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| I lost a batch of R. Moschata I was trying to root. I'm not entirely surprised since I have no idea what I'm doing, but I was wondering if anyone else had success rooting it. I took cuttings in the fall, but that may not have been the best time for that rose. If anyone has any pointers on rooting it I'd appreciate it! Thanks y'all! Josh |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by melissa_thefarm NItaly (My Page) on Tue, Jan 21, 14 at 0:59
| I've rooted R. moschata from fall (probably around end of October or early to mid November) cuttings, getting 3 plants from 4-5 cuttings. I did it with my usual method, sticking the cuttings in a propagation bed--light soil--outdoors and leaving them there for a year. We're zone 8 here, Mediterranean climate, which means mild but chilly winters, temperatures rarely falling below 20F but tending to stay much of the time in the 30s and 40s, with plenty of winter rain and a good deal of snow. I hope this helps; it's a good rose to have in the garden, and I hear is a good rose for the Gulf coast and nearby. Melissa |
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| Melissa, Thanks for the advice! It sounds like your seasonal temperatures are a lot like mine, though we haven't had much rain this winter. I'm curious to know what you use for your light soil? I've been build a cuttings soil using peat moss, vermiculite, and perlite. I usually mix it to where it has a gritty consistency when watered. Since I haven't tried anything else, I'm not really sure how it stands up to other mixes. Josh |
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| I have good luck in early fall--Sept to mid Nov.--then much reduced success after cold temps are regular. I used to use sharp sand (sandblasting #3) with coir under mist. Don't have misters set up now-- I'm trying 1/2 mix of coir & perlite. Moschata has been a fine rose here, but haven't tried to root it. Did root Nasturana, a wonderful musk cross. |
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| Try eliminating the vermiculite from your mix, Josh. Peat stays pretty wet all by itself. Vermiculite is basically clay (aluminum silicate) and can remain far too wet. A 50-50 mix of coarse builders sand and perlite can remain pretty wet while providing good drainage if you mist or water frequently. Perhaps mixing the peat with coarse builders sand might help? Moschata and its near hybrids can resist rooting until you find just the right time and method to root them. Secret Garden is one. Even for the more experienced, it often thumbs its nose at propagation attempts. Kim |
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| Yeah, I found vermiculite too water-retentive. Most of my mixes were for excellent drainage, as I found most failures due to rot. The COARSE sand/coir gave a mix that clung tightly to the stems without holding too much water. Read somewhere that coir is a bit acid, too. Perlite mix seems a bit loose--doesn't firm around the stems as much as I'd like, though it does let water run straight through. Still, I got some good rooting of teas this fall in it. I've also fooled around with an "Al's Gritty Mix" for cuttings--various combos of pine fines, coarse granite or lava sand & calcined clays. I can't get Turface or pumice here, so have used Napa Floor Dri #8822. Not bad, but I haven't used it enough to say much yet. It is a good dense mix that water percolates through instantly. I used to notice that Vintage's bands always contained coarse red lava grit like Al's mix, along with quite a bit of perlite. |
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- Posted by nikthegreek 9b/10a E of Athens (My Page) on Tue, Jan 21, 14 at 13:59
| I use a 50% cactus substrata (a blonde peat and coarse sand mix) and 50% perlite for all cuttings be them roses or other plants. Sometimes this works... lol Nik |
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- Posted by malcolm_manners 9b C. Fla. (My Page) on Tue, Jan 21, 14 at 21:21
| We root R. moschata year-round with excellent success. We use the same method as for all our other roses EXCEPT we use a stronger rooting hormone -- Hormodin 3 powder, or Dip-'N-Grow at 1 part per 5 parts water. As with all roses, we double-wound them by stripping a thin strip of bark off the bottom 1/2" or so of the cutting, turning it around and cutting another strip off the other side. We stick them in band pots of Fafard #2 mix (peat/perlite/vermiculite). Our mist bed is on 10 seconds then off 5 minutes during daylight hours, and off at night. It is not covered, so the cuttings get full sun at noon (I really believe in bright light for rooting less-than-easy roses). It's outdoors, so temps range from a light coating of ice occasionally, this time of year, to near 100°F in the summer. I don't see much variability in rooting percentage with this rose. When we teach rooting cuttings, we often use this rose, since I can always use more, to sell or give away, and we know we can root it at a very high success rate (generally over 90%; sometimes nearly 100%). I think one take-home message of all the opinions here is that you do what works for you in your climate. The same method may or may not work elsewhere, and if not, try something different until you find the right niche. |
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- Posted by melissa_thefarm NItaly (My Page) on Tue, Jan 21, 14 at 23:41
| Josh, I wasn't scientific about and, having tried just once, probably got lucky with my conditions. I don't have a scientific mix, just add coarse sand and potting compost (peat-based stuff) to our basic heavy clay soil. Any organic matter I can find goes into the propagating beds, including worn-out potting soil and homemade compost, on those rare occasions that we get some into usable shape; the most important thing is to lighten up the soil. I usually get a fair return on my cuttings, but would benefit from being more scientific with the ones I have trouble with. Malcolm, as usual, thanks! Melissa |
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| That's interesting, Malcom, thanks for the info. I started using Rhizopan #3 a few years back & it really improved the take. When I had misters going, I kept the cuttings under full sun & they seemed to do better than the ones I tried in shade. I want to try some Moschata cuttings, now! |
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- Posted by melissa_thefarm NItaly (My Page) on Thu, Jan 23, 14 at 11:13
| I finally got cuttings of 'Nastarana' to root after a number of tries over the years. Oh happy day! Now I have to find a place where it will be happy. Melissa |
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| I have had better luck with some by missing out on the organics altogether (especially in a closed system), - just horticultural sand with a handful of perlite. I intend to have a go using crushed hydroleca (those little clay balls) since reading an article about growing fritillaries in it. |
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| That makes sense, Camp. Organics in a moist, closed situation could foster all manner of pathogens. What you're using would be far less able to feed and promote things to cause "rot", and probably not be as "soggy". Kim |
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