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| Hi,
I'm wondering if I can still divide and transplant flowers in this weather? We have had frost, and we have had 60-degree weather. I live near Chicago -- crazy weather. It's cold out, but I don't mind to do a little at a time. Thanks..................... |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| I think it depends on what kind of plant it is. What's the rush? Can't it wait to spring? Buf if you dig the whole plant with a big clump of soil just to move the whole thing to another site, I think you can do it with a lot of plants. Just be sure to disturb the plant as little as possible. |
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| Rule of thumb for zone 5--no transplanting of perennials after September. You can try it, but be prepared to lose a lost of plants. I certaintly wouldn't. |
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| laceyvail wrote: Rule of thumb for zone 5--no transplanting of perennials after September. I think this 'rule of thumb' is too much of a rule. That is I have planted new plants and transplanted older plants well into October with success. laagarden I say give it a try with one plant just to see how it goes. (Of course use a large(r) hole with exceptional soil amendents and top it off with lots of protective mulch to give it a better chance of success and report back next spring ;)) |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Tue, Nov 29, 11 at 7:59
| its very late... but the ground is workable.. transplant.. it is risky ... but will probably work if well mulched... in my z5.. heave would be the issue.. since there will be no roots to hold it in the ground.. also.. if there is not full snow cover.. intense drying late in winter could be a problem .... divide.. ABSOLUTELY NOT ... see above ... transplant them IF YOU MUST... dig very early.. and divide in april.. in fact ... just leave it all for april ... ken |
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| Have you checked your forecast about 6 days out? It doesn't sound like dividing, transplanting weather in your - or your plants - near future to me ;) |
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| Hmmmmm.... I just planted and transplanted a couple things yesterday, some clematis, hosta and a few deciduous shrubs. I don't recommend it but I also dont expect any loses. Like others have already said, mulch well to avoid frost heave and take it easy on the dividing. Also it depends on the plant... All the ones i moved are thick rooted and hard to kill :) |
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| September is way too conservative. I've planted and transplanted well into October and even November, especially rugged and hardy plants like Daylilies or Hostas. There are a few plants that are more sensitive, for example Buddleia, I wouldn't plant let alone transplant in the fall at all. Last year I transplanted and divided 4 peonies in mid-November. However, I planted them along the foundation of the house, where the soil temperature relative to the rest of the yard would be warmer throughout the entire winter. This year I stopped working with perennials in late October, but we've had an extraordinarily warm November, so probably could have gone later. I've been transplanting numerous shrubs and small trees in the past few weeks though. |
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| I also plant and transplant into early or even mid-November, but am careful to mulch well to prevent frost heave as mentioned above. Even with late planting I tend to lose far fewer plants in the fall (I can't remember losing any fall plantings) than in the spring since our spring soil is so much colder than the air. We tend to go from cool to hot weather with no time spent with warm weather in the spring, which is stressful for new transplants. |
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| not sure about transplanting, but do not divide Winter stressors and not enough time for healthy roots to develop to get small plants through winter. shrubs and trees with big healthy rootballs are another issue. If I saw some plants at a great price and had time to water well and regularly until the soil froze, I'd take my chances. |
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| Thanks sooooo much for all the responses. Believe it or not, I was outside today cleaning up my butterfly garden and another area. I also went for a 2 mile walk. I had my hat and gloves on, though. Oh, no. I hope it's not supposed to be soooo cold and bad weather soon. I miss my flowers already Thanks again, everyone for all your great advice. Chances are not going to go out there. |
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| We planted most of our perennial gardens in October through December. If planting conditions are good, we stop only when the snow starts. We lose nary a perennial this way. Letting the roots develop before the onset of frost is not necessary. Think of it as storing a bare root plant - all that is necessary for proper storage is the right temperature, absence of light and proper humidity. Roots start growing in spring when conditions are right. We have planted several thousand perennials and shrubs this way in our own and others' gardens. I would mulch heavily if I could not count on snow as a cover.
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| Your explanation ninamarie confirms what I had always thought but I what I rarely read in forums i.e. if the plant is dormant than basically it would only be too hard ground (frozen) that would stop one from planting. |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Sat, Dec 3, 11 at 18:25
| the only caveat i would offer.. is nina's decades of practice... [yes i am making a presumption] .... what we do... makes no real difference.. becasue if it dies.. we shrug and move on ... let me clarify for newbies .. if you are emotionally wrapped up in any given plant.. there is a BETTER TIME TO DO IT ... i would also add ... her z4 frozen ground... makes her suggestions specific to z5 and colder ... where the ground does not freeze... they might die of lack of water .... experiment .. learn for yourself.. and take no single answer as gospel .. that is what i really like about GW.. all the divergent answers .... ken |
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| Given the unusually warm and temperate conditions all fall and so far into December in my zone 5, a transplant or planting even in this last month of 2011 might have been viable! |
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| Can you transplant in winter? It depends: If you are working near the South-facing exposure of a home or building, the sunlight warms the surface and radiates heat that keep the soil from freezing year-round. In Denver, CO, there was a deep freeze that reached a few degrees below zero a couple weeks ago. Two days later, while snow was still on the ground in most places, I checked an exposed spot near a South-facing wall; the soil was not frozen at all. Everywhere else, though, frozen solid. So if you are working in a shaded or partially-shaded area, near a North or East exposure of a building, or in a flat unshaded area far from any structure, don't transplant this late - the roots won't have any opportunity to grow into the soil and the plants will dry out over winter. If you are working in the narrow, ideal kind of spot I described - which despite being in a Zone 5 area, is more like a Zone 7 microclimate - it's risky but not impossible. |
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