Vintage Gardens collected there a huge, magnificent specimen of 'Devoniensis.' Subsequent to that find, the rose was killed by overenthusiastic "pruning."

The cemetery's roses are now being restored by a group of volunteers, but though Vintage has donated small plants for the cementery, that Devoniensis will never again grow well in the place where the original was, because there are now huge trees shading and crowding that place. The replacement plants of 'Devoniensis' have been planted in areas of the cemetery which have some sunlight.

I suspect that the only way to replace a rose garden in that place would be to re-site it, away from the trees.

Jeri

Lynnie, bred by Kim Rupert.
Marie Pavie
Bolero Floribunda
Honey Bouquet
Pat Austin
Wise Portia
Mary Magdalene
William shakespeare 2000
Golden Celebration
Christopher Marlow

The above can do with 4 hours of sun. Other roses listed as partial shade BUT requires more than 4 are: Queen of Sweden, Crown Princess Magareta in my garden.

The ones I don't grow but Al in shady garden here in Chicagoland grows are: Peter Mayle and Home Run.

My neighbor has Pink Gruss A. It was loaded in Thanksgiving (6 hours of very weak Chicagoland sun). Al stated that Home Run bloomed very well in shade. Cantigny Rose park here (1,200 roses) kicked out Knock-out to replace with Home Run.

I'm vitamin D-deficient from lack of sun in Chicagoland. The roses I listed bloomed in 4 hours of sun, except for stingy Crown Princess Mag. and Queen of Sweden.

Below link shows a picture of Peter Mayle blooming in morning sun only, in the cold zone east coast. More than one person growing that one in partial shade.

I like Iceberg for partial shade as well as Gruss An Aachen. I am trying out Madame Alfred Carriere for a semi shade position and that rose can grow! To the top of my plum tree in one season!

Sherry

Dr. Huey has an advantage in alkaline soil with its big root, forcing it to grow own-root on top of that make the overall root even bigger, extracting more water & more blooms. Your sun in CA is more intense than my sun in Chicagoland, so CPM would do fine with your 5 1/2 hours.

1) Own-roots are wimpy, they do better in partial shade for the first few years, until their roots grow deeper. My Mirandy's blooms fried as own-root, but a friend in CA said his Mirandy blooms are fine on Dr. Huey.

2) Dr. Huey is great for heavy clay with its deep root, except for flash-flood region like my Chicagoland. I have many wet spots that Dr. Huey perished completely. So I planted own-root Romanticas and they do great in wet spot. When I attempted to plant annuals next to Romanticas, it was impossible. Romanticas' roots are shallow and knit across the surface. It's an advantage for a wet spot, but not winter-hardy.

3) Austin roots are deeper, thus David Austin roses are hardier than Romanticas for cold zone. There are some Austins with wimpy roots: William Shakespeare 2000 and Pat Austin are best in partial shade. I dug them up, and their own-roots are pathetic.

4) Most Old Garden Roses are sold own-roots, some are pathetic like Comte de Chambord with own-roots like alfalfa sprouts, which broke off when I transferred. One person said Comte de Chambord does well in partial shade ... mine did lousy in full sun. Comte de Chambord, Louis Odier, and Paul Neyron are listed as partial shade. Paul Neyron is another wimy root that could not handle full sun above 90 degrees, and disease-prone. When I put Pau Neyron in morning sun only, he did great.

Golden Celebration is blackspot-prone for many people if grafted on Dr. Huey. Dr. Huey is a deep-root system, and CANNOT handle poor-drainage, water-clog clay. Take mauve Heirloom hybrid tea grafted on Dr. Huey. It was great in a pot, but once transferred in wet clay, it broke out in BS. I dug up Heirloom , and Dr. Huey shrank in that wet spot. Dr. Huey' roots disappear completely in 4 Knock-out roses, and they grew shallow upper own-roots in that wet spot. The plants shrank in size as well.

My Golden Celebration is own-root, gets from 2 to 6 hours of sun, depending on the shadow of my house in late fall. As own-root, my Golden Cel. is 100% blackspot free, even in week-long rain. Its root system is extensive, but shallow all over the surface like Romanticas. My plant is small as own-root.

The smaller the rose compared to the root, the healthier it is. By the 3rd year, nitrogen fertilizer makes the rose becomes much larger than the root, and the root cannot support such big mass. Most roses are healthy the 1st year, and decline with diseases in 3rd year. The advantaqe of own-root is the mass of the rose remains small compared to the root. That's the reason why some smaller own-root roses are healthier.

