My first guess, though I'm no expert is that the strongest possibility would be that the pump may be clogging if there is no filter to keep debris out of it.

I'm not sure what you mean by bulb. Is it a swelling in the hose itself (like a snake that has eaten a rabbit)or something added to the hose like a connector or shut-off valve or check valve? I'm also not understanding how the hose changes from 1 1/2" to 1/2" at the end.

Anne

Hi Anne,

I've opened the pump as much as one can, and cleaned that out- doesn't seem to be clogged there? (unless it's inside where I can't get to)

The bulb part is in the attached picture- definitely something added to the tubing.

I didn't create the pond, nor did the previous owners, so I can't speak in regards to the end of the hose. I just know that it's smaller at the waterfall than at the pump... :-/

Thanks!

Looks like a backflow preventor valve to me. It should unscrew at each end. If you take it off to clean it be sure you put it back so the water flows through it. There should be an arrow on the side showing which way the water flows.

Jenny

Shalom - definitely a back flow/check valve which as a spring - great for catching gunk. If you can disconnet the tubing from the pump , run the pump to see if the flow is okay.

The end of the checkk valve should come off, and the valve and spring removable for cleaning. If not - get a new one while the tubing is open on both ends, get a cheap eletrical snake at Harber Freigh./ box store, etc. run it through the tube, tie a rag on the end and pull it back through the tubing, it should be a slight snug fit, pending on how much gunk is in the tube, it may be a challenge - to prevent the snake from getting stuck pull it through loosely the first time and/or tie a very strong string/thin cable on the end of the snake with the rag so it can be pulled in both directions. Snugness needs only to be slight. The number of bends will affect the pull, so if there a lot of bends, some sharp, use a loose fiting rag and pull several times - remember pulling around a bend will is tough. sometimes just l;oosing the gunk, removing the chekc valve and flushing the line may be all that's need - no rag pulling - maby a rope tied to the end of the snake instead of a rag may be safer and it can be used to pull both ways - enough to break it all lose.

McKool

Shalom again, you could get a inexpensive plumber' snake a the boxstores, may be the simplest, depends somewhat on the length of the tube which may be cheaper

Is there a reason the check valve is on there? Do I need it?
It leads up to my waterfall, which runs all the time and was already on when I purchased the house/pond.

...A few hours later... I did get the valve off, and it's full of gunk! I peeked down the tube, and while dirty, it doesn't seem to be clogged anywhere (of course, one can only see so far). I can't remove anything from the inside of the valve either, seems pretty well stuck on.

Thanks McKool!

Jess

Shalom - the check valve is to keep water from returning to the pond and draining the waterfall box if there is one, it also helps keep some of the head pressure off the pump - most likely not a factor for you as I'm sure the vertical height of the water fall is only a few feet if the pump was turned of or disconnected,. another thought on cleaning - you can get a power hose nozzle - it's cone shaped with a small center hole that increases the pressure coming out of a garden hose - this may work for you, it would be the cheapest. Most garden centers should have it. I use the one I have for cleaning out the house gutters, as well.

Mckool

glad to be of asistsnce

Shalom - I have a very long hose if hubs would like to borrow it so you don't hear the compressor - just trying to be helpful(LOL). Forgot about the air compressor, we have 2, wife uses the pancake one for cleaning out the sewing machines
McKool

Well, gee thanks, McKool. I'll be sure & pass that offer along to hubs. For the record, he got his chuckles the following weekend when I was in the cramped area behind the pond cleaning the filter. Tripped & fell backwards into my puddle. Not hurt, ptL, but was laughin so hard he had to help me up. Unfortunately (for him) he was laughin too.

The moral of this story is...flip-flops & a water hose are not a winning combination. Oh, and never laugh at someone with a water hose in hand. Just ask hubs. The battle is on.

shalom,
~digger

I am not sure if my check valve observation would apply to all setups but I found out the hard way that freezing weather during a power failure would crack your hose or whatever was exposed to trapped water/ice.

I also wasn't clear about your pump cleaning. If you didn't take your pump apart and look at the impeller and its housing, you may very well have a small vine tangled in there slowing the pump action.

The pump seems to be back up to speed! I did remove the check valve, as I wasn't sure how necessary it was... I'll probably turn off the waterfall pump during the winter, so I guess I'm not worried about the power failure part and freezing part? Although, do people leave their waterfalls running? Any special care to prepare the pond? It would be really pretty if we get snow this year!

I took apart the pump as much as I could and cleaned everything. I did check the impeller as well, and that was clean.

