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Transplanting roses in 8a (Portland Oregon)

Posted by Kippy-the-Hippy 10 Sunset 24 (My Page) on
Sun, Aug 19, 12 at 12:39

My cousin, with a brown thumb, just asked when she can move some roses that are by a deck. Guessing they have been there a while.

She is in Portland Oregon, Zone 8a, but on the gorge side and gets a lot of cold winter wind.

Thanks


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Transplanting roses in 8a (Portland Oregon)

Got to be safest when the roses hit winter dormancy (they do, don't they, in Portland?) which for us, in zone 8 UK, is uaually around mid November. Don't think our zones correspond to your zones but, given any kind of choice, I would always plump for a move in dormancy - however, they are fearless on this forum, and will move them in midsummer heatwaves - there is always loads of advice - how old is the rose and how long can she hang around?


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RE: Transplanting roses in 8a (Portland Oregon)

I will check with my cousin on the ages, I know she can get some snow or freezes. And it is hot hot hot right now.

Thanks Camp


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RE: Transplanting roses in 8a (Portland Oregon)

well, there is an argument for getting it done as soon as possible. The warm and hospitable soil will encourage a rose to grow away, making new roots easily. If a large enough rootball can be dug out of the ground, it can be moved now. As always, there are a lot of buts.....If the rose is a bit tricky to get to, it might be much harder to lift a massive clod of rootball at the same time. The roots must be as undisturbed as possible so make sure the soil has been well watered during the previous 24 hours - this will help to keep the rootball together. Once manouevered out of the ground onto a tarp, it must be transplanted as soon as possible - make sure the new hole is already dug and ready. If you can get hold of mycchorhizal granules such as Rootgrow, this is exactly the scenario for which they were devised. Shake granules around the planting hole and on any exposed roots (the granules must be in direct contact with roots in order to establish a symbiotic relationship). Cut back as much top growth as feels reasonable (a third, even up to half, depending on what sort of rose it is) and water, water, water.
So Kippy, get as much info from your cuz, then the helpful forum folk will be happy to suggest away.


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RE: Transplanting roses in 8a (Portland Oregon)

  • Posted by seil z6b MI (My Page) on
    Tue, Aug 21, 12 at 15:18

I think it depends on how much time there is left before she gets her first hard frost. If it's not until late fall (like at least mid November) she may be able to move them now. But I mean NOW! They need enough time to settle in and start to grow before they go dormant. Otherwise I'd wait until early spring when they begin to wake up and move them then.

My first frost date is supposed to be around Halloween but lately it's been closer to Thanksgiving. Even so I'm very hesitant about moving roses in the fall. Anything I've planted late hasn't made it through the winter for me.


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RE: Transplanting roses in 8a (Portland Oregon)

Just jumping in on this thread with another PNW rose question. I live down south and am looking for information on getting roses going. I found this article on how to grow roses but am curious to know if others might have other suggestions on where to grab some of this information?

Thanks so much!


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RE: Transplanting roses in 8a (Portland Oregon)

jmmcd3, you should get Paul Zimmerman's new book! See this thread:
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg0219470026995.html?3

I haven't read his book yet (oh, I'll get it!), but I've been to events at his old nursery, and he knows his roses. His advice would also be US advice, which is important because a lot of times the British advice isn't as right for our weather and diseases, etc.

Good luck!

As for the OP, I just like it to be cool. I've moved roses in the heat, but that was because I was moving. I don't worry about them at all as long as it's cool enough and I can water them frequently as they get settled into their new spot. If it's hot, it takes more watering and there still can be too much stress. Most still make it, but cooler weather is better.

I don't have to worry about winter kill, so that would matter if it applies. I wouldn't risk winter stress with a tender variety. In both cases, just think of the growing weather that causes the least stress on the rose and try to do it then if possible, imho.


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