Someone asked the question if own-roots are healthier? My answer is it depends on which root is bigger for that wet or dry spot. It depends on which root is more efficient in getting the maximum water and nutrients. One person report "Love Potion" has less BS grafted on Dr. Huey, compared to his other wimpy own-root plant.

My healthiest own-roots? They are the ones with the biggest root system. Comte de Chambord has the most blackspots, and the wimpiest root whitish like alfalfa sprouts. That one needs partial shade.

One you might consider is the tea rose, 'Mons. Tillier.' I grew this under some tall pines on the eastern side of my home in north Alabama where it only got morning sun. Others on that east side were Cramoisi Superieur, Perle d'Or and Mutabilis all of which seemed to do fine with morning sun until about noon, if my rememberer still works. they were shaded by the house and trees the rest of the day.

Live oaks have more overhanging branches than my pines did, though, so I'm not sure.

Ghislaine de Feligonde and Veilchenblau also did well in those pines with some morning sun. Up by the house where it got very little sun, a little direct afternoon and a smattering of morning, was the earthkind rose, Spice.

A hedge of knock outs back there between my neighbor and me didn't do that well because of the shade, but the CS, PdO and Mutabilis seemed to be fine.

Something else that did really well in the partial shade to my surprise was Limelight, the paniculata hydrangea. I put it there because I knew there wasn't enough sun for a rose; I didn't expect it to become as large and floriferous as it did there.

hth and good luck.

This is Mons Tillier, late April 2009, north Alabama

This is a shot in August 2009; you can see the Limelight in the middle, MT on the right and that is GdF on the left.
That Limelight is probably 5 or 6 feet behind the MT, although it looks like it's right beside it.

I'd suggest buying the biggest roses you can, that like partial shade, and even then growing them up a while in large pots to give them a better chance in the difficult conditions once they are planted.

Antique Rose Emporium is a really good suggestion, maybe giving them a call and describing what you want and the garden situation would be helpful. ARE does send larger plants than many online rose nurseries, and their roses come potted (I think in 2 gallon sized pots). Getting roses from them means higher shipping costs than from some other sources, but one is getting larger plants too which is a plus when one wants bigger roses sooner. They place a lot of importance on growing healthy roses and in addition the likelihood of getting a rose free of RMV is high.

Melissa

The Bourbon Zephirine Drouhin might be one to consider. Great fragrance.

Perhaps a Tea- Noisette: Mme Alfred Carriere, a vigorous rose, great bloomer.

Jeri

Jeri

I had planned on putting in a different area of the garden but since I have been working on the improved "party patio" I have been thinking of putting on the other side of the fence/bench. (I am leveling the patio, a good 18" on one side) so the neighbors 6 foot privacy fence is not so private for us anymore. I noticed that this area gets some good strong sun even this time of year in the mid morning, more since there is less fence to shade it now.

Do you think that is enough direct sun? Summer there is a bit more, but the nice developer of that complex put in a row of big trees to screen my parents mess from the high paying customers decades ago + the massive oak tree, so now almost half of the property is in shade this time of year.

Golden Celebration is a water-hog. If yours is on Dr. Huey, it will do better in dry soil.

Rosa Laevigata, of course, depending on the spot, and whether you are willing to keep it clipped as a shrub (or train it into a tree, or over a structure)

I'm linking to an excellent (as usual) Paul Zimmerman video in which he discusses the sunlight requirements of roses in general, and how to succeed in growing certain varieties in situations where the available sunlight is less than ideal.

Also, visit the Antique Rose Emporium website and review their page of roses for partial shade. Approximately 40 varieties are listed there, most of which are from classes of roses mentioned by Paul in his video.

Sunlight is strongest between the hours of 8 am and 4 pm, so if you have full sun for 5 and 1/2 hours in that window of time, it will be stronger light than that cast before 8 a.m. and after 4. p.m..
For your latitude with 5 and 1/2 hours of full sun during the peak "rose window of time" I suggest doing the same thing that we did,The solution was to plant China and Old Garden Tea roses, and Noisettes, because all of these bloom normally with that amount of sunlight, in our latitude.
I checked every site where I wanted to plant a rosebush and evaluated the amount or absence of sunlight every two hours during one days time, at 8 a.m., 10 a.m. 12 noon, 2 p.m. and 4 p.m.. sometime during the peak months of the rose blooming season. Where I live that is between May and September, for modern roses and March through October for evergreen rose classes.
For the survey I poke a stick in the ground, everywhere I want to plant a rosebush, and on the map I label each stick A, B. or C, and so on.
If your hand will cast a clear shadow when held 3 feet above ground level: this counts as full sun.
-If the shadow cast is blurred, and you can tell there is a hand shadow cast on the ground, but cannot count the fingers in the shadow, this counts as partial sun.
-if your hand does not cast a shadow, this counts as total darkness as far as rosebushes are concerned.

