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gardenfanatic2003

Osmocote

gardenfanatic2003
16 years ago

Do any of you use Osmocote on your roses? If so, how much do you use?

Deanna

Comments (17)

  • bean_counter_z4
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I use. I apply exactly as recommended on the label.

  • roseman
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Follow the labelling instructions. Remember that roses are heavy feeders, so Osmocote, by itself, will not suffice for the whole blooming season. The nice thing about Osmocote is that it can be applied when you prune in the spring, but will not kick in until the soil temps hit about 70 degrees. Use something else every month during the blooming season, and let the Osmocote fill in the cracks. Try to get their Sierra Blend, because it has all the minor elements in it that all roses need for good blooms.

  • gardenfanatic2003
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I didn't see anything on the label about the amount to use for roses, that's why I was asking. As far as the instructions for individual plants, all I saw was 1/2 tsp per bedding plant, but I assume a rose would need more than a bedding plant?

    I've never seen "Sierra Blend." I'll have to look for that.

    Deanna

  • Jeannie Cochell
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I think they used to, maybe still do, put a measuring spoon in the container. If memory serves me (and occasionally it still does), it's about 1 TBL per mature bush.

    It's a common last feeding-before-summer for this area and I add it when moving up miniature roses.

  • michaelg
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    There should be instructions for shrubs, ie roses. It's somewhere around 1/2 cup or 3/4 cup, cetainly not a matter of teaspoons. It should supply all needed nutrients for the labelled period, except if temps are routinely in the 90s or there are protracted flooding rains-- then it will run out earlier.

  • karenforroses
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My soil is quite sandy and I'm always adding organics to build it up. Because of the soil, I have to feed a little heavier than someone with clay in their soil. I supplement our Rose Society's organic fertilizer (2 cups in May and 2 cups in July) with 3 rounded Tbsp. of osmocote per mature shrub. I also give the roses about a half cup of 10-10-10 in early spring. And i mulch well with compost and shredded bark. This seems to be the best "menu" for my soil and my roses. Every garden, however, is different and it takes time to see what works for you.
    BTW - our group's organic fertilizer is made up of fish meal, bone meal, blood meal, alfalfa meal, cottonseed meal, and azamite. Works great!

  • Jeannie Cochell
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My apologies. It's 1 TBL when planting new roses and that's what I use for mature mini roses.

    The label on the container varies per plant but reads (quote) For established roses, sprinkle 3 tablespoons of Osmocote for every 2-ft x 2-ft area surrounding the plant, working it into the top 1-3 inches of soil or mulch.

    Gardenfanatic, I'm curious as to why your package doesn't have these instructions.

  • gardenfanatic2003
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Believe me, I looked all over that label (with my glasses on), and there were no instructions for shrubs of any kind. Maybe my Osmocote is a different kind than yours. It's the one with a green label. The nutrient charge is 14-14-14. I chose that one because I used to work at a nursery, and that's the one they use on their plants, including shrubs.

    Moroseaz, thanks for the info. I'll have to write that on the container so I'll know next year. This year, I just guessed and put 2 tsp on my minis and 1 TBL on my Knockouts. Sounds like I under-fertilized!

    Deanna

  • michaelg
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The amount depends on the labelled time span, ie the 9-month Osmocote would call for over twice as much as the 4-month, etc. The long-term forms have beads of varying thickness intended to distribute fertilizer fairly evenly throughout the span. If you are fertilizing a 3 x 3 area, it would take about twice as much as a 2 x 2 area.

  • Jeannie Cochell
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Mine is the pink label. I don't see more label colors available in our area. This year I'm using Bayer slow-release ("guaranteed not to burn roots"). Yeah, whatever. The sun's burning the living daylights out of the leaves so what's a few roots? Calling for 117F here tomorrow, sigh.

  • michaelg
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    How many months is the 14-14-14 labeled for?

  • jeff_zephyr
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Karenforroses: Hi! Would you mind sharing the exact quantities for each ingredient in your Society's organic fertilizer, if it's not a secret.

    Thanks.

    Jeffery

  • gardenfanatic2003
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    The 14-14-14 is for 4 months, which is appropriate for my area since I live in the Midwest. Wouldn't want a 9-monther, or it'd be going into winter.

