I've used both gels and powder. Powder works better for me--any brand. The gels did not stop rot. The key ingredient is not the hormone itself but the fungicide--that's what prevents pathogens from killing the cutting.

Moldy would indicate you are keeping the cuttings too moist. What is your method? Are you using sterilized mix? Damp is all you need. Moist is too moist and wet is fatal.

Rooting powder is not the issue as Hoov said. I use coconut coir from the hydroponex stores in the area. Cheap and very effective. That and a powder hormone will do the trick.

I use Scott's potting soil in a gallon ziploc bag. Is potting soil the problem? should I use perlite instead?

I really wanted to root cuttings from my Jackson Perkins roses. They grew so beautifully for me, and I wanted to preserve what I now think of as valuable artifacts. Since the cuttings did not root, I'm really hoping that these roses survive the multiple snowstorms we're getting here in NY.

Thanks to all who responded.

Try seed starting mix with extra perlite added. You might also want to try putting the cutting into peat pots, then putting the pots inside the baggies. Excess water that drains from the pots can then be easily poured out of the baggie.

I use expandable Jiffy Peat pellets, but I place them in small pots of wet perlite and set them under the misting system. I had very good luck by placing bottomless two liter capped beverage bottles over the cutting in the pot. They act as little greenhouses. The perlite hold moisture but also drains well, so the cutting is not setting in water. The bottle placed in the perlite over the cutting holds humidity keeping the cutting from drying out. Kept in a partially sunny spot, enough heat and humidity build up that the cutting roots quickly. The peat pellet allows you to check for rooting without damaging any tender new roots. Water can be added by removing the cap or if the pot is wide enough water can be added to the exposed perlite and it'll work its way to the cutting. When I went to the misting method in my greenhouse, the bottles were not needed. For rooting them inside in a sunny window, the bottle method works well.

Scott's is too rich. You want something sterile and without nutrients. Clean sand kept damp (not wet) works too. It takes practice. You have to experiment and find out what works in your climate. Karl gets best results in hot humid conditions. I get best results in cool dry conditions. Cleanliness counts to avoid mold and damping off.

The first one you see roots on is the biggest joy. I still remember the first one I rooted.

I dunno if you guys know or not, but the rooting hormones (Rootone) with the fungicide are no longer available. I ordered a ton from our Ace warehouse last fall to take advantage before they were all gone. Had customers buying a dozen bottles at a time because they knew the fungicide was being banned. We can only get the Rootone by itsself now. And I'm pretty sure that's not just a CA thing... it's nationwide.

Regarding the mix you use for putting your cuttings in, it might be worth a visit to the Container Gardening site and a perusal of some of the posts by Al/Tapla. He uses a 1-1-1 mix of redwood or fir bark fines, Turface and coarse silica sand for containers, and his explanations of how and why his mix works are enlightening. Other members who have used it seem to think it's the cat's pajamas. I'm thinking his mix (which he calls his Gritty Mix) might be useful for striking cuttings. I don't want to stick my neck out too far because I'm not really qualified, and I haven't experimented with it for cuttings, but I think his information is very interesting.
Susan

Here is a link that might be useful: Container Gardening Forum

We use Dip 'n Gro, and prefer it.
Powders didn't work as well for us.

But we also use willow water, and Nature's Nog on the developing cuttings, and DH has a very good success rate, overall.

Not in plastic baggies, though.
All we ever raised in baggies is grey mold. :-(

Jeri

Many thanks to all who responded.

I'll change my regimen, but will have to wait until spring to get some more cuttings. Am hoping that I'll be successful with the next batch.

By spring, you mean June, right? The easiest cuttings to root are from flowering stems.

Clonex has worked great for me with many different cloning methods and plants/trees

Preferably use a rooting hormone that contains both IBA and NAA. I believe Rootone is solely the IBA component. And warm and moist and sterile is also necessary.
As for the one's that are solely IBA, Lee Valley Tools Root Stimulator has also worked well for me.

Here is a link that might be useful: Wood's Rooting Hormone