spread the seeds evenly, some gardeners mix them with sand. The ratio is roughly 1/2 cup seed and 5 cups of sand. Then you scatter the seed/sand mixture by hand. For more even coverage, scatter half of the total combo mix over the entire wildflower bed; then go back and make a second pass spreading the second half of the sand/seed mix.

I usually recommend purchasing wildflowers by choosing several or more favorites that are adapted to the region/growing conditions, purchasing them separately, and mixing them for a custom blend. The problem with some commercial wildflower mixes is they like to use a larger percentage of less expensive seed, even though the resulting plants may have less desirable or refined growing characteristics. Even with high quality seed mixes, some of the mix may also not be well adapted to your soil or climate and not germinate, so only a few species may be dominate. And you end up paying for seeds that an unknown portion of which is likely destined to fail.

An example from your mix would be the different growing conditions favored by California poppies (low water, less fertile soil) and Maltese Cross (moister conditions and better quality soil). In my garden, the CA poppies would thrive, but the Maltese cross seeds might not even germinate. The broad variety helps the company ensure that some of the species will thrive for all of the various purchaser's climates/garden conditions. But the flip side is, it is doubtful that all of the seeds in the mix will thrive in any one location.

Your mixes seems to have a fairly good variety of seed involved--so the result will likely be successful and pleasing. Just don't be disappointed if everything listed does not make an appearance.

OK, these are tough and reliable mixes for a sunny position so I would, in your position, sow some of the seed now and keep the rest for a further sowing in spring. Mixing used growbags with your soil is a great idea - I use all sorts to bump up my thin and sandy stuff, including spent hops from a local brewery. These are fast growing annuals and do not really need extensive soil preparation, just enough to ensure the soil is not heavily compacted when you sow them - I know that clay effect - the good news is that your soil will probably hang onto nutrients better than more easily worked sandy soil, but yeah, it can be a pain and takes a while to warm up in spring.
Anyhow, if you sow now, those which do not germinate will just hang about and will wait till conditions are better - no need to use pots or such. I will say that annuals which do germinate in autumn tend to grow far sturdier than spring sown ones....so hedge your bets and do two sowings.

Pfft! - those lazy parent types- shocking....anyone would think they had never raised children or something ;-)

The image is of the other ones I have.

So just mix thw old soil into ground cool!

So the ones that will grow now and become more sturdy, will they also die down in winter but cone back from the roots? Or will the plant just stay?

Ive sown a pink mix at about early August. Abd the cosmos in it has flowered already! But that's all. That has flowered in it.
I have a dahlia that hasn't flowered yet! The buds are there! I have thinned out to 2 buds on the whole plant but I think it won't flower now as it's becoming cold! It didn't help the first growth was eaten by catapillas!

Anyway thank you for the help I'll upload site image in moment.

So it's from the conifer to the yellow pole near trunk!
There is a few plants on but the two dahlias will die soon was going to put into pot for now then put in shed.
And thw daylilies will be moved into permit position!
The passiflora was 3ft in April!