What roses are they?

Do you have a photo?

I am not from your zone but hopefully some one near by can help you out.

You made a mistake by cutting them back last fall. In your zone you should not prune your roses in the fall. Wait until spring. The roses store nutrients in the canes and you cut that supply off when you pruned them. That being said, last year was a particularly bad winter and you probably would have lost most of the cane anyway. Nothing you can do about that. We all started out with shorter than normal roses this spring. They'll need time to recuperate and rebuild their structures. Knowing what roses you have will also help us to determine how large and bushy you can expect them to get. Roses can take from 3 to 5 years to fully mature so be patient.

As for the puckered leaves we really would need to see a photo of them to be able to diagnose what's going on. Why are you using the Bioneem oil? Do you have a bug infestation? If not then you don't need it. If you do not have a specific insect that you have correctly identified and are using the correct product for that bug, you could be killing off beneficial insects instead. That could set you up for an even worse problem later on. Only use insecticide when you have a bug, know exactly what bug it is and determine the correct insecticide to use for that bug. Not all insecticides work on all bugs. For now I would keep them well watered and fertilize them following the instructions on the fertilizer carefully and be patient.

If the roses had blackspot and lost all their leaves, they would not be able to generate enough energy to bloom. Instead of bioneem oil, you need to use a fungicide to prevent black spot. The curly leaves could be from the bioneem oil if you use it at too strong a strenght. Also, organic feed is better than chemical feed. Rose Tone is a good one.

This winter was bad, and the spring wasn't great. I am in zone 7 and I still have roses that I've had to cut back because of winter damage. You have a much shorter growing period. I would be a bit more patient.

what type of soil do you have? did you amend it before planting? I always use triple mix 25L bag and mix it into the soil about 3 ft wide 3 ft deep then I plant the rose and it takes off like a beanstock

I never bother spraying my roses for black spot its a battle I end up losing anyway so why bother most of my roses are resistant anyway blackspot is a natural thing that comes with roses especially HTs

last thing if you want big shrubs buy roses that are hardy to your zone at least zone 4 I live in zone 6b and most of my roses except for the HTs are hardy to zone 3 that way I never have to worry about die back during winter

I agree with all of the above. Since these were just planted last year, and you chose carefully to avoid HTs, I am hoping that you still have the names of the roses you did plant. That is critical to getting good advice - please let us know their names.

Jackie

In most northern places, it is very difficult to buy roses that are remotely truly hardy. It takes a fair amount of research, and then getting the plants by mail order. Simply avoiding hybrid teas isn't good enough. Plenty of 'hardy' shrubs are really only crown hardy, so they will die back and have to regrow most years.

A lot of rose advice is regional, so knowing where you are will help, as will knowing the names of the roses you have.

I would also like a clarification on what Bayer product you are using. All-in-one, or 2-in-one, or 3-in-one? Most of those products already have a fungicide in them (for blackspot) so I'm not sure why you are also using neem oil. Does it do something else?

For a good Bayer fungicide without all the waste and excesses promoted by the all-in-one type products, use Bayer Garden Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs. You will also need to buy some inexpensive spraying equipment from a place like Home Depot.

Those all-in-one Bayer products also have insecticides in them. Most posters on this forum avoid those insecticides. If you have an insect problem, take pics and show them to us and we may be able to suggest solutions that do not involved insecticides (that can also kill bees and other good critters).

Did you check on how resistant to blackspot those roses were before you ordered them? Disease-magnets can be found in practically every category of roses. Sometimes it takes some serious research to come up with disease-resistant roses in each of your categories you want for your garden. Even then, depending on the disease pressures in your region (whatever it is), you might still need to spray a fungicide occasionally.

Yes, it can take several years for roses to settle in and begin to really mature.

Kate

What kind of roses did you plant? If they are Rugosas or have a lot of that species in them, spraying anything but water won't be a good idea.

:-)

~Christopher