|
| Howdy,
A lurker here. I've been reading till I'm blue in the brain. Still confused (easy for me). Here's the dilemma: I have 10 bareroot roses being delivered today from Palatines. I have never grown roses before. Can you please walk me through caring for these? 1. Best way to plant.
Please help this newbie. bob |
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| Bob, I think this is too much stuff for one post. Maybe you should raise some of the topics separately after you have planted. Planting: Pls describe your soil to get advice about soil preparation. |
|
| Yes, all of the above Soak the plants in a bucket overnight, covered with black plastic bag to prevent sunlight reaching roots and plants. Dig a hole about a bucket size or at least deep enough to spread roots, and let grafting point be at least 4 inches below ground level. If you can get your hands on good cow manure compost or regular compost and some bone meal you can mix this with the soil from the hole you just have dug. About 1/3 of compost to 2/3 soil works well, and about a cup of bone meal. Make a mound of the soil mix at the bottom of the hole to help spread the roots when placing the bareroot. Fill in with the soil-mix and step lightly on the soil when finished to make sure there is no air gaps between roots and soil. Water generously, make sure it is soaked all the way down. Some make cones of cardboard or plastic to protect the newly planted roses from the sun the first few weeks. They are very tender the first 4 weeks. They need to be water every day or every other day if it doesn't rain. It's often not recommended to fertilize newly planted roses until after the first flush, some don't fertilize until next spring. If you really want to fuzz with your new roses you can water the plants with some kind of half strength liquid fertilizer every 14 days after the plant have leafed out, but stop any fertilizing after july. There are perperations of mychorizzal fungi availailabe in garden centres, it is a type of benefitial micro organism which stimulate root growth and speed up the development of cuttings and bareroots. Though it is most useful in soils were not much is growing or haven't been cultivated in years. Best of luck |
|
- Posted by grandmothers_rose z6 VA (My Page) on Thu, Mar 15, 12 at 12:45
| Depending on the varieties you ordered, fertilizing and spraying can be simple. I fertilize with cow manure compost twice a year and (this year) am going to spray with a fungicide--Bayer Advanced Disease Control for Roses Flowers and Shrubs--at least monthly. Start spraying when the roses leaf out. I have already sprayed once. Don't know if it will be sufficient fungicide application, but it will be more than I have sprayed in the past 10 years. The Bayer is usually only available at Lowes or online. Yes, I have only survivors in my garden and shovel pruned a number of roses that couldn't take my "care". I DO NOT spray insecticides. My preference, make your own informed decision. |
|
| I don't plant as deep as taoseeker suggests. I set the top of the graft just barely below grade. It will work either way. |
|
| Hi, Bob! Has anyone pointed out the search feature on this site? It is a wonderful resource for almost everything. WARNING....Roses are addictive! |
|
| michaelg, yes, I must admit I have roses with graft half in daylight too, but it always seems a bit risky. I have begun to plant my roses a bit deeper, in my garden they seem to stick up after a few years even if I plant below ground level. So now always 3-4 inches deep. With larger roses I want to go ownroot, I plant them more diagonal, sort of 45% angle and at least 4 inches deep. |
|
- Posted by bigbob7777 6b (My Page) on Thu, Mar 15, 12 at 17:42
| Ya'll are awesome. Question; is the graft readily visible (roses not delivered yet)? If not, is it below where the branches separate from the main trunk? Do you soak the whole plant overnight; or just the roots? bob |
|
| I live in Kansas so the graft must be below ground level to survive the winter. Of course they could have sat outside in a pot and survive the winter we just had. |
|
| Bob, You'll be able to easily see the graft. It will be a "ball" type knob under where the canes are, and above the roots. :) |
|
| The canes diverge directly from the graft. Below the graft is a straight shank, which is rootstock material, originally a cane of the rootstock variety. Below the shank is the natural crown from which the roots diverge. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Roses Forum
Instructions
- You must be a registered member and logged in to post messages on our forums.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review the contents and make changes.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- It is illegal to post copyrighted material without the owner's consent.
- HTML codes are allowed in the message field only.
- No advertising is allowed in any of the forums.
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.