|
| I've never had rust or Mildew until just recently. I found yucky leaves on Francis Meiland and will have to use Bayer Diseas control on it. It looks as if FM has passed this on to 2 plants close to it, Pope JP, and Peace. Does this happy often? andreark |
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| I've had roses close to each other have it but don't know with certainty whether they've passed it on or all the roses are susceptible. I don't ever spray and instead pick off all the infected leaves I can find and put them in the trash. If a rose is badly or continually infected that rose doesn't stay in my garden. I'm not about to poison insects and animals when there are other roses available that don't get rust. A small outbreak will often resolve itself but if it happens over and over I have zero tolerance. Ingrid |
|
| It's probably much like the chicken or the egg issue, Andrea. The spores are everywhere, blowing in the wind and traveling on you and anyone else who walks through your garden. When they fall on the right kind of tissue, that tissue is susceptible to their infection and the conditions favor their germination, the rose contracts rust. Whether others actually "catch" it from the earliest contractors or from the original spores which were present and simply didn't contract it until conditions were severe enough, who knows? Of course, the more infected leaves there are, the more spores there are to blow around. Rust isn't a pretty thing! I hate it most of all the diseases. I agree with Ingrid, the best "control" is the liberal use of a shovel. Those most susceptible to it leave my garden...quickly. Kim |
|
| Thanks Kim and Ingrid. The first Francis Meilland that I had developed an agressive type So I used Bayers Advanced Disease Control. I drenched the FM and This weekend, I will (very carefully) remove all diseased leaves This would be a fine experiment. I remember my mother's Thanks again, andreark |
|
- Posted by jacqueline3 9CA (My Page) on Mon, May 5, 14 at 15:39
| The best control for rust I have found is: First, remove all of the affected leaves - hold a paper bag underneath them while you do that, and pop them directly into the bag. That way any spores you knock off will fall into the bag, and not blow around and land on clean leaves. Close the bag carefully and put it in the garbage - not the green recycling. If you want to spray, spray the new clean growth AFTER you have removed all of the diseased leaves. I would spray any nearby roses also. Rust is partly a function of susceptible roses, but also a function of climate - evidently it is mostly a West Coast disease. I have no idea why. Jackie |
|
| And,this month, around here, it seems unusually prevalent and probably related to weird weather. I have roses that have never had rust before become afflicted within the past few weeks: practically all the Portlands (not so surprising, actually, but mine really haven't rusted in the past), here and there on other classes; you can even find a spot or two on normally spotless teas like Etoile de Lyon, and others, if you look closely. I'm giving them all a pass this time, based on past history of no significant rust, and chalking it up to a rare set of conditions. |
|
| Thanks Jackie, I will remove the leaves with a bag underneath...That sound like a very careful idea. I have, however, already sprayed the the B.A. I thought that it might kill the spores before I 'jiggle' them around.But I will be careful anyway when removing the leaves. I think I may have caused some of the problem myself. For several weeks (not Knowing what it was) I removed leaves and tossed some on the ground and some in the trash. I probably Thanks again all, andreark |
|
| Thanks Cat also. I have only had rose beds for 22 months now. But that is still 3 blooming seasons for me. I have never had anything but a smidge of blackspot. Misery DOES love company. And because of what Jackie said, I thought of another question. rusty ole andreark |
|
| I almost never saw rust or powdery mildew in Connecticut so why here in Pasadena? The answer has to have something to do with the stress brought about by hot dry conditions here. Back in CT when it was hot it was also humid and almost all plants including roses appreciate high humidity. My house plants in CT used to dry out in the winter due to the dry air in the house but sprang to life when I put them outside in the spring. Plants in a greenhouse do so well because of the high humidity. Nothing likes hot dry air except plants that have evolved to adapt to it but that does not include many of the things we try to grow here in SoCal. Including roses. I absolutely believe that it's the hot dry air here that stresses roses and allows rust and PM to do it's damage. |
|
| Henry, I live in the Delta Bay Area. According the the Weather Channel, our average humidity is 78%....Not nearly as low as southern cal. I still want to know if 'Tebuconazole' will kill rust spores on contact. andreark |
|
| I'm sorry Andrea, I don't know. Honestly, I don't know what the chemical is. I don't use fungicides, period. I only use pesticides when absolutely necessary and never on ornamentals. It's simply a personal choice. I react to many chemicals, many scents, many household cleaners, many detergents. I don't wear anything scented and my friends and family know not to when around me. I avoid the candle and soap aisles in stores and everything about Bed, Bath and Beyond because of the scents and the reactions too many of them generate in my body. My gardening, as with pretty much the rest of my life, is as "homeopathic" as possible. Henry, as I previously wrote, yes, our climate and continual, chronic water stress caused by the extremes we encounter daily, I'm certain help foster the mildew and rust issues. The only times I didn't have rust and mildew somewhere in the old Newhall garden were when I ran overhead, oscillating sprinklers over large areas for several hours daily. As I wrote then, water was cheap and plentiful. Black spot is very seldom an issue except in my pot ghetto where the plants are stressed, often immature and over crowded. Those are often the causes of epidemics among people, so why not plants? Water stress whacks out the immune systems, opening the door for susceptible varieties to go overboard expressing the diseases. I have a seedling I raised last year between Cal Poly (the mini I can force to rust by drying it out) and a Basye hybrid between Laevigata and Banksiae. If I don't water the pot that seedling grows in daily, it mildews immediately. As long as I keep that soil wet, it grows with no mildew. It's the same as it was with R. Arkansana and Cal Poly with rust, only with mildew. Look for extreme water stress, fix it and see what a difference there might be. Kim |
|
| Thanks Kim. I would like NOT to use anything also, but I have picked many leaves off this FM and it just continues to spread. With the little BS that I get, tossing leaves worked fine. But, as Jackie just let me know, you can't touch and toss the leaves that have rust like you can the BS leaves. I just found an article about rust and 'Tebuconazole'. This chemical is only systemic and does NOT kill spores on contact. I am going to be 'carefully' removing and discarding the rusted leaves. And I certainly hope the the one shot of Bayer will do the trick. But if not, I will have to use the dread substance again. I used it twice last year for something that I found later to NOT be BS. But I don't wan't to use it any more than absolutely necessary. Thanks again all, andreark |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Roses Forum
Information about Posting
- You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
- Please review our Rules of Play before posting.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
- We have a strict no-advertising policy!
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.
Learn more about in-text links on this page here
