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| Thanks everyone for the replies in the pillaring post. I have a question (I know, unusual for me). Is a rose is good for pillaring if its canes are lax and the growth habit is not too vigorous? And a rose good for pegging if it is more vigorous? It seems horizontal cane position is the key to getting the most blooms, right? The only established climber I have "Peace" hasn't really put out any new basals even though I've trained it horizontally. Lavendar Lassie is busting out with basals! Also, if a rose is a heavy feeder how does that impact amount and frequency of fertilizing? and Lastly, what does "well grown" indicate...a rose that is well cared for or a rose that is raised by an experienced rosarian? Thanks! Susan |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Training the canes horizontally won't stimulate new basal breaks. What it DOES is spread all along the cane the hormones that stimulate blooming LATERALS. That's why you get many more blooms from a horizontal cane. I should note -- our Golden Celebrations are allowed to arch out naturally, and so, they produce blooming laterals along the canes without all that work. Letting a climber naturalize will do the same thing. A well-grown rose would be healthy, and make an attractive plant, of the correct size for that cultivar. I suppose a rose could be well-grown, and not bloom much at all. (Cl. Peace, for instance grew lustily here, while producing perhaps 2-3 blooms in as many years. After that, it was removed.) Jeri |
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- Posted by poorbutroserich Nashville (My Page) on Wed, Feb 20, 13 at 16:59
| I stand corrected. Basals grow from the base of the rose...I think I got confused because every time I typed "basal" my computer typed "nasal". Ha. Thanks for the info Jeri. I have Parade, Sombreuil and Aloha coming, among others. I keep reading that the HP's are good for pegging. I think I will try one pegged. I guess for me, the reason I need to "confine" them is that I live on an urban plot. I'm have a plan for fertilization. Should I fertilize the HPs more often or with more food? In preparation for spring I put down 2" composted horse manure on my rose beds a couple of months ago (but all my established roses are in pots). Thanks. Susan |
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| Cl Peace is rather iffy. My society pres. has one that blooms it's fool head off. Mine was stiff as a board and refused to fan out and thusly never bloomed in 6 years. Not even at the tips. Oh, it grew like a weed, mind you, but it never bloomed. I shovel pruned it. I've been thinking about taking Golden Celebration off the trellis and letting it have it's way but I'd have to move some others out from under it first. Maybe this spring, we'll see. It does need a good hair cut in any case. You really won't know whose a heavy feeder and who isn't until you've grown them a while. I don't know that you would have to feed climbers or HPs more than any of your other roses. A regular schedule of feeding for all of them should do the trick. It sounds like you've already gotten off to a good start by feeding the soil. The real key to climbers is patience. They're slow starters for the most part and may not do any "climbing" for several years. Don't get discouraged and give them the time they need to mature. Really most any rose needs a good 3 years to fully mature before it will perform at it's best and climbers may take 5 years or more before they really soar. |
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| The thing is, all of the old texts described HPs as "gross feeders." I love the term, which conjures up really funny word pictures -- but despite the humor, I think it does mean that the benefit from heavy feeding. but, of course, Parade, Aloha, and Sombreuil aren't HP's. Let me say, tho -- I self-pegged Mime Isaac Pereire, and I will NEVER do that again. I urge you strongly not to do it with Sombreuil. It will be a miserable task, and the rose, in the long haul, won't like it. My DH reminds me to tell you not to do it, and that the rose will bloom profusely without doing that. You'll lose all those canes, and have to start over. Jeri |
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| Like Jeri, I find old texts to be informative and helpful to us contemporary gardeners. Those texts very often focus primarily on soils when addressing the "feeding" requirements of rose varieties. I frequently find in early publications statements indicating that a rose requires a "rich soil" or "a soil of high fertility"; and it's not uncommon to read that a rose performs well -- or actually prefers -- a "lean" soil. To augment or maintain soil productivity, those early articles emphasize the use of farm manures or "artificial manures" -- the latter always referring ONLY to decomposed organic materials like grass clippings and other plant wastes (even corn cobs). There's much to be learned from those who wrote and gardened in eras that were more agrarian by necessity, acutely observant of natural processes, and ignorant of chemical-based strategies for enhancing plant production. Recent online reading of an article in an 1882 issue of Vick's Monthly Magazine informed me that the residuals of a huge load of stable manure delivered here in late 2010 (and left fully exposed to the elements) has, by now, lost it's "manurial value". According to the writer, I can now use the remainders of the pile like leaf mold -- ie, to lighten the soil, but with no hope of actually enriching the soil. Darn.
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This post was edited by windeaux on Thu, Feb 21, 13 at 14:36
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| Windeaux -- Yup. It was Dean Reynolds Hole, in "A BOOK ABOUT ROSES" who confirmed to us what older rosarians here had said -- that nice fresh horse manure was the cat's pajamas. His chapter: "MANURES" is an education. :-) Jeri |
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| Susan, If you've not seen Paul Zimmerman's very imformative videos, "How to Pillar a Rose" and "Pegging a Rose", you should. Both are available on YouTube. As for what constitutes a well-grown rose, IMO it all comes down to learning what a specific rose needs within a specific environment. There are some varieties (and often entire classes) that simply cannot be grown well in certain locations, regardless of the gardener's level of expertise. I think all rosarians, "expert" or otherwise, launch out upon a new learning curve with each new rose -- and if they relocate, with each new garden. For instance, I learned the hard way that certain roses that grew beautifully in full sun in my first garden demanded afternoon shade if they were to do well in my present garden. One of the most difficult lessons for me to learn with each rose -- antique or modern -- is what that rose prefers when it comes to pruning. Heavy-handed mistakes made in that activity can take a l-o-n-g time to right themselves (and at times it seems some never really do). Unless I have guidance from someone experienced with a rose that resents anything but light pruning, it becomes a tedious matter of trial and error. I suspect most of us who have been at this for a while have roses that we proudly think of as well grown, and other roses that -- well let's not talk about those . . . |
Here is a link that might be useful: One of PZ's Videos
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| I also suspect that in the past the HP's were very often used for exhibition, more so than the teas, because of the large and many-petaled blooms. In order for those blooms to be as impressive as possible I would imagine that "gross feeding" would be encouraged, whereas teas and polyanthas and other roses used for garden rather than exhibition value could do with more "lean" conditions. Ingrid |
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- Posted by poorbutroserich Nashville (My Page) on Mon, Feb 25, 13 at 7:52
| You all are great! Jeri, please tell your husband I am smart enough to listen to the voice of experience! ; ) I have Mme. Isaac Periere coming and I want to see those BLOOMS. I know I need to be patient and I will. I love reading the old books and the language in Hole's book is so enjoyable. Makes me chuckle. Jeri, I'm not considering pegging Sombreuil nor Aloha. I've read that pillaring Parade is nice. However, these are coming on fortuniana and I keep reminding myself that ENGLISH growing conditions are quite different from mine. I have self pegged Peace Lcl as I am going to SP it (likely). It bloomed gloriously for me last spring but it is too out of control. If the pegging results in disaster, so be it. So, am I to understand that fresh manure is ok? I don't have anywhere for it to rot and all the rotted stuff gets gone. Does it look like sawdust when it's well rotted? Thanks ladies! Susan |
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