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adam_harbeck

too bright/hot for water lilies?

Adam Harbeck
10 years ago

Hello forum,

I am trying to grow water lilies in ceramic potted water gardens here in Mandurah, Western Australia. We have a 'Californian climate', with long, hot summers and cool wet winters. I have attempted a few varieties with mixed success, but am having issues with one pot in particular. Nearly everything I have read states that water lilies need full sun for at least 6 hours a day. I have a large, earthenware pot witha volume of approx 125 litres (very simmilar to this http://www.potsrusonline.com.au/product118/detail/pirate-jar/) that I am struggling to keep plants in. I originally had a hardy 'Indiana" which would grow leaves which would melt when they reached the surface, so I moved it to a very shallow position 9-10cm deep) in a large pot that recieves more shade and stays quite cool on the advice of an aquatics nursery, and it's now leafing very happily. (This bigger pot is about a metre deep and gets nealry full sun, but has a bit of shade from a guava bush and has tall cannas and Tradescentia growing around it which shelter the sides from the sun. The small yellow lily in there seems to to quite well, provided it's positioned quite close the surface).

I gave the pot a full clean out, refilled it and purchased a tropical 'fireglow' and hardy 'gloriosa' for the pot, and both looked fine for the first couple of days, until the leaves on the 'Fireglow' started to appear bleached and a bit mushy at th edges. I shifted it into my deep, cool in-ground pond where it should hopefully recover, but have left the 'gloriosa' in place as it doesnt look too bad. Do lilies actually need some protection from the sun in a hot climate like this? The pot gets diect sun, and the sun beats down from the west in the afternoon. Could the water be too hot? It does appear very stratified and warm. Could this be the issue as opposed to the sunlight? I am considering moving the pot to a position where it will be more shltered. What do you all think?

I feed with fertiliser tablets every couple of months, and all thd pots are stocked with Rosy barbs to controll mosquitos.

Thanks in advance for your advice,
Adam

Comments (18)

  • garyfla_gw
    10 years ago

    Hi
    I live in s. florida in the US so know a bit about heat lol
    Mine are in an above ground 5x10x 3 foot pool..Gets over 6 hours but is some afternoon shade.. . I do have some type of worm that chews the pads resulting in some damage but pushes new pads so fast doesn't seem to bother it.
    I do think it's important for the pads to have enough room to float as when the pads stack up the uppers tend to die rather rapidly. I grow only tropicals as I wanted blue flowers . "Blue goddess/ panama pacific and there really isn't room for more lol Have no experience with temperates though I suspect they would be more sensitive to heat?? Hope you solve the problem gary

  • Adam Harbeck
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks Gary,

    I bit the bullet and relocated the pot where it gets shade from the neighbours ficus in the afternoons. The water is cooler and the fish look happier, so I'm assuming the lilies will be too.
    I think the issue here is the dry heat. We have been told that even though every online article and book says to put them in full sun, we need to grow our Lotus in the shade because they just scorch straight away. We have a very dry heat here, with extreme UV, so I think some shade is necessary. I noticed this morining that the gloriosa has sent up a bud, hopefully that is a sign that it's happier in its new spot.

    Do you keep fish in the pond? Aapparently they help control those grubs.

    " Caddis Fly and your water lily
    Caddis Fly is a moth like creature whose larvae can cause great damage to water lilies. These larvae use pond debris and water lily stems to build cases in which they move around the pond, mostly at night. Generally the first sign of Caddis Fly infestation in your pond is the appearance of lily stems, leaves and flower buds that appear to be cut cleanly off the lily plant. If you head out to your pond at night with a torch you can often see the Caddis Fly larvae moving around the pond, they appear as moving sticks on the base of the pond and on lily stems. Once the Caddis Fly larvae reach this size they are usually too large for Goldfish to eat. The best way to control Caddis Fly is by keeping a good number of fish in your pond. If you have a small pond with small fish you may need to manually pull the Caddis Fly larvae from the pond."

  • garyfla_gw
    10 years ago

    Hi
    For most of the ponds life(1981 ) have kep . tropical fish
    mostlyt swordtails , tetras some barbs. A freak cold spell in 09 eended that ,so went to GF which I feared couldn't handle the heat but have done very well too well actually , have had to thin several times.
    Anyway the lilies seem to make it through the bugs but does look terrible a couple months per year
    What's a few bugs among friends ?? lol
    Thanks for the info!! gary

  • tomsg
    10 years ago

    You might have good success with a bowl lotus .

  • Adam Harbeck
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    what is a bowl lotus?

  • sdavis
    10 years ago

    Yup, hot midday sun will be too much for waterlilies where the sun can heat the water over 95ðf, both hardy and tropical waterlilies can go heat dormant.

    Trop lilies tend to turn to mush and survive as tubers, hardies will quit flowering, send up smaller pads

    Midday shade, or increasing surface coverage with floating plants can moderate water temps.

    BTW lotus are less heat tolerant than waterlilies

  • Adam Harbeck
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Thanks sdavis,

    I had not seen naything about heat dormancy until now. Makes perfect sense though. Just had a heatwave (2 days in excess of 43C/109.4F), but they seem to be ok. The shade is definately helping. Unfortunately my lotus which were under 70% shade cloth scorched in the heat.

