I dunno who got that last one Vintage offered. Several posters here, including me, tried for it. I hope whoever did will be able to get it growing & share with you.

By the way, how DO you bud roses that are marginal on their own roots? I fumbled around trying to slip tiny buds of Talisman onto some nice rooted Ragged Robins--argggh!
I guess I'll have to wait for bigger canes, but that's kind of a paradox--if it made good fat canes I wouldn't try to bud it.

Also, are the budwood slips that UCDavis sells suitable for rooting or just budding?

Thanks bluegirl. The Davis material can either be used for budding or rooting. I'd suggest trying both with whichever you obtain. Hedge your bets. If one fails, the chances are the other may succeed.

For really tiny buds, such as those I received nearly two weeks ago, I modified Burling's Chip Budding Method. The whole trick is to expose the cambium layer, just under the bark, without going through it into the pith. There must be sufficient cambium to cambium contact for the bud and stock to knit and the bud to grow. So, instead of trying to lift the bark, leaving the cambium layer intact, and sliding the bud under the flap, I VERY carefully remove the bark (skin), leaving as much cambium over the pith as I possibly can. Then, instead of having to slip the bud under the bark flap, I can simply place it squarely on the exposed cambium and tie it down. These were budded two weeks ago this coming Monday. The first shot is on Pink Clouds. The second is on Cardinal Hume. The third are the remainig bud sticks containing the buds which were simply too small and immature for me to bud.
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I've inserted three buds per stock because there was room. My goal isn't to produce a finished product at this step. I want to get the variety established in my garden first. Once the buds are growing, I'll have more to either bud or root, depending upon what time of year it is and what stocks I have ready.

I traditionally have no luck rooting anything this time of year, but I was given a bag of seed starter mix by a friend who decided she didn't like it, so I decided since I had the four pieces of bud wood, containing growth buds too small and immature for me to try budding, why not experiment? I moistened the seed starter mix, treated the cuttings with Dipn' Gro and shoved them into the seed starter mix. They're under other potted roses to provide them filtered sun in the protected front walled garden where I grow my wrapped cuttings in later winter to early summer. I water the seed starter mix daily as it drains very well, yet remains moist. There were no leaves pushing twelve days ago. You can see what they're doing from the photo. The tallest one has to be that long because I harvested the buds from its middle for budding. They are all pushed very far into the mix to keep them cool, dark and damp, all conditions necessary for callus and roots to form. As hot and dry as it has been the past twelve days, I think if they didn't have a chance of success, they should have already died on me. I'm hopeful because of how good they look, but they could very easily push leaves then collapse. But, there are six buds and four cuttings, so something should work. I also tried a grafting method Ralph Moore showed me many years ago, but evidently I didn't get the cambium matched well enough as it has already turned brown, indicating it has failed. Kim

Wow, that's cool!

1.) What did you wrap them with?

2.) In the second shot, are those baby buds poking through the tape?

andrea

Thank you! The top bud in both stocks appear to be turning brown. The remaining two in each are still green, which is a good thing! The lowest one on the Cardinal Hume stock is pushing very quickly.

I use what Sequoia used. It's a medical supply product called Parafilm. It's used to cover petri dishes like a saran. Mine is a 4" wide, 125' long roll which I cut into strips of varying widths (all 4" long) depending upon the guage of the stock and size of bud. I just searched for the product and found they are now making a grafting/budding tape. If it's anything like the medical product, it's great. It adheres to itself and lasts about long enough for the buds to take, then rots off. It won't girdle the stock or bud, either. I was surprised to see how the prices have risen! A fellow Huntington volunteer (easily 25 years ago!) worked in a lab and she bought the roll for me for $6. The list for the same roll is now $68, with prices around $50! If you use it, keep it cool, meaning don't leave it anywhere direct sun can shine on it as it will melt to itself. Mine has always been kept in the house and it is still perfectly fine after all these years. You peel off the paper backing, hold the loose end securly against the stock and bud, then stretch the tape as you firmly wrap it around the stock and bud to create as firm a bond between the two pieces of rose material as you can. You can't wrap it too tightly as the film will break before you can hurt anything. When it does, just continue wrapping until you feel the pieces are securely joined together. It'll work. Kim

Here is a link that might be useful: Parafilm Grafting Tape on Ebay

Thanks for the detailed instructions & photos!

