I'm not sure that is just RMV. I'm not saying it doesn't have it but that looks like there are other problems as well. Usually RMV shows up the worst when a plant is stressed for some other reason.

Blackspot is usually the only fungal issue we have down here, and I spray fungicide bi-weekly. Do you think it's possibly a nutrient deficiency? I have horses and cows, so I put manure down early spring and then monthly fertilizer.

I'm with Seil.
I think you probably have RMV -- but I think there are other problems.

Can you get a really closeup image of a couple of leaves?

Jeri

Below are the best I have right now...will try to get closer shots in the morning. Most of the troubled leaves are starting to dry up and brown in places now, but initially they were bright yellow and green with no brown.
I was going to spray fungicide and for Japanese beetles tomorrow...should I skip spraying this one until its issue is determined?

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I would skip spraying. The plant seems to be under stress, and chemical sprays should never be sprayed on a stressed plant. RMV is very probable, though those brown veins and yellow petioles tell me there may be more going on that just RMV. If the plant is stressed by a deficiency, mutant genes from the virus are more likely to express. Such may be the case here.

I think its nutrient deficiency. I use manure and compost as mulch last winter on most of my plants and shrubs. We got A Lot of rain this spring, the shrubs and trees that I didn't put manure on, the leaves have a strange variegated pattern. Realized that they needed food, poor things.

Thanks everyone for trying to help. Secret's Out is one of my favorite whites, and I'd really like to get her healthy. I put manure down early spring and then use 12-6-10 fertilizer monthly during growing season. I can't use the Rose Tones, Holly Tones, etc...if I put that down, my dogs eat it off the ground from around the plants and then dig the plant up. I spray Bayer fungicide bi-weekly and spray for Japanese Beetles when they are present. Here are some closer shots of the leaves. Let me know what you think I need to do.

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I've been googling and looks like maybe a magnesium deficiency? My monthly rose fertilizer has magnesium in it, but I can put down some Epsom salt if that might help?

I find it amazing one lack of a certain nutrient can do so much damage, but i think you're right it sure does look like the many picutres of magnesium deficiency on rose leaves. I would absolutely give it a try, and please update us as your rose recovers!

Wait-- This is almost certainly NOT Mg deficiency. In magnesium deficiency you have green veins (with a wider green band over them) and yellow between the veins. Linked page has a good image of Mg deficiency in rose (scroll down or do a find for magn). This is exactly what it looks like on rose leaves. It begins on the lowest leaves.

On the OP's plant you have the opposite, yellow veins. This is called "vein banding" and it is one one the possible symptoms of RMV.

It looks like the world's most hellacious RMV outbreak, except I have never seen the purplish-brown color that appears on some leaves. RMV patterns are created by the absence of chlorophyll, and they are normally white, yellow, or light pink. But if these leaves grew out with these discolorations, as opposed to developing them gradually, I would guess it is RMV.

Another issue in the picture is the cupped leaves.

Since you say the plant is doing better, I would just pull off the ugly leaves and see what happens. If this happens again, get rid of it.

Here is a link that might be useful: AZ deficiency

This post was edited by michaelg on Sat, Jun 29, 13 at 16:28

I don't think it's RMV, either. It almost looks like previous-season leaves that are dying out this year. Sometimes you can get some really wild colorations in the dying leaves (like autumn leave colorations).

RMV doesn't usually follow the veins - it makes its own patterns, thus rose mosaic.

It may be a nutrient deficiency and Michael is correct that the cupped leaves may be another important symptom.

Tom, see the linked photo of RMV producing yellow veins. If you search on-- rose virus vein clearing-- you will find many more. It is not the most common symptom, but it definitely is an RMV symptom. Again, this is the opposite of what you see in deficiency of Mg, Mn, or Fe.

As you suggest, one can expect to see vein clearing (vein banding) in leaves that are dying of senility or water logging. However, the OP says these leaves have been like that since April. RMV leaves stay the same from opening throughout the season, whereas senile leaves die and fall off. However, I guess it's possible that some varieties retain their overwintered leaves until July 1.