Thanks all! You're great! (ps... I will make sure I avoid all people when cleaning out the tubing. hehe)

I'm down in zone 7 and I leave my pond and stream running 24/7/365. I think most people turn their pumps off in the much colder climes. The flow would keep the pond from freezing completely over, but it seems that fish can survive in the deep water anyway. Many have suggested that the ponds don't actually completely seal over at rocky edges. The other reason they stop is that it is claimed that the snow insulated or sealed pond stays warmer than continually adding air chilled waterfall or stream water.

One of the most important reasons for me to shut off my stream in the winter is that, if there is an ice jam on the stream, the water can overflow the stream and pump the pond dry. My area that would cause problems is where the water flows over a spillway. All it would take is a little ice to start forming and it's all downhill from there!!

Hi All,

I have a similar issue. My pipe is underground. I tried to send a snake in there and thought the check valve was stopping it. Could it be that blocked that it's stopping the snake?

Shalom - check valves are either a flapper or spring loaded so a snake well not pass and the actual opening is smaller than the actual pipe diameter. If it is a flapper type,, hinged and no spring a snake may pass - just remember to go in the same direction as the water flow .

Can you try using a "fire type nozzle on the water hose-this increase the pressure and may help. The nozzle is a short cone shaped and has a small diameter hole in the end - and if possible push the hose nozzle through the pipe.
(or maybe through enough to help keep pressure up to the end )you should be able to get it at a hardware store.

If you can disconnect the pump from the tubing, as there could be some buildup at the pump discharge. Worn impeller on the pump will decrease flow as well.

You can get a tether float switch where they sell sump pumps that can be added to the pump to shut it off when the water gets lot to the set point - common for sump pumps so when the sump is dry the pump turns off- when sump get water in it turns on. They run a about $30.00 at the box stores. I have one on my system.

Not sure I understand the 1/2" output location - that does not sound good form what I'm understanding about it

Shalom - check valves are either a flapper or spring loaded so a snake well not pass and the actual opening is smaller than the actual pipe diameter. If it is a flapper type,, hinged and no spring a snake may pass - just remember to go in the same direction as the water flow .

Can you try using a "fire type nozzle on the water hose-this increase the pressure and may help. The nozzle is a short cone shaped and has a small diameter hole in the end - and if possible push the hose nozzle through the pipe.
(or maybe through enough to help keep pressure up to the end )you should be able to get it at a hardware store.

If you can disconnect the pump from the tubing, as there could be some buildup at the pump discharge. Worn impeller on the pump will decrease flow as well.

You can get a tether float switch where they sell sump pumps that can be added to the pump to shut it off when the water gets lot to the set point - common for sump pumps so when the sump is dry the pump turns off- when sump get water in it turns on. They run a about $30.00 at the box stores. I have one on my system.

Not sure I understand the 1/2" output location - that does not sound good form what I'm understanding about it

McKool,

It's blocked inches from the intake. I have to disconnect the pump to get to the pipe.The pictures I've seen on the Internet show the valve further down the line. I tried the nozzle thing and putting the snake in at the same time. Still no joy. May try it again today or tomorrow. The valve on the nozzle will get in the way to send the hose in.

Shalom - If you would like to email me at ltchenkel@comcast.net - maybe we can talk through it

If it is a common check valve, won't that prevent the snake from being pulled back? It is a one way trap after all.

Hey, Josie. I want to get back to the pump for a moment. When you have removed the cover that is not factory sealed you should be able to see a shaft protruding from a hole. That is the impeller. Often it gets jammed or slowed or even stopped. The culprits are usually long fibers from rotted plants, leaf veins, string and worst, human hair that wraps around the impeller and works its way down the shaft.This material must usually be cut away and it can be very irritating. If it is not removed the pump will eventually slow or stop or overheat and burn out. That is an expensive result that can be avoided with yearly maintenance, cleaning the pump.

Do you have a pre-filter on the intake? Clogs in the intake tubing are usually because they have picked up something like a stone, leaves acorns or other large seeds, debris blown into the pond and small sticks. Someone here had a small flowerpot sucked into the intake pipe. Combined with algae, dirt and/or snails and their eggs any of that can really mess up an intake tube.

Pumps often come with inadequate sponge filters that usually get thrown away. I use a wellhead pump pre-filter. It prevents anything larger than 1/4 inch from getting into the pump. There are filters on the market that do a decent job and there are plans for homemade pre-filters. A decent pump should not be bothered by stuff smaller than 1/4 inch. The only time I had a problem, the raccoons dumped a pot filled with really small gravel on top of the pre-filter. My pre-filter does not rest entirely on the bottom but even that did not prevent it from passing that size gravel. At the very least, the end of the intake tube should be covered with a screen to prevent critters getting sucked in.

I wish your post was not attached to the older one. I keep thinking about that setup instead of yours and you don't really give us a good description of your system.