|
| Suggestions on creating garden labels to keep track of these various types of roses? |
Here is a link that might be useful: gardening in az
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| I use 10 inch zinc markers with a garden marker. I've tried the copper and they turn green on me, and the plastic ones break to easily. There are thicker plastic ones that are made by Harland, which are sturdier, but the sun still fades them faster than the zinc ones (my opinion of course)... I label each rose like this: NAME (top line) ~Tammy :) |
|
| I get copper wire on tags like the ones in the link below. I like the wire on ones because they stay with the plant even when it's moved. I tried the ones you stick in the ground but those seem to always get pulled out and lost. I use a P-Touch label maker to put the names on them. I have some that have held up and are still completely readable after 5 years in the garden. These are on e-bay but I've bought them both on line and in nurseries so they should be easy to find. |
Here is a link that might be useful: copper plant tags
|
| Forgot to include pic...this might make more sense :) Seil...is there a certain type of label that you use in your printer? I would love to find printed labels that hold up in the rain/sun...it would look much more professional... ~Tammy |
Here is a link that might be useful: My Labels
|
| One inexpensive, effective but not pretty label is to cut a little elongated round edged strip from a soda or beer can. Ordinary scissors work fine. Punch a hole in it with a hole puncher and write on the back side of the metal with a nail or pen. It will indent the metal permanently. Then tie on with a twist tie. |
|
- Posted by mariannese 5b (My Page) on Tue, Jan 31, 12 at 9:18
| I use black scratch-on labels. A homemade label can be made from discarded Venetian blinds. Cut off slats at suitable lengths and mark with a permanent marker or a lead pencil. Punch holes and tie on with wire. |
Here is a link that might be useful: black scratch-on labels
|
- Posted by floridarosez9 10 (My Page) on Tue, Jan 31, 12 at 11:14
| After a well drilling crew knocked down and scattered all my labels in one entire bed, I started using leftover driveway pavers, and I write the name and all info with industrial marker and sink them partially in the soil in front of the rose. The squirrels can't carry these babies off (which they used to do). |
|
- Posted by queenbee_1 7 (My Page) on Wed, Feb 1, 12 at 9:47
| Thank you all for sharing.I started using the copper markers but they have become really hard to read--even tho, I have scribed them w/ an ink pen. I always keep a list in my gardening journal.. BUT I am going to buy the P-Touch label maker to try it... Sounds wonderful if it will hold up. |
|
- Posted by karl_bapst_rosenut 5a NW Indiana (rosenut@rosenut.com) on Wed, Feb 1, 12 at 11:48
I use 15" stainless steel markers from Kincaid Gardens. The label is made on a Brother P-Touch label maker using water & UV resistant laminated labels. I started using them 4 years ago and the original markers look as good today as they did then. The stainless stays looking good, the 15 inch heavy duty wires don't rust, and puts the labels up where I can see them easily.  I used the zinc markers for a few years and the wires all rusted away after a year. I replaced them with the taller stainless steel. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Kincaid Stainless steel plant markers
|
| I've used Cook's aluminum plant labels for my roses and all other plants where they've been suitable for nearly 30 years. There are many out there right now that are that old. I can't find the brand and package on line at the moment, but they're just like the ones pictured at the link below. In my area, they are usually in a white box, fifty tags and wires for about $7 or $8. I've found them at the home improvement stores, some nurseries and a few department stores which had "nurseries". A box lasts me a year or two, depending upon how manic I am about "collecting" that year! Kim |
Here is a link that might be useful: Aluminum labels
|
| Queenbee, just make sure you get the labels meant for outdoors like Karl said. I tried the indenting thing too and after a couple of years they were unreadable. The labels have worked out much better. This is from the oldest batch of mine.
And this is one of the newest ones.
