I ordered delphinium seed from Dowdeswells in New Zealand. They were easy to germinate, and bloomed beautifully last summer in my garden. They survived our zone 4 winter, all came back and are growing like gangbusters. I didn't lose one. I think when grown from seed they adjust much better to the climate they are introduced to. I'll have to figure out a better staking system this year....they grew so tall they just bent over the stakes and string I had placed. Any tips from you experienced delph growers for effective staking? Thanks!

Wow, is all I have to say. I love the delphs! But I've never had a lot of luck with them.

I planted 3 magic fountains last year in the 2 1/2 feet of space between some roses in a row. 1 survived the winter but does not look very happy to date. I found some Blue Bird delphiniums this spring and planted them, and they are beautiful. Their lowest leaves are already starting to go yellow; I don't know whether its too little or too much water. Each delphinium is planted on the north side of a rose so it gets a little protection from the sun. I tried winter-sowing some larkspur, but absolutely nothing germinated, not even weeds. I have had better luck with the Belladonna delphinium started early under lights from seed; they will come back for 3-4 years before fading away.

Lois in PA

The Larkspur seeds have all germinated. Yes - all of the them. LOL! So I have to thin them out. They are still tiny though, which surprises me since I started them early. Looks like it will be June before they will be big enough to bloom. We shall have to wait to find out how they handle the June heat.

The Connecticut Yankee delphinium is in full bloom. This will be its third year. The problem with this variety is that the stems don't want to grow straight up. Their natural habit is twist about. Prompt staking this year has "trained" it into a more formal upright habit.

The New Millennium delphiniums are in various states of maturity. One is all budded out and ready to pop. The two others are growing but haven't put up stalks yet.

So far so good.

I do have a nice story for you folks. On Monday I was out watering my delphs when a neighbor walked by the house. When she saw me she came to an abrupt stop. Her jaw literally dropped open. Then she said to me:

"It sure is nice to see that somebody can grow those things here in Maryland."

I looked up, gave her a sweet smile, and replied:

"Oh they really aren't any trouble at all. I truly don't know why more people don't have success with them."

The neighbor gave me an envious look that could kill than went about her way.

He-he-he-he-he...

Oh, Patrick, you are so wicked!

Patrick,
I don't have your e-mail.
If you are still interested to come to see my oncebloomers and get your Yolande de Aragon, Memorial Day weekend is a good time to do it.
Olga

Lois - yellow leaves are a sign of starvation. Delphiniums are heavy feeders. They especially like compost. Give your delphs some food and keep the soil moist but not soggy.

Lindy - they don't call me the evil enabler for nothing. LOL!

Olga - I've been meaning to call you. This season has been crazy. Yes I definately want YOLANDE D'ARAGON. Please-please-please tell me that you still have her. I've got to go to Virginia this coming weekend but I'm free the next. How about Saturday, July 7th?

Now for the purpose at hand. Delphinium updates. They are doing fine. The CONNECTICUT YANKEE has finished his bloom cycle and the stalks have been cut down to the base. If he behaves like he did last year then I can expect another flush of blooms in 2-3 weeks. The NEW MILLENNIUM are in various stages of completion. Those that get the most sun are finishing up their first flush. Those in more shade are just starting to bloom. I can't stress enough how useful shade is with these finicky perennnials. No they can't be grown in full shade, but partial shade (that means 4-5 hours of direct sunlight a day; or all day dabbled shade) is actually beneficial in areas where summers are hot and humid.

The Larkspurs are also starting to bloom. Ironically, those on the right side of the flower bed, which gets the most shade from a Birch Tree, is blooming first. Go figure. To be honest I like the larger foliage and more dramatic flower clusters on the delphiniums better. Of course the larkspurs do have their use. They don't take up a lot of horizontal space. Next year I'm planting them with the roses in my Twilight's Bower experimental bed. That bed was layed out by the previous owner and the dimensions are all off, which creates a lot of dead space between the roses. The larkspurs should be a marvelous solution.

Here is my Larkspur writeup from my garden journal.

Larkspur
(Consolida ambigua; var. Shades of Blue)

Larkspur is a charming annual that while not as dramatic as its cousin, the delphinium, is a whole lot easier to grow being more tolerant of heat, shade and different soul types. It comes into bloom a month later and is perfectly suited for less formal, unpretentious country gardens. I do find the blues arent nearly as pure as the delphinium, leaning a bit more on the violet side of the color spectrum. On the plus side the plants dont take up nearly as much space and are very useful for filling tight spaces in the garden.