I got Parafilm earlier this year on Amazon for around $6 for a 50' roll of 1/4".

Great! You're welcome. Keep the Parafilm cool and it will last forever. Kim

Oh, do you remove the wood chip on the tiny bud so that there is more cambium to cambium contact with that method?

Also, have you tried Moore's method of rooting tiny slips by cutting them under a bud then rooting?

P.S. I started a batch of cuttings in an aeroponic cloner today using Clonex sol'n & Dip'n'Grow. It roots softwood cuttings from perennials FAST. Didn't do as well with roses 1rst try. This time they're inside--it's too dang hot, even in the shade outside.

I use a new single edge razor blade for budding. With practice, you learn how to slice the bud out of the stick with no pith on the back. It makes all the difference. I've never had a knife as sharp or as easy to manuever as a single edge razor blade.

I've not played with many techniques he showed me over the years. Many of them just aren't suitable without mist. He played with everything and every method just to see what would work. He had some pretty interesting methods. Good luck with your cloner! Kim

Thanks again! Yeah, I need to set up at least a primitive mister again. It made a huge difference in my success percentages.

Our water is so mineralized here that I'll have to replace mister heads but with one of those little "porch cooler" sets the cost is pretty modest. Paid 20 bucks for the last one.

I would love to see some home made misters.

I keep thinking of using a 5g bucket, a cheap timer, and some drip system tubing with the mist heads and seeing what I can figure out

You can make yourself a very nice misting system, using one of those Patio Misting Systems, coupled with an inexpensive battery-operated timer. Be sure that your timer can be set to come on every hour or two.

In MY water, you need extra nozzles, so that you can soak a set of them in white vinegar, when the minerals build up and block the nozzles.

Jeri

The easiest "mistake" to make with a mist system is to not get the duration and frequency set appropriately for your humidity levels. Where the evaporation rates are high due to aridity, you need more frequent mist spurts, of possibly greater duration. Where humidity or lack of heat reduce evaporation, it requires much less mist at greater intervals.

In Sherman Oaks, where jiminshermanoaks lived, he could mist his cuttings by spray bottle twice a day and they would work quite well. That canyon was continually cooler, damper and foggier due to the marine layer invading the valley through it than my hotter, sunnier hillside just eight miles away, but as close to the physical water. Here, I would have to spray every few hours (no exaggeration) to accomplish the same results.

Probably as important would be the choice of rooting medium. Half and half builders sand and perlite is what we used in the old mister at The Huntington and with fog for ten seconds, every minute in full, southern sun and exposed to the wind worked perfectly when temps were high. Of course, somewhere like Camarillo, where it's twenty degrees cooler on average and the humidity is greatly higher, the medium could be heavier with less frequent fog/mist of shorter duration or they would more easily rot. Kim

Jeri,

Have you set up such a system that is not directly attached to your actual water lines? Due to the old hose bibs, probable leaky pipes, etc, we turn off the supply of water to the garden when we are not actively using it. So I would have to supply the mister water in a bucket or something similar (was thinking 5g buckets)

Don't ya hate it when you are busy typing a reply and a new message posts and you miss it.....

Kim

I was thinking of using some kind of larger sized "clear" plastic bin to keep the humidity up, but with holes drilled through the bottom so excess water could drain out. Would you think only hand misting with a water bottle would still work with that type of system? Was planning on a fairly dappled sun shade area so nothing cooks in the bin. I could fill the bottom with gravel and do holes on the side of the bin so the rocks stay wet to keep the humidity up but the pots say out of the water

This post was edited by Kippy-the-Hippy on Sun, Aug 25, 13 at 22:15