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| I've never seen this rose in person, but I just heard of 'Sunshine' for the first time this week. The pictures on HMF are wonderful! It strikes me as an actually modest Poly-Tea with the most vibrant apricot-orange I've seen in the class. Does anyone on here grow it? What are your experiences? Is it fragrant at all? I'm interested to learn more about this one. Thanks for your help. Jay |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Yes, I've grown it since about 1985, when I read "You Are My Sunshine" in the NRS (British National Rose Society) magazine, "The Rose". A member bought a house with this neat little rose. Each time the member moved, they took the rose with them until they finally submitted it to the NRS for identification. It was determined to be Sunshine. I was volunteering at The Huntington Library regularly in those days, propagating roses. I found what was left of the nearly dead plant of Sunshine buried under mammoth Agapanthus, in fairly deep shade, along one of the long pergolas. I propagated it and began spreading it around to Sequoia, Pixie Treasures, The Rose Ranch, Vintage and anyone else who would sell it. Sunshine can be a weak grower own root, so keep it in a larger pot for best results. It is WONDERFULLY fragrant! It will flower all the time in my climate (Los Angeles); it sets hips easily, though not much results from its seeds. It can mildew. It keeps its color better if protected from the harshest, hottest of sun. It is SIGNIFICANTLY better as a budded plant. I grow it both own root as well as a four foot standard budded to Pink Clouds, which I obtained from Sequoia before they closed. What else would you like to know? Kim |
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- Posted by ArbutusOmnedo 10/24 (My Page) on Sat, May 24, 14 at 1:18
| Kim- Thanks for chiming in. It's good to hear from someone who's grown it for such a long time. I'm near the coast in Santa Monica so mildew can be a problem. I would be looking to grow it in a pot, but I could potentially put it in the ground if I managed to find a budded plant. I've noticed less mildew on roses in the ground than roses in pots here. I saw that Burling carries it. I imagine if anyone could provide a grafted Sunshine, it would be her. Have you ever noticed rust on Sunshine? That would be a bigger issue than mildew. I'm not in a rush to get it, but it is a rose I'd like to try in the future if it is suitable for this area. I'm sure it would bloom all the time here, but I don't want to grow something that will be ridden with ugly foliage. Jay |
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| Hi Jay, it never rusted for me in nursery cans at The Outdoor Room in Pacific Palisades, two blocks from the ocean. It didn't rust in Newhall in my old garden, nor as a potted standard in Valencia, and it doesn't rust here in Encino up on the ridge between the Valley and Encino Reservoir. When Jimofshermanoaks grew it in Sherman Oaks, pretty much right in Sepulveda Pass, mildew was the issue. I don't remember ever seeing it rust in his garden, nor him complaining of it rusting. It wasn't sprayed in either SCV location nor is it sprayed here. I had to spray in The Palisades due to the constant sawflies. I can well imagine you see more mildew on potted plants. The soil is hotter and plants more easily (and severely) water stressed in pots than in the ground. Water stressed plants mildew much more easily, and depending upon their genetics, you can as easily force them to rust with water stress. I never believed it until I did it. If you find a rose has chronic problems with disease, try varying the water before you buy chemicals. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised! If you can get her to bud you one, you'll enjoy Sunshine MUCH better than own root. Or, if you have the room and an adventurous spirit, Pink Clouds is what Burling uses and it roots VERY easily. I have Pink Clouds and I have Sunshine. Wanna try "rolling your own"? Kim |
Here is a link that might be useful: Burling's Chip Budding Instructions
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- Posted by ArbutusOmnedo 10/24 (My Page) on Sat, May 24, 14 at 2:30
| That's good about rust. I don't use any chemicals on the roses or any plants here. A former classmate of mine is a graduate student in Entomology and very vocal about CCD/not using substances known to impact beneficial insects. In addition to the herbs and vegetables I grow, I like knowing I can use edible flowers occasionally without worry of potential harm. I've assumed that the stresses of pot culture are at root with most of the cases I've seen. An Iceberg in a sunny spot in a well-draining, half-barrel sized planter has been riddled with mildew and occasionally rust for most of the year. Iceberg is absolutely spotless in similar conditions in the ground for my mom. I have thought about it before, and I should give my hand at budding. I'm only 23 and by the time I'm 50, who knows how many nurseries will still be selling the varieties I'm interested in that can grow tolerably on their own roots? Let alone many varieties I'm interested in at all. I tried to vernalize some seeds I got from a cross of Distant Drums and Ambridge Rose I tried last year, but I didn't get any seedlings to come up my first try. I'll be trying more crosses in the fall to get my first seedlings next year. There are few things I've immediately gotten so much satisfaction out of as growing roses. Learning to bud certainly couldn't hurt. Jay |
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| Jay -- I grow 'Sunshine' here in Camarillo. It would love to have more heat than it gets here, but it soldiers on, blooming bravely, tho remaining small. Yes. Mine is own-root. Yes, it is reasonably disease-free. No rust. Mildew very, very rarely. We bought a plant for a friend, on the death of his father. The family name is Sunshine, so we obtained a tree-rose from Burlington Rose Nursery. In Simi Valley, it is a very, very happy and vigorous rose, and a superb bloomer. |
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| I've always suggested to folks they plant the seeds from self set hips first to learn how to raise the seedlings before they invest energy in generating seeds from their own crosses. Very often, the issue is planting them too deeply and either allowing the soil to dry too far, or using something which remains too wet, too long. You want something sufficiently moisture retentive to keep them growing between waterings, yet drain well enough to prevent rot. Sequoia Nursery achieved that by using nursery flats filled with their traditional potting soil mixed with perlite, probably one third soil to two-thirds perlite. The flats were on benches in a plastic covered house, open at both ends for air flow, with sprinkler risers along the benches. The sprinklers went off for a few minutes several times daily to keep the mix damp. I raise mine in the open air, in eight inch deep boxes with screen bottoms, raised on blocks or saw horses. What works in my high evaporation conditions is moisture control potting mix with the top levels generously amended with perlite and seed starter mix. If you have high humidity, lower heat and more controlled wind and can keep them properly watered, using only seed starter mix or other soil mixed to be that light, should work fine. It isn't all that difficult to raise rose seedlings, though. How many simply fall to the soil and germinate all by themselves? The clues there are they don't require brilliant, hot, direct sun, and they want it damp, while not being so wet they rot. Kim |
