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Another quick question deadheading
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Posted by
containerfreak42 Louisiana (
My Page) on
Fri, Jul 6, 12 at 9:20
| Hi again just a quick question, I have read on here to deadhead to prune back the the first 5 leaf below the bloom I have tried this and the cane continues to die down the cane and some canes completely die!!! But I have noticed that if I just remove the petals and let the bud die naturally that the cane stops dying naturally and you can just remove the dead stem!!! I don't want the canes to continue dying on me!! Any suggestions would be appreciated!!! I am verrrry new to gardening and especially roses!! |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| It's been years since I've tried to follow that old dictum about the 5-leaflets. I don't know anyone who still deadheads that way. When you have lots of rose plants to tidy-up, searching for the precise point to snip is a pain in the neck, and significantly increases the time necessary to complete what is never a very enjoyable garden task. I try always to deadhead without taking any leaves. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| It sounds like you're open to tolerating some spent blooms on your roses without feeling a need to hack them off as soon as the petals fall. For me, at least, this makes deadheading a lot easier. If I wait just a little longer to clip those blooms, usually the rose will show me the proper place to cut by sprouting some new growth. I look for the new shoot & cut somewhere around 1/4" above it. And like you say, some of them need nothing. Depending on the rose, I might be able to just walk by & flick off the spent blooms. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| I've been growing roses for around 40 years and I never saw or heard about any deadheading technique causing canes to die back. There is some other cause. You didn't read about the 5-leaflet thing here unless to hear people scoff at a beginner's question about it. If the plant is still small and weak, the best thing to do is to just pop the flowers off when they are done. Don't let hips form, as this wastes energy that would go into growth. Don't worry if the smooth neck just below where the flower was dies back--it is supposed to. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| What could cause the canes to die??? The bush looks otherwise healthy? It is very hot and I water at least every other day. I fertilize once a week with miracle grow for roses. I do have clay soil and I know that is not good!! But I did amend the soil in the planting hole about 6 inches around and in the bottom if the planting hole!!! But as I said I am a newbie...I planted 3 last year and 2 are doing well with the exception of the one mentioned above. I planted 9 more new ones this year!!!! So any and all help is needed!!!! Thanks to everyone for their reply!!!! |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| I deadhead any roses with more than about 10 heads to pop off, with hedge clippers. I do manually pop heads on the smaller / younger guys. For 80 roses takes about 10 minutes a week. Have never seen cane die back. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| You're fertilizing too frequently under the best of circumstances -- and given the heat most of us are experiencing, WAY too frequently. Rose growth tends to slow under these conditions, so fertilizing now only increases the plants' stress. I would suggest that you stop fertilizing immediately and, since you've been applying fertilizer so heavily to roses in a retentive soil, refrain from doing so for the remainder of the season. It would be helpful to know where you garden. Do you know if the rose varieties you planted are known to thrive in your locale? It might also help to know about the roses at the time of puchase -- if they were bare roots, in containers, with their roots contained in plastic bags, etc. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| Yes--stop fertilizing, and never exceed the labelled dose of fertilizer, which represents the maximum dose that you can give without doing damage. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| I live in central Louisiana, the roses are planted in full sun, and they were in containers when I purchased them...I bought them from a reputable local nursery but I have not done any research to see if they do well here?? Where could I look for this type of info..and also how often should I be watering I water with about a gallon of water per plant usually every other day or more often if it is really hot? Thanks so much to everyone who has replied!!! I really appreciate it!!!! |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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- Posted by seil z6b MI (My Page) on
Fri, Jul 6, 12 at 14:14
| I dead head mostly by just snapping off the spent bloom. If a plant has gotten too big or grown in a funny direction I'll take off cane to the length I prefer. On new plants it's best not to take off a lot of leaves so the plant can continue to produce food for growth. Keep watering through this heat but layoff the fertilizer for now. They're really hot and tired too and don't need to be pushed for more growth. For good information about roses go to "helpmefind(dot)com(slash)roses". They are a wonderful data base of rose information. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| We could attempt to recommend varieties that might perform well in your region of the South, but it would be much more helpful and informative for you if such information came from someone who gardens in your immediate area. I'm posting a link the American Rose Society's list of local societies. There are several in LA. I suspect one of them must be located in your general neck of the woods. Most local groups have members who have been certified as Consulting Rosarians. Those folks are knowledgeable about all aspects of rose gardening and provide rose-related information as a public service. I suggest that you contact one of the individuals listed. Chances are you will encounter someone who would rather talk roses than eat. |
Here is a link that might be useful: ARS Local Societies
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| One gallon every other day would be OK for newly planted small plants in moderate weather. But mature roses in hot weather (mid 90s) can use about 6 gallons per week. It sounds like you are giving adequate water or close to it. After the roses have been in the ground for a couple of months, give larger amounts at longer intervals, for example 5 gallons once a week or 3 gallons twice a week. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| How much you should be watering depends on a number of variables. In heavier soils, it's advisable to water slowly (to maximize absorbtion/minimize runoff) and deeply. The use of soaker hoses is a good way to accomplish that. Unless you water deeply, especially with new roses, roots will remain underdeveloped and close to the surface. The situation becomes particularly critical during prolonged periods of heat and drought like that being experienced now in my coastal section of the South. A good layer of mulch is another essential in keeping your roses well hydrated and reducing evaporation. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| Are you growing your roses in containers ? I am asking because of your user name. If you are growing your roses in containers, there are a lot of variables which can impact the health of a rose. The watering requirements and fertilizing requirements are different than for roses planted in the ground. Deadheading should not cause any die back. Something else is going on with the plants. Are you disinfecting your pruners between roses ? That might be very important until you find out what is the cause of the die back you are seeing. Smiles,
Lyn |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| OMG..So I am the idiot. I still though prune down to 5 leaves..that's what I always do. Good to know I don't have to. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| Pruning down to a 5-leaflet-leaf WILL probably give you longer, stronger, bloom stems for cutting (or exhibition) and if you're doing those things, and your roses are mature -- KEWL. I think the OP is working with immature plants, fairly recently out of nursery 5-Gals. In his/her situation, I would snap off dead blooms, and leave it at that. But, NEXT YEAR, when those same plants are mature and well-established, GO FOR IT. Cut them down to a 5-leaflet leaf, if that rocks your boat (or don't, if that works for you.) Jeri |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| I follow the 5-leaflet leaf pruning religiously ... but not on immature roses. Pruning can cause dieback if your pruners are infected and the conditions are just right. It's possible to get a bit of canker fungus in the pruners' anvil and you can spread the dieback to many roses. Or, canker can enter the new wounds on pruned canes and progress on its own - if the conditions are right. During those times (usually Spring time when it's cool and damp), it's best to disinfect the pruners and/or cane ends. Daconil is available in a spray bottle and can work well for something like this. |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| Thanks everyone SO much!! I am just going to continue to water and do some lite deadheading no pruning and just let them get established!! If I put mulch around the bushes should I make sure the graft is above the mulch? |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| Hi Lyn I have my roses planted in the ground but thanks for your reply!! I do grow most of my other plants in containers my soil here is hard clay and most plants do not like it...but I am trying to learn to amend the soil and see if I can just get things established lol I want a lush garden but it is a struggle to get anything to grow here!!! |
RE: Another quick question deadheading
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| Yup... I am having to study up on how to amend soil, too. I do know that it has taken years of mulching to improve the soil in the rose beds in the glacier slurry. This is the first year that it has been more friable. I guess we just keep learning as we muddle along. Good luck with your roses. Smiles,
Lyn |
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