Other names: Rocket Larkspur, Annual Delphinium
Class: annual
Bloom Time: early summer (June)
Exposure: full sun to partial shade
Fragrance: none
Height/Width: 3-5 x 1-2
Planting Time: early spring as-soon-as the soil can be worked
Soil: prefers rich, well drained loam
Source: seed packets from local nursery
Notes: Grows easily from seed. Doesnt like to be transplanted so sow seed densely then thin as needed. Dont be fooled by the fennel-like foliage. It may look edible but is mildly toxic. Plants grown in partial shade are shorter (about 2 feet tall), dont require staking, and bloom earlier.
Folklore: There is a legend that Larkspur originated during the battle of Troy. When Achilles was slain, a warrior named Ajax was expected to get his armor, an honor for the bravest warrior. When he unexpectedly didnt get it, he took his own life, and where his blood spilled, a small blue Larkspur began to grow.

Image of Larkspur by Flowersandthings previously posted at the Annuals Forum
{{gwi:18935}}

I don't have delphs currently, but here are some ideas based on my experience in killing them off and on over 30 years. It is usually mild and wet here, which helps the delphs but also helps their enemies. My first try, they all died of crown rot during the first season. Later on, most carried over one or two winters.

drainage-- One of my most successful delphs was inadventently planted over a foundation drain tile. If you have heavy soil, plant on a mound 5" high and 2' wide with a ditch around for watering and OM added. True clay soils can be amended with at least equal part sand-- less than that does no good. But the mound seems to be the main thing.

alkalinity-- use wood ash or true lime for a quick fix, not limestone.

mulch-- don't, it encourages slugs and crown rot. Keep the surface clean all year. Possibly a summer mulch of sand would help in a hotter climate.

slugs-- put any traps or bait some distance from the delphs. A sprinkle of wood ash or true lime around the base of the mound discourages them, or diatomaceous earth; renew as needed. Be very vigilant in early spring and when the second growth starts after taking down the first spike.

crown rot-- corn meal on the soil surface and under the adjacent mulch has been shown to control one of the responsible fungi. A sprinkle of wood ash or true lime might help. Drainage under the crown is essential.

exposure-- you might find a spot under a south-facing eave or tree canopy that will provide midday shade in summer, but full sun in spring and fall when the sun angle is lower.

Everyones pictures are beautiful!!! Does anyone have any delphinium seeds they would like to share? I am a newbie so I have a limited amount of seeds to trade. (I do have a few like hollyhock, digitalis, hyacinth beans, and just harvested yesterday are lavendar seeds. Please email me!!! I am starting a new garden bed and read somewhere that in nature delphs would self sow by Aug 10th. Is this true?

I've got some New Millennium delphinium seeds coming any day now. The plants did so well that I decided to try seeds this time. Of course, the seeds should have been sowed in early August but given the recent heat wave I'm glad that I waited till now. Will let you good folks know next June how they worked out.

Below is a link to the map from the Dowdeswell site showing the range for these plants in North America. Somewhat iffy as perennials here in the Washington DC metro area but definately so further north. Grow them as annuals throughout most the middle of the country. For those in the Deep South ... grow Salvia instead.

I'm just glad they make better delphiniums than they do maps ;)

I'm not Deep South, just South and I am trying them as perennials. I will let you know what happens in the Spring. I have 2 new delphs this year, both repeated, but the one I bought a bit earlier, April or so, is just about toast right now. I keep watering it but the 90 and 100 temperatures this brutal summer have just about done away with the foliage. Is it likely to return?

Mike Rivers, thanks for the Graceful Gardens link, I mean to use it.
la

I think what makes or breaks the delphiniums is a combination of how hot it gets in the summer and how long the heat lasts. We are talking consistent temperatures above 86 degrees Fahrenheit. From the map it looks like they are perennial in zones 4-5-6, annual in zone 7, and at-least-here-in-the-East not worth attempting in zones 8-9-10. In zone six we still get scorching summer heat in the 90s but we also get more days in the 80s than in zones seven and eight. For most of the summer early morning temps are in the low 70s. These conditions along with proper location (i.e. Eastern exposure) makes growing delphiniums possible. California and the Pacific Northwest are the exception to the rule because these regions experience sufficient cool summer days/evenings to support them along the coast in zones 8-9 and possibly 10.

My experience in zone 6b Maryland:

1. Locate against east side of house.

2. Amend soil with compost in early spring. Benefits from wood ash if soil is excessively acidic. Neutral pH is best for growing with roses.

