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| my roses are already showing blackspot. Can someone tell me how to get rid of this? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Look for Bayer Disease Control and spray them. Don't get the Bayer 3 in 1 or 2 in 1. Just use the disease control. You don't need the other stuff. |
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| If your region is like mine, you will need to get the Bayer Advanced Garden Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs (I think that may be the full name) from Lowes. The other big box stores (like Walmart,etc.) don't carry it. Or google it and order it online. Kate |
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- Posted by mike_rivers z5 MI (My Page) on Thu, Mar 8, 12 at 11:06
| Maybe the surest way to get the Bayer product suggested by Seil and Kate is to look at the label. It should list tebuconazole as the only active ingredient. |
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| And it will control blackspot very effectively. |
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- Posted by northtexasdude 7b (My Page) on Thu, Mar 8, 12 at 11:38
| I will say this, knowing that every garden is different so it may work in yours, or may not. In my garden it appears to have killed two birds with one stone. During my first year of rose gardening I had a TERRIBLE blackspot problem, not to mention aphids. I really didn't do anything about it until the second year. When the aphids appeared I sprayed the infested leafs and buds with a spray bottle full of water, a tablespoon of liquid dish soap and a tablespoon of vinegar. I believe I heard about this somewhere in these forums. Anyways, the slightly soapy water causes the aphids to dry out, and they are all dead within 24 hours. I also NEVER had a blackspot problem again (I spray ever year). Some say the vinegar changes the pH of the leaves which prevents blackspot, I don't really know. It may just be a coincidence. I have also heard that this can burn your leaves if sprayed in the midst of a sunny hot day. Others may want to chime in if they ever tried this with good or bad results. For me it has served double-duty for my garden in which I am scared to spray hard chemicals due to the hummingbirds that are always buzzing around. |
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- Posted by rebeccah_2009 9 (My Page) on Thu, Mar 8, 12 at 13:40
| thanks |
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| Whatever you choose to spray do it in this order. Water them well the day before. In the early morning the next day when it is cool spray the roses. The next day water them again. Never spray anything (except plain water) if the temps are over 80 degrees or going to be that high during the day. Even soap and/or vinegar will burn the leaves if it's too hot and sunny out. And for your own sake never spray if it is windy. I would be very careful of home brews. I've tried several and my roses had some very bad reactions from them. If you want to try them I would test them on just a few first to see how they do before I would spray everything. On store bought products ALWAYS read the label carefully and follow ALL of the directions. |
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- Posted by rebeccah_2009 6 (My Page) on Thu, Mar 8, 12 at 14:40
| Its 80 degrees or higher all summer here in tn. Does that mean no spraying for me? |
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| No, it means you have to pick your days and times. It's very warm here most of the summer too. Most people will tell you 90 degrees but I say 80 degrees because on really sunny days even at 80 things can burn. Early morning and cloudy days are best. Just stay away from days when you know it's going to be very hot AND very sunny all day long. |
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- Posted by rebeccah_2009 6 (My Page) on Thu, Mar 8, 12 at 21:22
| ok thanks |
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| I always spray on either a Saturday or Sunday morning. In Atlanta, there's a least a month (maybe more) of days where it's 80 degrees as soon as you get up. I've never had anything burn if I spray in the morning and use commercially-recognized products such as Bayer, BannerMaxx, Funginex, Compass, etc. IMHO, you will burn very easily with most "home brews," fertlizer mixed in with the spray, or Daconil. Daconil is an excellent contact BS killer, but it's risky spraying it if temps rise above 60 degrees (or somewhere around there - just don't try it unless things are cool). Better to use Mancozeb/Manzate/Pentathlon - it's not as heat sensitive and as noted, I've used it many times above 80 degress - but not in mid-day or afternoon sun. |
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| Tom is correct, the modern synthetics like Bayer and Banner won't burn in normal weather (I don't know about Arizona). To be extra safe, I water before spraying and spray in the morning. Things that are more likely to burn include copper, sulfur, oils, and soap. |
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- Posted by henry_kuska z5 OH (kuska@neo.rr.com) on Fri, Mar 9, 12 at 21:25
