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| Hi-- I am fairly new to growing roses, but I am loving learning! I have one very tall bush (6 ft?) that grows many gorgeous, very fragrant pink roses. The problem is, it is all growing from 1 very thick, 2 ft. tall single cane. Should I cut all the foliage off, and leave about 6 inches of this single cane to thicken it up at the bottom? I don't want to kill it, but it's getting so top-heavy I'm afraid it will blow over in the wind . . . |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Did you buy and plant it? Maybe it is a "tree rose," grafted on a trunk and meant to be like that. If so it will have multiple shoots emerging from a graft bulge at the top of the trunk. The trunk is a different variety, so you mustn't cut below the graft. These plants are usually provided with a stout metal stake. Bush roses that are unhappy sometimes develop into "one-cane wonders," but these usually have sparse tops that aren't very productive. |
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| Hmm. I don't think it's supposed to be the way it is-- maybe a picture will help? I've never really pruned it, other than cutting off dead flowers, because I was afraid I would kill it, and it's such a beauty. The scent is unbelievably fragrant. I'd absolutely be heartbroken to lose it. Yet . . . all the growth is so top-heavy I'm sure I'll have to do something soon. |
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| It's such a beautiful flower-- do you think I should cut it off at the base? Do you think it would sprout back out? |
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- Posted by annececilia z4a/N.Michigan (My Page) on Tue, Aug 21, 12 at 18:58
| You don't say what zone you are in; makes a difference how hard you can cut your rose back this time of year. But I would say, don't cut back the main cane. However, you could shorten each lateral, or side cane to about 2 or 3 leaflets - if it really is a climber. OTOH, you could just provide this rose with support and see if it pushes out any new canes (basal breaks) from the ground next spring. Do you fertilize it? (Although again, depending on where you live it may be too late to do so this year.) |
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- Posted by mike_rivers z5 MI (My Page) on Tue, Aug 21, 12 at 19:18
| I agree that it would be useful to know your location (if you call that a very thick cane, my guess is you're not in California). I assume your rose is grafted and it would be useful to do a little digging with your hands to learn the state of the graft - how deep it is, what fraction of its upper surface area is taken up by the single cane and so on In my experience, feeding a rose alfalfa, either as a tea or as a meal, and especially in the Spring, is one of the very best ways to induce new basal canes. |
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| We are in VA, zone 6 or 7. It's hard to tell from the map. So far it's not climbing anything-- just branching out and branching out on top. I planted this rose last summer and fertilized it then, but not since. The main cane is about 1 1/2 inches wide. And, yes-- since I'm new to rose growing, I haven't seen many large canes. This one seemed very large to me :) Remember-- I'm learning :) So I shouldn't cut all the way down to the main cane? And try alfalfa to see if it will sprout from the base on its own? |
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- Posted by mike_rivers z5 MI (My Page) on Tue, Aug 21, 12 at 20:15
| Esyke, I didn't mean to poke fun at you with my feeble attempt at humor. If you do a google search with "how to induce basal breaks", you will get a lot of useful suggestions. I think one good one is that described by John Mattia in the enclosed link. He suggests carefully uncovering the bud union and exposing it to the sun. |
Here is a link that might be useful: John Mattia's method
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- Posted by roseblush1 8a/Sunset 7 (My Page) on Tue, Aug 21, 12 at 21:02
| Mike... that's a great link and quite useful. Altho' I live in California, I might as well be living in a different state when it comes to climate factors as I live in the mountains of northern California and have to work with a shorther growing season along with other variables. esyke623 .... from your photo, your rose is a budded modern rose. This is totally the wrong time of year, in my experience, to try to rejuvenate a modern rose. You really don't have enough time this season for the plant to grow new, productive wood and harden off before the winter season sets in and the new wood becomes vulnerable to the woes of winter and the plant naturally slows down and does not put on new growth due to colder temperatures and a different quality of light. Most modern roses never truly go dormant because along with the genes necessary for recurrant bloom included in their breeding, the have the genes to always be evergreen. Unlike the roses that truly go dormant ... lose their leaves and pull their nutrients down to be stored their roots, the evergreen roses may lose their leaves, but they store the nutrients to get through winter and for the first spring flush in their canes. If you cut the canes off, you have just created a food shortage for your rose. The time to prune and rejuvenate modern roses is in spring. You have a greater chance of success because you are working with the natural cycle of the plant. For now, just help the plant to be as healthy as you can going into winter. Smiles, |
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| Hi Mike-- no offense taken. I just didn't want you to think I had made a stupid observation if roses are normally much larger-- I just don't really have any experience to compare it to. :) Just learning as I go! Thank you so much for the link. I did find it helpful. So there will probably be a little knob under the soil? That's what it seemed, from the link. I should uncover that, keep it watered, and it will grow shoots? I think that's worth a try! Thank you! Emilie |
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| Lyn-- thank you so much for the advice. That makes a lot of sense. Do you think it would grow back if, this spring, once frost danger is over, I cut it down to about 6 inches from the ground? Or should I just get a support for it? It's not a climbing rose-- but it's so bushy I think that, if it's going to stay this size, it needs support. Of course, I'd rather it was supported from a strong base . . . but I don't want to kill it when cutting it down to the base . . . in my limited experience, rose pruning seems like a nail-biting event! :) |
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| hi esyke, welcome to the rose forum. I'm in the northern VA/DC area. For a new rose in August, I think your rose looks terrific -- most roses in my neighborhood are defoliated from blackspot and heat stress now while yours has lots of healthy green leaves. I would snip off the dead blooms and shorten the side branches by several inches. You will get another flush of blooms in October and the plant won't be quite so top heavy. You could feed it again now with fish emulsion or lawn fertilizer since we won't have really cold temps until January. Don't give any alfalfa until March. In spring, I'd feed alfalfa and Rose Tone and add more mulch. I WOULD NOT cut the main cane. Good luck! Oh, and buy some more roses to plant along that fence. Caring for five or six is as easy as caring for one. |
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| OK--It's not a tree rose or a climber. but a modern bush rose, probably a hybrid tea. As mike_r said, there is probably a graft swelling just below grade. As others have said, it is probably too late for radical pruning in zone 6. If you force new canes from the base, they might not harden enough to survive winter undamaged. You could take a foot or two off the top now, or add a stake to support the top-heavy growth. In early spring, roses in zone 7 are usually cut back to around 18", or shorter if there is winter damage. With good care, your rose will fill out next year. With a hybrid tea that has a lanky growth habit, you can take a foot or so of stem when removing spent blooms, aiming to maintain a blooming height of 4-6' during mid and late season. The flower resembles 'Parole' aka 'Buxom Beauty,' but that variety has only been available for a few years. |
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| I went out today and pruned it just a little . . . I cut off all the dead flowers and about 6 to 8 inches off of each side branch. The weight seemed to lighten immediately-- I could almost hear the main cane sigh with relief. :) I am going to try rooting those cuttings in perlite with rooting powder. I have just started trying this . . . but my cuttings, even though some of them get roots, always seem to die before I can transplant them :( Not sure what I'm doing wrong. But since I have all these extra cuttings, it's worth a try! :) |
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