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| I planted a Strike It Rich rose bush about 2 weeks ago in an eastern-facing garden (sort of ESE). The sun hits that spot in a filtered way in the morning and then full-on later. I believe it gets sun from about 8 or 9 a.m. to about 3 p.m. The bush still has all its leaves, it looks nice and green, but the buds that were on it when I purchased it still have not opened. I dug a hole about 2 or 3" wider than the pot it came in, added lime and Osmocote Plus to the hole, mixed those in with the soil I removed (which was already amended last year with bags of topsoil and peat moss) and then planted the rose at the level it was in the pot, tamping it down lightly. Do you think it's getting enough light, and did I plant it correctly? |
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| I also planted a strike it rich rose a week ago. that is plenty of sun hours and also it will get at least two more extra hours when the days get longer in june thru the first part of September. |
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| It may have more to do with the temperature than the amount of light it's getting. If it didn't get enough light the chances are the rose wouldn't have any buds at all, or only a few. I think it will do fine once it's warm enough for it to want to bloom. |
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- Posted by mad_gallica Z5 Eastern NY (My Page) on Sun, May 4, 14 at 17:10
| The light sounds adequate. Not more than that, but it should be enough. The peat moss might be a much bigger problem. It is very hard to rewet if it dries out, and very slow to dry out when it gets wet. So it really isn't suitable for use somewhere the moisture levels aren't carefully controlled. The other problem is the level the rose is planted at. Most roses you buy at the garden center are grafted. Most potted grafted roses are planted with the bud union a few inches above the soil level because otherwise it would take up too much valuable pot space, and there isn't any reason for it to be buried. However, it helps a lot with wintering if the bud union is buried in the garden. |
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- Posted by meredith_e 7B Piedmont NC (My Page) on Mon, May 5, 14 at 9:47
| I definitely agree with mad gallica about the peat moss, but I still use it, because it helps so much in our hot summers here with clay soil that becomes a tight brick very fast. What I end up doing is watering the very top of the soil lightly when it threatens to completely dry out (so that the peat there doesn't dry out and become impervious to water later). In spring with the frequent rain, I don't usually have to do that. Deep watering is much less frequent even in summer, because the peat down below keeps the lower parts moist. Your climate may be different, but do watch (and feel) how the texture goes in your springs and then summers! |
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