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Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 1:07
| What do you do with last season's leaves that stay on the bush? This has been one of the rare years in which most of my roses kept lots of leaves one. While I took off all the leaves from most of the roses when I pruned back in January, I left them on on some of the thorniest ones, thinking they will eventually fall off. Well they haven't and now I see lots of disease on them. I haven't seen rust for years but now my Rosarium Uetersens, very healthy roses in general, have it. New shoots and leaves are coming out. Should I try to take all the old eaves off? Nik |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by daisyincrete 10? (My Page) on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 7:37
| Nik I generally leave the old leaves on the whole. When I am sweeping the paths and patio, I do shake the bushes as I go. If it is a climber, I bash it lightly with the broom. This gets rid of a lot of the old leaves. Other than that I leave them alone. However, if there is disease, it is a different matter. The only rose I have that is showing disease at the moment is my new Firefighter. This has blackspot, which I have not seen here before. I am picking off all of the leaves that are showing disease and putting them in the bin rather than anywhere in or near the garden. This is the best way to contain any disease. Don't let it spread. I would do it on a damp, still day, so that the fungal spores have less chance of spreading. Daisy |
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- Posted by nikthegreek 9b/10a E of Athens (My Page) on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 8:12
| Leaf senescence often comes hand-in-hand with propensity to fungal attacks. It is nature's way, I think, to expedite what will happen anyway, I will try to ignore RU's flesh ripping thorns and attempt to take off all the old leaves (as if I had nothing better to do with my limited time...). One can use lime sulphur or thick concentration of horticultural oil to do that but not in the presence of evergreens and not when the roses are already producing new growth. Daisy, I have said it before, I'm predicting a long spring this year with loads of fungal attacks. I got rust, as I said, which I very rarely see and I already have mildew attacks on roses with that propensity. |
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| I do like to take off the old leaves when at all possible but it's a lot of work, especially on the tea roses. When I water with the hose I direct a strong spray on the bushes and that helps to knock off at least some of them. With rust, I hand-collect the leaves and put them in the trash bin. I'm also seeing mildew but am ignoring it since it tends to go away as the season progresses. If a rose is a constant mildew magnet, such as the tea Alexander Hill Gray, I get rid of it in spite of the beautiful flowers. |
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- Posted by nikthegreek 9b/10a E of Athens (My Page) on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 14:07
| Yes, I get mildew on some of my roses, for most of them is a passing thing come summer. MIP can get it and DoB can get it severely but guess which modern breeder's roses tend to get it the most...I suppose that PM is not an issue in dear old Blighty.. Nik |
Here is a link that might be useful: Take Me Back To Dear Old Blighty
This post was edited by nikthegreek on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 14:11
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- Posted by jacqueline3 9CA (My Page) on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 16:19
| If I had limited time, I would focus on getting rid of any old leaves (or any leaves, for that matter) which have visible rust on them. I get a paper bag, and am careful to drop the leaves off right into the bag, as the rust spores are easily dislodged, and float on the air - it is good to trap them before they escape onto the new leaves. jackie |
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| i pull them off otherwise the new leaves end up Rusty. If I pull off the old ones the new leaves don't get Rusty. Works for me. |
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| I take them off and do a spray with copper fungicide. We have so much new growth pushing early this year that I was only able to do the spray of the front garden, but I strip the old leaves from everything, big ramblers grown into trees being the exception. |
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| I am trying to get the leaves off mine - because I didn't in 2011 and those that had end of season leaves on were rubbish, especially disease magnets like ZD. 2012 was a chiller, so they mostly dropped, but I am not leaving them this, our mildest and wettest year because it will be a nightmare. Its a bloody pain.....and I was sorely tempted to spray (especially because I actually did spray the peaches, almonds and nectarines against the horrible curl ). Much longer than pruning, which I can whip through in a few minutes, deleafing Jasmina or Snowgoose is tedious, boring, endless and painful.....and I am only doing the worst of any rust or BS - ignoring mildew on Crepuscule and various others. A hateful job. |