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:288568}}

This post was edited by michaelg on Sun, Jun 30, 13 at 14:34

I prune in late January and if any leaves are still hanging on at that time, I remove them. I donâÂÂt think the affected leaves opened with the yellow patterns, but it didnâÂÂt take long for the yellow patterns to start. The purplish brown you are seeing in the photos isnâÂÂt actually purpleâ¦itâÂÂs crispy brown where the leaves are now drying up in those spots. Water logging was mentioned. We were having a very, very rainy spring when the problem startedâ¦constant heavy rains for days at a time. Also, the bush has grown to be very close to a sprinkler head. I was actually going to move the bush this spring due to that, but didnâÂÂt get that done before the leaf issue started. I didnâÂÂt want to stress it more with a move, so itâÂÂs getting hit directly by the sprinkler when I run it now. I didnâÂÂt run the sprinkler this spring due to all the rain we were getting, but now I run that zone for 25 minutes about three mornings a week depending on our weather. I can turn that head off and start manually watering there if thatâÂÂs contributing to or causing the problem. Also, about the leaf cuppingâ¦possible causes?
Again, thank you all for your suggestions and help.

To check for water logging, you can stick a pry bar or something 8"-12" deep and sniff for the smell of sewage or anaerobic decay. The simplest treatment for poor drainage is to raise the soil level around the rose six inches above grade, in a couple of stages. The rose will adapt by sending feeder roots into the drainable soil. Most feeder roots are quite near the surface because they need oxygen.

However, if the rose has been waterlogged for months, I think the leaves would have died and dropped off long since. But then, necrotic (dead, brown) spots are not normally characteristic of RMV. Also RMV usually shows as soon as the leaves expand.

Cupping of leaves could result from deficiency of calcium or molybdenum, from powdery mildew, or just at random. I don't think the discoloration you have is characteristic of Ca or Mb deficiency.

Although the name RMV has been utilized in this discussion, one does not know which virus or group of viruses is/are giving these symptoms (if it is virus caused). Leaf cupping is often listed as a possible rose virus result. The link below is rather old (1998), but it appears (to me) to be years ahead of its time regarding the viruses of roses.

"In general, symptoms of virus and viruslike infections that are visible on the leaf may include overall chlorosis (yellowing) or chlorotic mottling; yellowing, or clearing of the veins; green or brown banding of veins (a dark green or brown color that parallels the veins); yellowish green to bright yellow spots and blotches; and various fine lines, some resembling an âÂÂoakleafâ pattern and others appearing as erratic, wavy âÂÂwatermarks,â or as definite rings (Figure 1). The leaves may also be misshapen, puckered, recurved, cupped, twisted, brittle, and smaller than normal. In some cases, the leaves are cast prematurely. Canes often have shorter than normal internodes, resulting in stunting or severe dwarfing of the plant, or a âÂÂballingâ (rosette growth) of the new terminal growth. In some cases, there is severe cane dieback. Only one or a few canes of a plant may exhibit symptoms, or the entire plant may be affected.
With some of these diseases, only the new leaves and canes develop symptoms; with others, it is the mature, older leaves and canes that are visibly affected. Usually, the higher temperatures and drier conditions of summer inhibit virus or virus like activity in the plant. As a result, rose plants that had symptoms of infection in the spring commonly resume normal or near-normal growth in summer. With a return of cooler temperatures in autumn, symptoms often reappear, depending on the variety of rose, the strain of the virus or other agent, and environmental conditions. Although rose plants may seemingly tolerate infection, with symptoms appearing and then disappearing during the year, the agent does exert an overall debilitating effect and may eventually kill the plant. Aside from the acute symptoms that develop on leaves and stems, the plant suffers a chronic decline in vigor that, in cooler climates, increases the chances of winter-kill. Infected plants also show a decline in flower production and quality. Flower petals may show mottling, distortion, and line
markings."

Here is a link that might be useful: link to 1988 article