| The European Union has banned tebuconazole as of 2018. http://digitaljournal.com/article/265134 Apparently the reason for the ban is: "Due to the potential for endocrine disrupting effects, tebuconazole was assessed by the Swedish Chemicals Agency [3] as being potentially removed from the market by EU regulation 1107/2009.[4]" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tebuconazole --------------------------- Abstract: "The ethylene-bis-dithiocarbamate mancozeb is a widely used fungicide with low reported toxicity in mammals. In mice, mancozeb induces embryo apoptosis, affects oocyte meiotic spindle morphology and impairs fertilization rate even when used at very low concentrations. We evaluated the toxic effects of mancozeb on the mouse and human ovarian somatic granulosa cells. We examined the parameters such as cell morphology, induction of apoptosis, and p53 expression levels. Mouse granulosa cells exposed to mancozeb underwent a time- and dose-dependent modification of their morphology, and acquired the ability to migrate but not to proliferate. The expression level of p53, in terms of mRNA and protein content, decreased significantly in comparison with unexposed cells, but no change in apoptosis was recorded. Toxic effects could be attributed, at least in part, to the presence of ethylenthiourea (ETU), the main mancozeb catabolite, which was found in culture medium. Human granulosa cells also showed dose-dependent morphological changes and reduced p53 expression levels after exposure to mancozeb. Altogether, these results indicate that mancozeb affects the somatic cells of the mammalian ovarian follicles by inducing a premalignant-like status, and that such damage occurs to the same extent in both mouse and human GC. These results further substantiate the concept that mancozeb should be regarded as a reproductive toxicant." H. Kuska comment: Are there any medical Doctors in the house? |
Here is a link that might be useful: New Mancozeb research
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| Way to go, Henry. You never disappoint - at least 7 years by my count, maybe more beyond my time here. ;-) |
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- Posted by henry_kuska z5 OH (kuska@neo.rr.com) on Wed, Mar 14, 12 at 10:55
| Recent organic blackspot report. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Recent organic blackspot report.
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- Posted by ken-n.ga.mts (My Page) on Wed, Mar 14, 12 at 11:32
| Henry----Give it a rest. When God dies and leaves you in control, THEN may people will listen to you. Everyone is entitled to an opinion. You have yours, I have mine and everyone on this form has theirs. I don't try and stuff my opinions down anyone's throat and I'm not to wild about anyone trying to stuff their opinion my throat. I'm pretty sure most folks on this form feel the same way. Supplying information is one thing. Stuffing information is another thing all together. I know I'm wasting time trying to ask you to slow down a little but state you opinion and don't take over a topic just because other people don't bow down and kiss yor big toe. |
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| Please let's not have personal attacks. I've learned useful things over the years from rosetom, Ken, and Henry. Seems like posting abstracts and links is a relatively polite and non-confrontational way to introduce one's point of view. Although I use synthetic fungicide, I'd be delighted if some herbal extract turned out to be effective. |
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- Posted by ken-n.ga.mts 7b/7a (My Page) on Wed, Mar 14, 12 at 17:36
| I'm sorry about what I did and said. I've been very sick the past few days and I guess I got PO'ed and run my mouth off. I just read what I said and it was a little on the rough side. Had nothing to do about roses. I was wrong. Keep it about roses. |
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- Posted by mike_rivers z5 MI (My Page) on Wed, Mar 14, 12 at 20:45
| Good heavens, Ken-n, you are the first person I've ever heard on any forum, anywhere, to apologize for being harsh to another poster. You have my sincere respect. |
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- Posted by ken-n.ga.mts (My Page) on Thu, Mar 15, 12 at 17:25
| Back to black spot. Today was my first day in the garden since March 5 when my brother died. Ran to Kansas, the whole family was sick. Said good-by to my brother, headed back to Georgia. Got home on Sunday, sick as a dog. Finally got out in the garden today. Everything in pots were a little on the dry side. Did a quick check and sure enough, several bush's have black spot on the new growth. Watered everything real good and pulled all the spray equipment out of winter storage. Will be spraying everything real good tomorrow to get everything back in good order for the spring flush. I use Mancozeb, Banner Max and Ortho's Funginex. This is the first time in yrs. I've missed not getting started when I needed to. I chose to grow several roses that will black spot if not sprayed. My choice. Now it's time to get everything back in good order. |
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| Henry thanks for the organic blackspot link, maybe someone at Bayer will read it. I'm of those people whose trying to stick to the natural stuff. I was reward yesterday by seeing honey bees all over my Hakuro Nishiki. I can't tell you how many years its been since I've seen any in my yard. Now I can't help but wonder where are the bumblebees. |
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