I made a chart for each rosebush, and counted each hour of sun that was produced between 8 am and 4 pm.

2 hours of partial sun, counts as 1 hour of R.S.N., Rose Sunlight Hours.
So if I want to plant roses in a bed that has:
- partial sunlight, counts as 50% in time. and so if a bed has partial sunlight between 8 a.m. to 10 a.m. it counts as one hour total in Rose Sunlight Hours.
- full sun from 10am to 3 pm equals a total of 5 hours.
I know that China, Tea and Noisette rosebushes will bloom normally in that bed, (in our latitude or closer to the equator) because that bed receives a total of
6 Hours of "Rose Sunlight Hours".
where I live most large-flowered remontant roses, which include most Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals, bloom best when they receive 8 hours of full sunlight a day.

I have found that for a rosebed that has partial shade or filtered shade, for the best re-bloom rosebushes from the 3 evergreen classes perform best;
China
Old Garden Tea
Noisette
. Although in our latitude, Hybrid Musk rosebushes are equally as shade tolerant as the evergreen rose classes,they bloom far less often; only 3 to 4 months a year, as they are not evergreen plants but have a long dormancy, even here near San Francisco, California I am especially fond of the Pemberton roses, Cornelia, Callisto, a good yellow that is very fragrant.

Polyantha roses are also tolerant of partial shade in our latitude; La Marne, Mlle. Cecille Brunner, Perle d'Or, The Fairy, White Pet' which I planted in a border are some of my favorites.
Wild roses are lovely in the outer areas that get a bit fewer than 5 hours of sunlight and a few wild roses will bloom slightly less than normal, but still give a good enough garden display with 4 and 1/2 hours of sun. Rosa moschata give good value with 3-4 months of bloom, and a bonus of luscious scent. Plus the foliage is attractive, R. moschata is slightly more shade tolerant than China, Tea and Noisette class roses. The single form wafts its' lovely fragrance further and more strongly than the double form.
For beauty and nearly constant bloom Old Garden Tea
My favorite shade tolerant roses include: Le Vesuve, Westside Road Cream Tea,
Lady Hillingdon, Monsieru Tillier, cl. Devoniensis, Archduc Charles, Mrs. B.R. Cant, White Maman Cochet, Gloire des Rosomanes, Cramoisi Superieur, and the climbing forms of any of the China and Tea ,classes.
the spray form of Cecille Brunner is as shade tolerant as the O.G. Teas and it produces more months of bloom than all the other forms of that rose, plus it has a lovely fragrance.

Grandmothers Hat is the only rose of its class that I would grow in partial sun, here it blooms normally with 6 and 1/2 hours of sunlight.

One of the most important things I feel I can share with you, is to start Old Garden Roses in a bed that is well amended and in FULL SUN, if at all possible.
I would wait until the bush is 3 to 4 feet tall before moving it into partial shade. This is especially needed if the plant is on its own roots and slow to build as some China and Tea roses are. ( a monthly liquid feeding of 12-12-12 will help China and Tea roses grow more quickly, after the soil is well amended. The taller the rosebush, the more sun it will accesss, and the more quickly it will bloom normally.

A light meter can show you clearly why growing them up in full sun is a good idea, the brightness of sunlight increases considerably even a foot above the ground level.

IF you do not have an area in full sun to grow the rosebushes to 3' to 4', then I would suggest you plant them in 8 gallon or larger pots, with rose soil and 1/3rd native soil, and submerge the pots so the rim is below ground level (otherwise the soil drys out more rapidly) where you plan to plant them, to see if the rosebush will bloom normally in an area with partial shade, it will be easy to pop up a pot and move it if it does not bloom normally there, without disturbing its roots.

Good luck and best wishes.

Luxrosa
p.s sorry this is so long, I mean to write an article some day and edit it better.