  • anna cook
    8 years ago

    Hi, I have a natural swimming pool in Spain, which doesn't work very well.

    And am having trouble with water lilies, If anyone in say California or Australia have any advise I'd be very grateful. My lilies are in a depth of 40-60 cm of water. They are as said above shooting up small pads and fairly dormant considering the 7 years they've had to get it together! My quandary is- if I make they're area 1 meter deep (costly pa larva) will they work?

    or is it the total lack of shade for 8-10 hours of the day? temperature here in the summer is 36-40 degrees c, water temp is usually around 10 degrees lower..

    anyone have similar experiences? I have lots of water surface area...but can't get lilies big enough to shade themselves.

  • anna cook
    8 years ago

    I mentioned California and Australia as I think both are zones 9-10 same as here.

  • tropicbreezent
    8 years ago

    It will probably depend a lot on which lilies you're growing. Some of my ponds in the summer have water running in (from a natural source) at temperatures of 30C to 32C, except during rain. At night it drops back to about 28C. Temperature at the bottom and in the soil around the tubers/roots would be lower. Deepest water is about 1 metre. The waterlilies are fine with all that. By the way, Australia has zones from 9 to 14, and a lot of different climates.

  • anna cook
    8 years ago

    Thanks, I'm growing hardy lilies I bought in the uk- as we still get cold winters.

    Sounds like sending them deeper is probably the answer then, at the depth they are now the sun still hits the soil so they are probably suffering.

    I know Australia would have lots of different climates- big place, but as it starts at 9 I guessed I would get more relevant answers than advice from say the uk where they will grow in 30cm of water all day long.

    Thanks for the fast answer, if you have anymore tips you can think of I'm all ears! =]

  • tropicbreezent
    8 years ago

    The sun hitting the bottom shouldn't really affect them. It's the same with how fish and tadpoles survive in heated water, lower down the water is cooler. Also, soil above tubers would insulate them further. I also have a natural swimming pool, only 30 metres across but enough for me. Waterlilies are growing in it from a depth of about 10 cms to 1.5 metres. They only get filtered sunlight but still flower quite well. Only thing is the leaves and flowers are small due to the lack of direct sunlight most of the day. The same species of waterlily in ponds out in full sun all day are larger. Waterlilies have evolved to live in wetlands with little or no tree canopy above them. As they're floating in water high air temperatures don't have much effect, what's more important is the intensity of the sun. And, as I mentioned before, tubers are well insulated.

  • anna cook
    8 years ago

    Maybe I need to know what lilies you have planted then, as mine are in 40cm of water and are shooting up tiny pads, but not due to lack of light- they get intense light all day.

    I gave the same lilies to a friend here, she has them at 1 meter deep - but in the shade- they have grown big.

    She is telling me they need to go deeper, but hers aren't full sun and as I said they came from uk- where the uv is low anyway.

    What are you growing?

    Thanks Anna


  • tropicbreezent
    8 years ago

    One is Nymphaea 'H.C.Haarstick', red coloured and night flowering. At the moment I have one flowering in a new incomplete pond, in about 10 cms of water.

    The other 2 are Nymphaea violacea and N. gigantea, both day flowering, but not at the moment. The N. gigantea is in a lot of shade and about 15 cms of water. Has sporadic very small flowers. I've put a seedling of it in the same pond as the red one where it'll get a lot of sun.

    We're not fully into our rainy season yet so a lot of the pools where some of my waterlilies grow are still dry. Once they fill up the waterlilies in those will start to grow.

  • Adam Harbeck
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Would Nymphaea mexicana survive in your climate? It's considered a weed here, but I've seen it growing in very shallow water. Almost as a marginal. The emergent leaves actually look really nice.

    The other option, dare I say it, is perhaps plant some trees to shade the edges in the afternoon.

    or maybe interplant with taller marginals?

    Here's a pic of my big water pot from today. I ended up havin to move the problem pot into a shady spot and planted it with Thalia.


  • anna cook
    8 years ago

    hey sound great.

    I have already planted as much as I can around the edges, but alas...no joy. Am considering other marginals instead of lilies they would have to be low ones though no more than 20cm high as anything taller would stop me being able to see it from the house, and of course they aren't oxygenaters so hope it still works.

    So just to clarify- the mexican ones you mention- can they handle full sun? and do you have any luck growing from seed? as I have no idea how to lay my lands on them here.

    Anna =]


  • Adam Harbeck
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    We don't have the right pollinator, so they don't set seed in Australia.

    Here you often find them in old farm dams and stormwater sumps, just grown from dumped rhizomes. Full sun and often shallow or even ephemeral. They also remain evergreen as winters are mild .

    You might be able to find them online and have them shipped.

    http://www.invasives.org.za/invasive-species/item/693-yellow-water-lily-nymphaea-mexicana.html


  • tropicbreezent
    8 years ago

    All of mine seed like crazy and produce lots of seedlings. And the seeds, in water, stay viable for a few years at least. One container I cleared of waterweed recently hasn't had waterlilies in it for a few years. Now that the sun is getting through to the bottom there's scores of seedlings that have started to emerge. They're the night flowering red one. If you check Ebay you'll often see the seeds for sale, mainly from Thailand.