I used to be a "kick" fertilizer. But these days it's more like "when I get to it." I have roses this year that I haven't fertilized (I use Plant Tone mixed with alfalfa meal). They all had a spritz of AACT compost tea, but that's it. As to the bloom, they did in spite of my neglect. I guess I'll be "patting their backsides" when I get to it. Oh yes, I have top dressed some of them with horse manure. That's kinda like a fertilizer, though it is really a soil amendment. I really have not noticed a difference in their bloom depending on the time or amount of fertilizer.

Barbara

I found a study somewhere on the internet a few years back. I have not been able to find it since.

Study was done by the U of California for the florist rose industry, back when California still had a florist rose industry (before it all moved to countries on the equator).

Tests showed that maximum nitrogen uptake occurred when the roses were in full flush, meaning that is when they want N.

So I started giving my roses that I really want performance from a hit of fast-acting high-n fertilizer when they are approaching full flush. This is in addition to long lasting organic fertilizer (alfalfa meal) once in spring.

Works great!

I�m like Barbara, when I get around to it, once around 5/1 with Plant Tone and 10, 10, 10 and, if I get around to it, again about mid summer. If the rose doesn�t like it, then too bad, out it goes. I�m starting to think that once a rose is well established it doesn�t matter much especially if you�re using organics. I would think that it takes a long time for the fertilizer to reach all of the roots.
What seems to matter more is water. Roses that grow near a source of water seem to grow like weeds even in areas where some plants would die for lack of proper drainage.

Hoovb, I think the paper to which you're referring is "Cyclic Nitrogen Uptake by Greenhouse Roses" by Raul Cabrea at UC Davis.

Evidently, right after flowering, roses make new growth mostly from nutrients already stored within the plant. External nutrients in the soil (fertilizers) are taken up mostly after new growth slows and flowers start to form.

Here is a link that might be useful: Cyclic Nitrogen Uptake

So. . . it's kick in the pants right before the big show in spring! Thank you, hoovb, and you as well, mike_rivers. So reassuring to have some scientific documentation on this.
Hoovb -- what do you use for fast-acting N? And is it foliar, or granular and/or liquid for the soil?

Kay

Renewing this good thread that I missed when it was posted.

Thank you for reviving this thread. The info is great to know-- incredibly useful even if I don't end up following it this year which is very likely-- too disorganized :-)

Anne

*** Thereafter, uptake rates increased, with the highest rate occurring as the flower shoots reached commercial maturity.

Ok, when exactly is this "commercial maturity" point? When the buds are just about ready to open?

A problem that I see is that my bushes seem to have 'rolling' flushes except in spring and fall on some roses. They rarely are covered with a mass bloom but just sprinkled over a period of time. In this case would you give the N at the first sign of the rolling flush? Plus each one is on a different schedule, so I'd be applying N almost constantly.

Is blood meal a good quick N? I think I've read that the dose is quite small? How much is right?

Sherry

Here is a link that might be useful: If only sweat were irrigation...

I'm also interested in what you use, hoovb, that's quick-acting. I apply the alfalfa meal after pruning which is usually in January, but only when it's warmer and there is already new growth on the pruned roses, assuming I've had to prune them. I try to give them more after the big flush but I can't say I'm methodical about it. Since hoovb's roses seem to always have lots of bloom I suspect hit or miss is not the most efficient method.

Ingrid

Hoovb might have her secret faves among rose foods--we all envy her roses--but my guess is that it might be something as basic as Miracle Gro Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food--the stuff that turns blue when you mix it with water. At 24-8-16, that's a pretty major kick in the pants, nitrogen-wise.

Kay

MG Lawn Food, 36-0-6, or Blood Meal, 13-1-1. Kaboom!

{{gwi:277270}}

Ok, when exactly is this "commercial maturity" point? When the buds are just about ready to open?

Probably right when the sepals start to fall, or are ready to.

It must be pointed out that a soil test showed my soil has zero nitrogen in it, but lavish amounts of P, K and micronutrients. No need for me to add P & K. Go by your soil, not mine.

OK, hoovb, you made your point beautifully. What is that rose?

Sherry

Here is a link that might be useful: If only sweat were irrigation...

That sounds like a serious kick in the pants! One good thing about moms chickens, I can get a lot of high nitrogen fertilizer for the lawn. Keeps it nice and green.

Sherry, I believe that Hoovb's blooming machine rose is the completely awesome Brass Band. Not a super amount of fragrance, but if it's going to bloom like that, I'm not sure I mind all that much.

Kay

Really Hoovb - you really do use those high nitrogen fertilizers on your roses to get them to look so phenomenal? I though we got knocked over the knuckles with a wooden ruler (oops, confused with my first piano teacher) using high nit. fertilizers. I heard it described as being like giving an athlete a potent shot of steroids, and eventually was bad for the roses. Is that not true?

I have heard from multiple people about going nitrogen heavy at heavy blooming time so will be starting this year, although due to my schedule I think I am just going to do it when a majority of them are getting there versus attempt to time each one individually.

And hoovb, due to that photo you posted of Brass Band on the photo gallery, I immediately went to RVR and placed an order for a band for the spring. I drool over it everytime I see one of your photos!

I have nitrogen poor soil and have found that my roses perform the best if I give them a kick in the pants with calcium nitrogen after the estimated last frost and before the first flush.

Over the years of mulching the rose beds, the soil is healthier, but I still have to use chemical foods during the season because it can take ten years or more to build viable soil that can support plants with just organic feeding.

Smiles,
Lyn

Somebody gave me some Mills EZ feed once and the roses just went nuts that year. Chicken manure worked well when I tried it. This year it's Holly tone + Rose tone because I got some big bags on clearance ( had taped up rips ).