    I used up all my bottle over the weekend and bought a new one today, and voila! Directions for shrubs. Not in tablespoons, but as in a capful per 2 feet of spread.

    Deanna

  • Malcolm1
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I used it on my old garden roses.It worked on the LaMarque but the Cramoisi Superior did not do so well.Blooms would not open.

  • Jasminerose, California, USDA 9b/Sunset 18
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I stopped using Osmocote, because the prills were not dissolving and they were building up over time. I didn’t think this was good for the environment, so I contacted the Scott's company for a response. Below is the reply I received:

    From: "consumer.services@scotts.com"
    Sent: Wednesday, March 5, 2014 2:12 PM
    Subject: Scotts Miracle Gro Contact Center Response Ref #11326425

    The Osmocote Plus prills are designed to be applied as a granular and are not dissolved in water. The prills absorb moisture from the soil causing them to swell. The nutrients are then slowly released through the prills special coating to the plant's root zone. The prills will not wash away nor will they disappear.

    Thank you for taking the time to contact us and for your interest in Scotts. Please feel free to contact our company anytime we may be of assistance.

    Hilary

    Ref # 11326425

  • sammy zone 7 Tulsa
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    This is an interesting subject. I have always thought that you were to fertilize at the drip line. Osmocote does not go too far in my garden, but I toss it in from the drip line yet not close to the main canes.

    I also purchase cheaper fertilizers to use since I have so many roses. Yet I realize that most of you have more roses than I do. I think in the next couple of weeks we should fertilize or forget it for this year.

    Sammy

  • taoseeker
    9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Osmocote is a very mild and efficient fertilizer, but can be a bit on the expensive side if you have a large garden I think.The major advantage is even release of nutrients through the coating of those tiny pearls. The benefit is great for plants in pots and anuals where you can mix the fertilizer in the soil and replace the soil next year. I know nurseries prefer this stuff mostly because then they don't have to worry about anything other than water.

    I don't use it as much as I used too, I still might for potted summer flowers though, but not for roses and perennials in the ground. I get noticeably healthier plants when I use different organic amendments and fertilizers. I use regular composted cowmanure, well composted bark and wood chips, and dry seaweed meal. I have to buy most of it in bags because my garden is too small to produce enough on its' own, but it still comes out fairly well prize wise compared to osmocote and the more advanced artificial fertilzers. I really like the seaweed stuff (!) Once in spring I might add pelleted chicken fertilizer, or I use some type of other organic stuff with at least as much potassium as nitrogen. In summer when the roses are starting their first flush I apply a second round of less smelly organic stuff.

    For plants in the ground compost and organic amendments are much more important than loads of phosphorous. In the soil super phosfate will bind to different substances and over the years it builds up. It doesn't stay water soluble that long. For roses and perennials to be long lived and healthy we need the soil to be healthy and active too. When organic stuff is added regularly (once or twice a year) it makes sure there are plenty of earth worms and microlife to work the soil and keep nutrients available to the plants. This is at least how I have approached the subject after total failure with a large rose- and flowerbed I had years ago. I can almost promise healthier and more longlived roses when switching to organic fertilzers. I would however not recommed a lot of chicken based stuff, it is very high in nitrogen and too low in potassium to be used on its' own. I only use it in spring, but it depens on the type of soil you have how much or often you can use. Low nutrient soils can benefit from more frequent applications of it a season or three. If you can get the sort of well composted chicken manure that doesn't smell at all (looks more like soil) it has much lower nitrogen to kalium ratio than the pelleted stuff. Roses use a lot of energy to set flowerbuds, at least the reblooming varieties, and they need a lot of potassium. When we use composted manure and organic stuff regularly there tend to be plenty of phosphorous with out any more effort. Then you don't need super phosphate or osmocote. Seaweed adds more trace elements than practically any fertilizer on the marked.

    I post this because I love roses and gardening, and I love reading posts on this forum even if it is a long time since I lived in San Francisco (I live in a much colder place now). Still, my experience is that organic stuff makes it much easier to have success with roses.

    :- )

    This post was edited by taoseeker on Tue, Aug 26, 14 at 10:59