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Dr Huey

Posted by ogrose 8 DFW (My Page) on
Tue, Dec 4, 12 at 22:36

I have three Dr Hueys growing in my yard, and have tried for years to get rid of them - no luck, he just keeps coming back! Have tried to dig out and that hasn't worked for me.

Gorgeous in the spring, one of them gets yellow leaves after blooming, the other two seem to stay healthy no matter what the weather is - so, I've decided to accept him as he is and feed alfalfa just like my other roses, and see what happens!

Mistake? Would like opinions.

Thanks.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Dr Huey

Only a mistake if you don't like him. If he's attractive and productive enough for you, it wouldn't be a mistake. Kim


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RE: Dr Huey

I have two that have sprouted up after I moved roses and I guess left some root stock. One I left because it fit there. It grows alongside a white rose and I like that combination. The other one, I am going to have to remove because I don't like where it is. I do spray the other roses, so I spray this one, but don't really feed it.


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RE: Dr Huey

When I don't want something and it keeps coming back, I cut it to the ground and pour a little stump killer on the fresh cut. It doesn't come back then.


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RE: Dr Huey

cutting the ends and bending them into a can of 1/2 roundup 1/2 water worked for me but tie a bag around the top of the can to prevent the fumes from damaging nearby plants and make sure the can won't tip over.

I've got some huey growing and I'm going to try grafting on it. It's near a crape myrtle tree where I can't dig and so I thought if I could graft something pretty there it would be great.


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RE: Dr Huey

I have several Hueys in my garden. If you want to keep it do. I find that with proper care mine even repeat bloom. I like Dr. Huey. I don't think you're stuck with it though. Kitty's suggestion sounds good.


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RE: Dr Huey

Nope, that's not what I would do.

I would, instead, wait until the spring growth starts in earnest and then use him for what he's best at -- roots.

What you have there is an already established root stock just waiting for a new graft with something you do want.

So . . . look around the yard and decide what (a) looks like its not doing particularly well where it is, or (b) is failing to thrive on its own roots, or (c) that you just happen to really like and want more of, and make some plans.

Come spring, when the sap is flowing whole horses, get out your sharpest box cutters and graft away. Here's a video that shows the process.

On the grafting process, some practice is a really good thing. So maybe get out those box cutters now and sit down with ten or so stems that aren't attached to plants and practice grafting a budeye from one to the stem of another with those until you feel like you know what you are doing. You'll get a feel for the right sizes and so forth fairly quickly.

Have fun, learn a new skill, and get a new rose. What's to lose there?

Here is a link that might be useful: video on how to graftroses


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RE: Dr Huey

Thanks, you all. I actually like the flower and will just keep and treat him right!

kstrong, great idea,just may try that this spring; I'm sure if I succeeded, would be hooked.


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RE: Dr Huey

Be ready for suckers from him under whatever you bud on him. Properly prepared stocks have all the growth buds sliced out of it under the bud union. What you have is either a piece of root which ran under the soil and came up where it wanted, or a piece of root which remained in the soil when something else was dug up. Either way, there are many growth buds down there to produce suckers under what's budded on that plant for as long as you have it.

IF you want to bud, root pieces of him after removing all but the top growth bud from each cutting, then bud on those. For the one already growing where it is, treat it as if it's a rose you want and enjoy it. Otherwise, get ready to battle Huey suckers under whatever you bud, because you will have them. Kim


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RE: Dr Huey

Here's my tip for growers who have decided to keep a Dr. Huey around:

After blooming each year, cut the plant right to the ground, fertilize after the new leaves open, and leave it alone until it finishes blooming the following spring, then repeat. This treatment will reduce blackspot and mildew problems. It will give you an attractive fountain-shaped shrub at flowering time.


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RE: Dr Huey

Thanks Michael. Is it too late now to cut back my Dr. Huey?


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RE: Dr Huey

Wow, that's pretty much what I've been doing, Buford.


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RE: Dr Huey

  • Posted by seil z6b MI (My Page) on
    Sat, Dec 8, 12 at 19:06

I have two that sprang up when I moved some roses out of the end of the front bed that has begun to be too shady for roses. Poor things were starting to suffer so I dug them out and moved them into the sun. The resulting Good Doctors that have come up I've left. I figure if they'll grow and bloom in those bad spots why not leave them be and enjoy them?


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RE: Dr Huey

  • Posted by maryl Z7 Okla. (My Page) on
    Sat, Dec 8, 12 at 19:54

I always say a silent thank you to the powers that be for the fact that since I've been growing roses, mostly HT's, I've never experienced any sucker growth on Dr. H root stock. That's going on 35 years and hundreds of roses. But if I ever do I will remember KD's lemonade theory: If life gives you lemons, make lemonade. KD says: If life gives you Dr. Huey, bud him.......Maryl


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RE: Dr Huey

Whoops, meant to direct my post to michael!


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RE: Dr Huey

Is your Dr. Huey from RMV type viruses certified free stock?


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RE: Dr Huey

  • Posted by seil z6b MI (My Page) on
    Sun, Dec 9, 12 at 12:06

I have no idea, Henry, but I doubt it. The roses I moved were both older roses that Mom had purchased in the 60s & 70s. But they've been in the ground all this time and probably all of the roses she bought that I still have were RMVd and are still doing fine so I'm not going to worry about it.


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RE: Dr Huey

Buford, if you cut back to the ground now or in early spring, you'll get little or no bloom, because only canes that have been through the winter will bloom. If you cut back halfway, you'll get some bloom on an ungainly shrub. Leaving the plant intact through the blooming period maximizes bloom. Cutting back to the ground after blooming reduces blackspot and mildew inoculum and allows clean (for a while) new canes to develop. These will grow about 7-8' long and arch pleasingly if left unpruned, or they can be fanned on a trellis to save space. The plant will need fertilizer and water to replace itself each year.


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