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- Posted by nikthegreek 9b/10a E of Athens (My Page) on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 22:04
| Thanks everyone. I'll try to get the leaves off the few roses I have left them on and do a spray application (mancozeb + myclobutanil) on selected ones. I used to spray often but I'm trying to limit this practice as of late. A copper application after pruning is always a good thing but I have failed in following my own advice this year. When conditions were right I just got bored and then everytime I wanted and had the time to spray it has been either rainy or windy (or both). Nik |
This post was edited by nikthegreek on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 22:28
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- Posted by nikthegreek 9b/10a E of Athens (My Page) on Wed, Feb 26, 14 at 4:11
| I was out in the garden today by dawn. One torn jacket and one painful back after, I was done defoliating 2 Rosariums , one MIP and one Jasmina. Then I had to go to work.. Nik |
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- Posted by melissa_thefarm NItaly (My Page) on Thu, Feb 27, 14 at 0:55
| Being the super lazy gardener I am, and in line with my horticultural philosophy, I don't remove leaves even for rust. Naturally this is an open experiment. Usually I don't get rust in the garden; but last year, with our late, rainy spring, 'Alba Maxima' rusted badly, and had considerable dieback as well. When the new leaves sprouted, what was left of the plants was fine. Fungal disease isn't a big problem in my garden: some plants get fungus at certain times, but it doesn't seem to do much harm. Rust is extremely rare and comes only in unusual weather (though this is our second wet spring in a row: perhaps it will be less unusual in the future), and once the weather passes, the rust does too. I'm not going to fight nature. If a given variety turns out to be so susceptible to disease that its growth and flowering are compromised, I won't grow it. I tolerate a degree of disfigured leaves, the common cold of the genus Rosa. Melissa |
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- Posted by nikthegreek 9b/10a E of Athens (My Page) on Thu, Feb 27, 14 at 3:20
| I often pose to myself the following questions, to which I have many conflicting answers and not a single definitive one. This vagueness affects my gardening (non)philoshophy also: What is natural / unnatural? Is gardening natural? If i didn't interfere my plot would look just like the hills further up from my property. Would this be a bad/good thing? Would it please me? Once you interfere where do you stop? Should I not cultivate non-native species? What about naturalised? Where is the line drawn? How many hundreds, thousands, millions of years ago? What is natural about most of the roses I grow? Same applies for many other plants also. and so on and so forth. I suppose you get my drift. '...οὗτος μὲν οἴεταί τι εἰδέναι οὐκ εἰδώς, ἐγὼ δέ, ὥσπερ οὖν οὐκ οἶδα, οὐδὲ οἴομαι' |
This post was edited by nikthegreek on Thu, Feb 27, 14 at 15:59
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| Eh, very much depends on your personality & your own evaluation re. your climate & conditions. I'm in a deserty region I suspect is similar to yours. Even when I wasn't, I'm a laid-back (or lazy) rose gardener. I leave the leaves. The old, left-over-from-last-year leaves are yellowing & some are spotty. But they are rapidly shedding with spring. I water-blast some off every time I water. The new leaves coming out look so good they seem polished. Right or wrong, I tend to think that every leaf left on contributes to the plant. Others feel that old dying leaves are disease reservoirs--but I let the plants shuck them naturally & don't spray insecticides or fungicides. Hope you see some quick improvement after all that shredding :) |
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- Posted by nikthegreek 9b/10a E of Athens (My Page) on Thu, Feb 27, 14 at 12:30
| Improvement of by back pain you mean? lol PS Seriously, I wouldn't have bothered if I hadn't seen rust on the leaves. Almost every single one of them. I'm not used to seeing rust so I thought I had to do something about it. Our dry summer is still a long time away and relative humidity has been 90-100% lately. So in fall, winter and spring we do not have a desert like climate. During our 4 month dry summer we surely do. |
This post was edited by nikthegreek on Thu, Feb 27, 14 at 12:35
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| Decided I was taking the thread too far off-topic. I'll post elsewhere. |
This post was edited by rosefolly on Thu, Feb 27, 14 at 13:53
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