Mike, if you take a look at the thread below you will see we had a wee bit of a discussion on chloramines although not directly on effects. One poster did mention the levels at which he believed effects take place.
---David

Here is a link that might be useful: Existing thread on chloramines

Chloramine contains ammonia and chlorine. Adding even small amounts of city water without adding any products to dechlorinate and bind the ammonia will slowly kill the fish. It will cause a thickening of the gills and lead to suffocation. Water conditioning products are not expensive and will save your fish from a lot of suffering.

From what I've come across so far, anything more then .003 ppm of chlorine can start causing stress to certain fish. It did not say exactly what fish, but there was a consistancy that the larger the fish, the more effect it has on them. The thing about chloramine is it makes the chlorine last longer. It is considered a secondary disinfectant. From what I understand, from what I have read, Chlorine alone is used to initially disinfect the water at the treatment facility, then more is added along with chloramine on it's way to the customer to provide an extended amount of time disinfecting. This way you can fill a water pitcher at home and put it in a refridgerator and it will stay drinkable for longer.

David, I still haven't read what you provided for me, I intend to, just a busy week.

What they said. All I have to add is for my money (and FISH!) I would/do always add dechlor to the water in a separate bucket, dechlor first then water so they well mix, then add that to my pond. Safe & sure all gets treated.

The other method I've heard of takes advantage of the fact that the dechlor is itself harmless to fish, so it is safe to treat your whole pond with it then just drop your hose in. (Don't let the hose run overnight! It's happened!)

I get Beckett conditioner at the home store (the blue one) and a $10 16 oz bottle will treat 1920 gallons of water.

Another approach is to get an inline carbon water filter to strip out the nasties and again just drop the home in. In this case, as long as you don't run out the filter you can leave the hose run a week or two.

And the last method that I know of, don't like, but is told by Doc Johnson on the koivet sight is to get a drip irrigation head and slowly, constantly add city water directly to your pond, letting it overflow. At these very low flow rates the toxic elements never get to stressful conditions, and you get a constant water exchange for very little work.

Forgot to add - Mike - what you described definately sounds like stress. I am not saying that it is definately the chlorine/chloramine, but if it's eliminated that is one less worry and possibility.

ernie - I was curious about the dechlorinator and how quickly it works. I know what I've been told for years and what I've read in studies. I believe the scientists, but I wanted to see it first hand. I only used a bucket, not a pond....yet. I had a bucket 1/2 full with aquarium water from a fish tank. I started filling the bucket straight from the tap. I poured the dechlor just as the stream of water from the hose was added. When it was filled, about 30 seconds later, I quickly took samples and tested them for chlorine and ammonia. The chlorine was undetectable and ammonia was about 1ppm. My test kit only tests for total ammonia, so I am assuming that the ammonia I detected was in the "non-toxic" stage.

Thanks for all the great info, I've learned much but being on the busy/lazy side, I was wondering (after having done some additional reading) if I could go with an in-line type charcoal filter adapted to garden hose/municipal water supply which would eliminate measuring, adding de-chlorine/chloramine additives. I know my wife would be happier with that arrangement (I'm away at work on a 2 wk. on/2wk off schedule) but I'm not positive charcoal would filter chloramine? My fish, my Wife and I appreciate your indulgence.

Here's a good filter:
http://www.pondbiz.com/home/pb1/page_16_32/garden_hose_chlorine_filter.html

It's on my to get list!

Specs:
"Systems IV garden hose water filter works great to minimize impurities, chlorine and chlorimine in tap water. Use to top off your pond. Easily attaches to your existing garden hose with the attached LEAD FREE solid brass fittings.

2 1/2 dia. 9" filter length, 12" overall length. Great to use with the mini vac or leaf vac so you don't end up with chlorine in your pond while you are removing leaves and debris.

Guaranteed for one year. Average 7500-10,000 gallons with normal city water."

So yeah, it strips out the nasty chemicals and is safe for fish.

All you need worry about adding water right from your hose is pH, temperature, KH, AK... except for temperature all stuff you can fix when you're back home.

(wish I knew how to make links here)

I have an RO/DI filter for drinking water as well as aquariums. It has 6 stages. The first is just a sediment filter, basically to remove stuff before it gets to the finer Carbon filters. The RO membrane is prematurely destroyed by chlorine so the next 2 filters are a 1GPM carbon filter and a .5GPM carbon filter. They do remove the chlorine and are supposed to remove the ammonia as well.
I ironically put together my own filter using 2 10" filter housings from home depot for about $16 each and 2 carbon filters 1GPM and .5GPM catridges. I haven't tested it yet, but intend to in the next couple day's I'll let you know how they tested if you want. My water has +/- 2 ppm chlorine and 2 ppm ammonia, unfiltered.

woeisme: I'd be interested in the details on your DIY filter when your done with the testing. (I'm sure it will test fine but my motto is "Trust, but verify.")

"Recently I had to add 200-300 gals of water to my 1200 gal. pond "

Mike, 25% of 1200 = 300
So ever how much chloramine is in your tap water, you added 25% of that.

Have you checked pH?
Our water has a very high pH.
I know if I add 25% new water it will raise the pH of the old water up sky high immediately.

If you haven't already checked, at least check pH before you invest in a carbon filter.
Be sure and use Bituminous carbon, that's for removing chlorine.
HTH

"(I'm sure it will test fine but my motto is "Trust, but verify.")"

Mine also.

OK Ernie, Take the link to the test results if you want.

Here is a link that might be useful: Chlorine Test Results