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- Posted by ArbutusOmnedo 10/24 (My Page) on Sat, May 24, 14 at 22:28
| I tried both presumably self-sown Iceberg seeds (which are abundantly set here) and seeds of the attempted cross, but I probably wasn't able to keep a proper moisture content in the growing medium. I did spread them into a nursery flat with a seed starting mix, so only a little in my process will need to be tweaked I think. I will most definitely be more diligent with their maintenance next year. Would there be any benefit to trying to raise seedlings without chilling the seeds? I've wondered whether trying to grow seeds without stratification would better ready them for existence in a frost-free climate. If I'm not mistaken, Lila Banks was the result of such treatment. If that idea is a bad one, how long do you recommend stratifying hips/seeds, Kim? I probably didn't do a perfect job of cleaning the seeds of the germination-inhibiting pulp either. Jeri- Thanks for your experience. I'm glad that Sunshine soldiers on for you. Jay |
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| I only refrigerate seeds to prevent germination until the weather is SUPPOSED to cooperate, Jay. The traditional press on germination has stated they stop germinating when temps rise about 70 F, but that is NOT what I have experienced here the past three years. Supposedly, the weather here in SoCal is to cool and begin raining around Thanksgiving. Years ago I selected that as my targeted planting time because of that and my schedule. Some years I have been able to hit the target, some not, planting as late as January. I do know if I plant before late November, it's going to be HOT, DRY and WINDY, none of which are easy conditions to attempt raising seeds in. I created the seed tables with the thoughts that 8" deep soil insulates tremendously better than anything shallower and remains damper longer. The tables are 2' deep by 4' long, providing a huge soil mass for insulation and water retention. They're made of fir fencing which is inexpensive and readily available. The dimensions were also chosen because they require two cuts per standard fencing board size, so I could easily, usually free, have the store accomplish all of my cuts so I don't have to break out the saw at home. That large of a soil mass also permits them to remain in the tables until I transplant them into individual pots when readying the tables for the next batch of seeds. Sequoia transplanted throughout summer because they could put them under mist to stabilize before putting them inside a greenhouse to harden off. I can't, so they must remain growing in the tables until repotting. You may consider using something larger and deeper than flats, unless they're inside a greenhouse where they won't dry out quickly. I don't sterilize my seeds, but I do attempt to remove as much of the pulp as possible so they don't mold in the storage bags until I plant them. As long as the pulp and fibers aren't wet, they usually don't mold. Sometimes they remain in the refrigerator quite a few months. I recently harvested self set seed from one of my seedlings to sow this fall. Those are fairly clean and I've allowed them to air dry before storing them in the refrigerator because I can't successfully plant them for another five and a half to six months. I'm sure there will be seeds which are harvested when I plant. Those won't be cooled (stratified) at all and most simply won't need it. I planted seeds from another seedling this spring straight from the hips to the soil and they're germinating. If it remains cooler (lower than the eighties) in your conditions, and you can keep them properly watered, go ahead and plant them. That won't be the case here! It is guaranteed to be hot, windy and dry. Add the overly brilliant sun and newly germinated seedlings will fry quickly. My situation and conditions don't permit me to protect them from the extremes. "Baby" plants won't tolerate them any better than baby animals or people will. We've already experienced the range from mid forties to low triple digits since January and more seedlings are pushing through the surface each week. Only those which emerge during cooler, less extreme conditions make it. It's disheartening to watch them emerge and dry out, like feeding emerging faxes into a paper shredder, but I figure only the best are going to survive, so that should help in the culling process. If their root systems are sufficiently vigorous to maintain them through the hottest, most brilliant periods, they should be decent plants. I can already see which are healthy and which are definitely not. More than likely, those which are already heavily mildewing would clean up substantially if I budded them, but that would possibly supply more varieties which would make bad own root plants. I may miss some beautiful, interesting novelties, but at what price? I hope I've helped give you some useful ideas to tweak your method. Good luck! Kim
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- Posted by ArbutusOmnedo 10.24 (My Page) on Sun, May 25, 14 at 19:44
| You absolutely have Kim! Thank you for all of that information. Jay |
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| Just to add that I'm very impressed by my own-root 'Sunshine' here in coastal So Cal. It has grown to a height of about 2.5 feet, with one extremely vigorous bloom-stalk pushing three feet (it had 46 buds; unfortunately, the cluster came just as we had several days of 106-107 degree weather, so most of the flowers were fried). The leaves are like those of a Tea, except of smaller dimensions; and, for me, they are perfectly healthy (and I never spray my roses). The scent is delicious, and carries far. It's high on my list of roses I wouldn't do without. I have it planted in a parkway bed with a background of *Ruta odorata*, the blue-gray foliage of which suits it very well; the nearly-white edging of *Kalanchoe pumila* makes for a nice companion; and a drift of *Iris pallida dalmatica* a little farther on makes the scene just perfect when its silvery lavender blossoms come along, rising above the Rue. |
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| You're welcome, Jay! I'm glad. Kim |
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