As you can see they've held up great! |
|
| If they've been written on, I agree, but they're soft so when you "write" on them, it embosses what you've written into the soft metal. Legibility has never been an issue with them once embossed. I've used both pencil and pen to emboss them with equal success. For plastic labels, #2 pencil is the ONLY way to go. No "permanent marker" is nearly as permanent as #2 pencil. When The Depression hit, The Huntington Library was unsure of their funding, so they removed the rose gardens. After WW II, when they knew what their money situation was, the roses were replanted. As they were installed, plastic labels with the names written in #2 pencil were dropped into the holes, then the plants installed. Clair Martin said many times over the years he'd dug up decades old labels with legible names written on them. When plants were obtained and installed for The Heritage in San Jose, "permanent markers" were used to label plants and I heard complaint after complaint they washed off, yet those written in #2 pencil remained legible. I do the same here. Any type of label I use where it must be written on, is done in #2 pencil as the graphite does not come off unless rubbed off (erased). I've put them in the planting holes as well as in the bottoms of pots so when the one inserted into the can or tied to the plant was damaged or lost, there would be one safely inside where I could retrieve it. Pencil on plastic is the cheapest, easiest, fastest and most durable method of labeling all of the seedlings generated annually, too. I've used this method for several thousand plants over the years, and, unless something or someone removes the label (which has happened a few times with the seedlings in the seed planters), they are always there, legible and easily found. Kim |
|
| I agree, Kim. Pencil works best in the garden. I've bought every kind of garden/permanent marker there is and they all fade in a year or two. I found with the embossing that they were to hard to read easily. I had to get me nose down in there to actually decifer them, especially once they got dirty. I like the big bold black and white of the labels. I can read them easily even from a distance. I don't bend like I used to, lol! |
|
| Are you saying you're not as "bendy" as you used to be, Seil? LOL! Who is? Kim |
|
| Lol, exactly, Kim! No Gumby here! |
|
- Posted by henry_kuska z5 OH (kuska@neo.rr.com) on Thu, Feb 2, 12 at 1:01
| I use a black oil based paint pen. They can be found in art supply stores. |
|
- Posted by cupshaped_roses (My Page) on Thu, Feb 2, 12 at 12:46
| I use my printer - and laminate the prints - and put them in cheap stainless steel spring holders - this rose was planted in 2004 ...
|
|
| Kim, are these the ones you use? I keep mine next to my computer so that while I'm online I can make more--that doesn't mean I'm good about actually taking them outside and putting them on the roses!;) I get these at a local nursery, Mt. Fuji, in Upland, CA.
On mine I write the name, class, date and name of breeder (plus country), and where and when I acquired the plant. For example for Europa's Rosengarten the label shows Europa's Rosengarten Here are some plant markers/signs used by Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden in Claremont, CA. Btw I asked about the markers, and they told me that they try to always put the ones with the accession number on the south side of the plant. So if you really want to know what it is, search for that marker (sometimes 2 different kinds are used--one in the ground the other wired on the plant). The signs are more prominent and contain more info.
The last 2 above were on the same plant of R. minutifolia. What I like about what they are using is the heaviness of the wire gauge. I'm looking to find a wire that is a bit more substantial than what came with the Cole's (very fine--sharp looking too for rose canes!) and yet is still flexible and easy to work with and will fit through the pre-punched holes. Melissa |
|
| Thanks Melissa, yes, those are the ones I've used for decades. I love them. I've been amazed how much thinner they've been made over the years. When I encounter an old one with the telephone pole thickness wire, compared to the eyelash thickness wire of today, it surprises me. Kim |
|
| Now that I've read all these great ideas, I want to redo my labels...or at least continue on with printed labels. Is this the kind of P-Touch printer that any of you are using? |
Here is a link that might be useful: P-Touch Printer
|
| For wire go to Lowes or Home Depot and look at the electrical wire. You can get it in any gauge you want and it's very flexible and vinyl coated to protect the plant. I buy a spool of the stuff and use it for all kinds of things around the house. Comes in colors too! |
|
- Posted by karl_bapst_rosenut 5a NW Indiana (rosenut@rosenut.com) on Thu, Feb 2, 12 at 23:46
| I got the PT-2700/PT2710 printer, Got it at Woot for $20 three years ago. Amazon often has them cheap. Amazon is where I buy the tape cartridges also. |
|
| I think that's the same model I have, Karl. I've ben buying the tapes at Officemax. I'll have to check out Amazon, thanks! |
|
- Posted by queenbee_1 7 (My Page) on Sun, Feb 5, 12 at 1:34
| Just purchased a PT-1090 and a roll of the extra adhesive laminated tape..I think it is going to work great.. So happy for this post.. |
|
| I ended up with PT-2030 (prints up to 5 lines) and 3/4 inch laminted tape off of Amazon. I can't wait to make all the new lables! Thanks for the great suggestion :) |
|
| I don't think it matters so much which P-Touch model you have. The important thing is to get the heavy laminated tapes for outdoor use. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Roses Forum
Instructions
- You must be a registered member and logged in to post messages on our forums.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review the contents and make changes.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- It is illegal to post copyrighted material without the owner's consent.
- HTML codes are allowed in the message field only.
- No advertising is allowed in any of the forums.
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.