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| I just received an email from a local well respected nursery that they are offering 60% off whatever roses they have left on-site.
I've never planted roses late summer here in NJ and was wondering what anyone's opinion on doing this might be. Obviously, I'm not going to prune/fertilize at this point in time. But, if there is anything interesting still there, it might be a good chance to pick them up cheap. Opinions? Thanks! |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| I'd leave them because you don't know how they've been treated. They are probably root bound in the pots. I'm not one to risk it. |
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| See, this is why I need you people! That never even occurred to me and is enough to put me off from purchasing them. Thanks! |
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| Pot -bound roses can be planted bare-root. Strip off the leaves and soil, cut back the canes if it seems needed, tear the circling roots loose and spread them out, plant and mound up soil over the base. This could be done right now, or the plant could be kept in the pot until dormancy begins in mid-November. The latter approach might conserve more plant energy, but I'm not sure. This is worth trying if you find a rose you really want at a great price. Roses that have been allowed to defoliate from blackspot may not be strong enough to survive this treatment. We used to have an expert grower here, Ron-the-plantsman, who bare-rooted all of his potted and boxed roses. |
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| Thanks for the info Michael. I do have a question. Wouldn't cutting the canes back (if needed of course) cause the rose to continue a growth cycle which I would not want at this time of year? Or, is it still far away enough from the plant going dormant for winter that I don't have to worry about this? If I remember correctly, I usually would not have been doing much pruning/cutting back by September. I forgot that I could allow the rose to over-winter in the pot, with protection. Of course, I'd only be purchasing if there was something which really called out to me and it would have to be in good health. Thankfully, I do remember enough about growing them to recognize a diseased rose when I see one. |
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| Although fall planting in our zone is not risk-free, I think it would be better for the plant than trying to keep the pot over winter. Formerly, bareroot plants were commonly planted early in the dormant season, which might be mid- to late November in your case. The plants will be pot-bound, as Diane said. The roots will be coiled in circles, which is not good for future growth. Therefore I would tear or cut the feeder roots to spread them out. This will stop growth for a while and cause wilting; therefore I would remove most of the foliage to cut water loss. If you plant now, the plant will probably grow out in mid-October and the new growth would be killed. Therefore I think waiting until dormancy in November might be the best strategy for conserving the plant's stored energy. Again, buying roses in the fall in zone 6 is taking a risk. |
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| Thanks, Sivyaleah, for asking the question and everyone else for the information. I just stopped by a local nursery which is having a 50% sale for potted roses. One of the roses caught my eyes is Fragrant Cloud. The plan is doing fine, even with two beautiful flowers. Unfortunately, I think that it has mildew on it..... If not for the mildew, I would have bought it. |
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| I ordered some new roses from a very good nursery a few years ago, and planted them in Sept. Almost all of them died. In Oklahoma our zone here is 7A. What hurts roses more than anything else is the sudden hard freeze after warm temperatures. We will have even a few weeks of balmy weather that will encourage the roses to leaf out and really start growing. Then overnight the temperatures will plunge way down. The established roses will accept this change, do their thing (sulk in some way), then begin growing again. I do believe that this weather change has hurt more of my roses than anything else. I purchase own root roses, so the established roses can even come back from the roots. But the small rose that has recently been started can have some difficulty. I think I would be tempted to buy what I want, re-pot it, put it in the ground in a pot, and be prepared to jerk it out if the weather does what I described. A nursery here has kept his roses outside in pots all winter, and has loaded the area with mulch. That does not seem to have hurt them ---(Why do I say that? He sells them for fall planting, and would not admit to losing some.) Thanks for reading my rambling, |
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| Thanks everyone. Probably does sound like I should follow my original instincts and just order everything on-line for spring like I intended. Not worth going through the work of planting something only to have to shovel prune it in the end. |
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| I've never had good luck with fall planting here. I've tried it twice and both times all the roses died over winter. If it were me I'd buy them but leave them in the pots, sink them in the ground and mulch them heavily until spring. |
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| The difference between a garden center rose and a band or 1-gal from a boutique nursery is that the garden center rose is 3 years old by now and should have a substantial mass of canes and fleshy roots with stored nutrients. Therefore the garden center rose can be barerooted after dormancy and treated like a bareroot fresh from a grower. Or if not badly potbound it can just be planted in the garden now. However unless you find irresistible bargains, I think it's wise to just order for spring delivery. |
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| I wish I would have read this a few minutes ago before I made a purchase online from J&P! I can never resist a good sale, and they were offering nine 2qt container roses for $99.00 and then I had a 15% off coupon...so I went ahead and purchased my nine (after getting all of my remaining potted roses in the ground this afternoon of course...and I was so proud to have an empty deck for once!!!) Like the others, I still am having difficulty deciding whether or not to get them in the ground ASAP (since they're only coming from SC to TN I should have them by the end of this week), or attempt to over winter them either in the garage or on my front porch with a tarp around the railings to block the wind, and also whether or not I should repot them in larger pot before I do this....decision, decisions... |
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- Posted by grandmothers_rose z6b VA (My Page) on Sun, Jul 22, 12 at 19:12
| Ah, well. I fell for the Heirloom Roses sale last week. The plan is to re-pot them into gallons, bury and mulch them well for the winter, and plant them in the ground in April 2013. TNTY78 -what did you do and how did your J&P roses fare? |
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| TNY, July is not fall planting, plus with the way the climate has been lately, you probably don't need to worry about heavy winter damage. These plants may defoliate from summer shipping, but should survive. So enjoy your bargain. I would just put them in the garden, because I prefer to minimize messing with pots. If you keep them in pots for the winter in 6b, you can just group them in a sheltered place and pile leaves around the pots. Put some extra leaves over the canes temporarily when temperatures fall to 10 degrees. This has always worked for me. |
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- Posted by grandmothers_rose z6b VA (My Page) on Mon, Jul 23, 12 at 21:45
| Really? They will be here around July 30. Do you know if Heirloom roses are field grown? I carefully hardened off my Roses Unlimited order this spring beause they were greenhouse grown. Sure would be easier to plant them than to overwinter them . . . |
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| Heirloom roses are in tiny band pots, and sometimes they are just rooted cuttings. They are from a greenhouse. |
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- Posted by grandmothers_rose z6b VA (My Page) on Thu, Jul 26, 12 at 6:24
| My Heirloom roses came yesterday and the instructions say to plant immediately. The Heirloom roses I bought two years ago are all lovely bushes this year. I planted them within a week of receiving them in early summer, so, I'm gonna plant these, too. Pot ghettos are not my thing, either. |
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