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lynn2112

Belinda's Dream & Black Spot - In Need of Help

Due to my climate being so arid; blackspot and fungal disease are not something I have encountered much of at all. The extent on blackspot on a small plant; my 5 month old Belinda's Dream, purchased as a band this summer, and planted about 10 or so days ago is very disconcerting.

I do not spray anything but insecticidal soap in April for aphids. Do you all have any suggestions regarding how to handle this problem on a "young plant"? Please help.

Lynn

Comments (11)

  • catspa_NoCA_Z9_Sunset14
    10 years ago

    Many of my roses (including Belinda's Dream, Gruss an Aachen, Fred Howard, and Grus an Coburg and most of the Pernetiana-types) have blackspot now, but fairly soon they won't, come spring. Happens most years, even in this dry-ish climate (what's left of the natural vegetation around here is "semi-arid grassland").

    I tend to not think of it as a problem and ignore it, because it goes away by itself when the weather gets warmer/drier and I won't see it again until next December, maybe. Those leaves would or should be gone, in any case, if I weren't so lazy; sometimes I strip them off if I get tired of the "ugly".

  • Lynn-in-TX-Z8b- Austin Area/Hill Country
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Catspa,

    It seemed to me based upon posts that some people remove roses prone to blackspot from their gardens because it is unsightly or they use different organic and chemical measures to remedy the situation. Is there no fear of death, stunted growth etc,. relative to such an infection on a young plant?

  • mamuang_gw
    10 years ago

    I'm surprised to hear that your BD suffers black spot. My BD is one of a few heathy roses I have. I'm on the east coast.

    Just wonder if yours will get better resistance as it grows bigger?

  • catspa_NoCA_Z9_Sunset14
    10 years ago

    True, mamuang, my BD (in a pot waiting for a permanent home and thus not the happiest camper) has a lot more PM than BS or what looks like BS (not that that's anything to be proud about...). The experience of others indicates she fairly disease-resistant in most places, and I have certainly observed many a disease-ridden potted rose become bullet-proof once in the ground and mature.

    Another consideration, Lynn, is that even though you and I have only nominal "winter" (winter temps in Livermore and Las Vegas more or less similar, though Livermore doesn't get so hot in the summer), roses are still not doing much this time of the year, even with leaves still on, and are not likely to suffer too much stress from leaf loss. My neighbor across the street, a true rosarian, actually strips all the leaves off his many roses to enforce dormancy (I can only stand in awe!).

    As my susceptible roses only tend to lose leaves they "should" lose, or in worst case, only the first flush of spring leaves, I tend to not worry, even if they are young. Now, if it became year-round, serial loss of leaves (as happened in MA where I have also grown roses -- some obviously the wrong ones, because they dwindled away and died from the fungal pressure), then it could be a problem.

    I think BD is tough as an old boot, and I certainly don't see BS on her other times of the year, though PM does occur later.

  • Lynn-in-TX-Z8b- Austin Area/Hill Country
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Hi,

    Here's the image.

    I also follow the protocol of stripping all of the leaves from, and cut down mature, grafted roses right about now. The pruning cuts are sealed and the roses are sprayed with dormant oil. Most of what is in my yard now is new, so no winter pruning or "forcing dormancy" will occur for years. I cleaned up my mature climbers today but that's it for the season.

  • michaelg
    10 years ago

    The central leaf may be burned rather than diseased. Soap spray can burn.

    BD is resistant to blackspot in most gardens, but it is quite susceptible to cercospora spot disease. If you can get sharply focussed images of spots, we'll take a look. Cercospora spots show through to the underside of the leaf, and old spots can develop into large areas of dead brown.

    If you defoliate and collect the old diseased leaves, that will interrupt the cycle. It spreads by airborne spores from old and fallen leaves in mild weather with rain. Leaves can live for a couple of months after infection.

  • Lynn-in-TX-Z8b- Austin Area/Hill Country
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    Michaelg,

    Thank you for your response.

    The underside of the leaves are clean. Many on the antiques forum thought the issue is frost damage. The rose has not been sprayed with anything, and the issue has only existed for about three weeks.

    I purchased a larger own root plant to replace this one. I will likely place it in a 2-3 gallon pot and replant it next month someplace else in my garden or gift it to a relative when it becomes healthier.

  • farmerduck NJ Z6b
    10 years ago

    Are you using pebbles as mulch? I would have guessed that the stone might heat up the surface as it obsorb and retain heat. Can it be good for the rose?

    Random thought. Maybe someone who has real experience/knowledge on the subject can shed some light....

  • Lynn-in-TX-Z8b- Austin Area/Hill Country
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    farmerduck,

    No. Weeds grow like crazy here; actually many roses do too. Xeriscape gardens like mine are very common in many parts of the Southwest. These yards the often include decorative rock, well, for decoration. It also helps to suppress weeds.

    The rose in the photo has a 2" layer of mulch surrounding it, and then the rock is surrounding the outer layer of the mulch.

  • dublinbay z6 (KS)
    10 years ago

    Can't too much fertilizer cause a "burn" also on the leaves? At least I seem to remember there is such a thing as nitrogen burn. But maybe I'm remembering wrong. Anyone else know?

    Kate

  • Lynn-in-TX-Z8b- Austin Area/Hill Country
    Original Author
    10 years ago

    B.D. Has only received a very weak dose of fish emulsion(1/4 strength) and the last feeding occurred in early October.

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