3. Lay down cornmeal to discourage fungal diseases.

4. Lay down rinsed egg shells to discourage slugs; especially when plants are young and tasty.

5. Keep them moist, but not soggy.

6. Feed them on a rose schedule.

7. Buy heat tolerant cultivars (see previous posts) and plant in spring. I plant mine in April but could probably go in earlier due to frost tolerance.

Patrick

8. Stake plants as soon as the flower stalks fully develop but the flowers haven't yet started to open. Yeah I know staking is a pain but the dramatic vertical accent is worth the extra effort.

I love delphiniums with roses

{{gwi:297006}}

ya'll are truly evil. This past spring was the first time I have tried seeds in any quantity- delphs, larkspurs, you name it. Almost 70 dollars worth of seeds, all sown according to their directions and those in the Charleston Garden Club Garden Book... thus far I got a small stand of forget-me-not's (or bachelor's buttons, not sure which they are ) and what look like they might be cosmos if they ever decide to bloom. 1 cleome came up, but it was a leftover purple one from some bedding plants I put in years ago. I didn't even get any hollyhocks this year, even though I planted them in nice little beds... the time I put them directly under the dryer vent they grew like gangbusters most of the summer before succumbing to rust! I think the poor germination had something to do with the lack of rain this spring and summer... the only things I watered were my roses. Oh well, next year is another year and all that!

Patrick, what is the cornmeal thing? You know...they love cornbread in the South.

On Friday, July 22, 2005 MicahelG-z6b-NC-Mts wrote:

"Crown rot kills in extended wet spells where the mulch and soil surface stay wet for long periods. The fungus actually creeps across the soil with brown runners. I had success by planting on a mound with the soil limed but not mulched, and maintaining a ring of dry wood ash on the soil surface. Corn meal on the surface has recently been shown to prevent crown rot by encouraging antagonistic fungi."

That is why I put down cornmeal. My advice to newbies is to read the whole thread, which has been invaluable in my quest to grow beautiful delphiniums in zone 6b.

BTW, to rub salt in the wound here is a pic by Tivoli Rose. I have a single New Millennium BLUE LACE delph that looks just like those in her image (probably is the same delphinium). You gotta admit that the center lavender petals are a nice compliment to the wedgewood blue background color.
{{gwi:235123}}

Patrick, maybe you could sprinkle around some corn masa mix, the cornmeal that comes pre-mixed with lime for tortillas... simultaneous Mexican hat dance optional :)

I live in the PNW, so, an ideal climate for delphiniums. Here at our local nursery they sell pollen crosses from the British Delphinium Society. (For those who live near Portland, it is called the Portland Nursery on Stark or Division.) The label on the plant will say what colors were crossed. You don't quite know what you will get until it blooms. These were bred to improve the delphinium strains. The seed strains that are normally propagated seem to have deteriorated. (At least that is what I have read.)

Over the years these great plants have performed wonderfully for me ... and, the beautiful colors! Not one has ever died and they divide and transplant easily. You still have to stake them but for true blue and purple they can't be beat!

Here is the address that you can order seeds from. Also lots of good info and small books on how to raise these plants from The Delphinium Society.

Mrs. S. Bassett
Takakkaw
Ice House Wood
Oxted, Surrey RH8 9DW
England

I hope this address still works! They are a great resource!
Karen

Wow look at all the respondants! Over a hundred posts on this thread and it looks like it will keep going strong. I understand the obsession. The one color that rosarians covet above all others is blue because no rose has it.

Delphiniums aren't just blue, they are really truly B-L-U-E!

Yeah you can grow Saliva or Catmint or Russian Sage but none have that intense azure hue (not to mention the dramatic flower cluster up to 6 feet tall).

Here's some blue for you:

{{gwi:297007}}
Rebloom last week

{{gwi:297008}}
with Abe Darby

{{gwi:297009}}

Had posted a couple of these in Antique gallery.

Patrick, I just had to resurrect this thread because I think I'm a "little" hooked on Delphiniums now. Just got back from purchasing 4 Magic Fountains, plus I have about 20 various delphs that I started from seed and am hardening off right now.

How are yours doing this year? Which ones are coming back? Oh, and one last question: Do the Magic Fountains require staking?

Thanks so much.

---
Wendy

The New Millennium delphiniums are truly perennial in my USDA Zone 6b garden. All of them have come up and are putting on more leaves. They seem to love this chilly spring we've been having. Magic Fountains are for the most part perennial, but not a hundred percent. Both the Connecticut Yankees and D. belladonna come back, although they have growth habits different from the "typical" delphinium. To be honest I had them so mixed up that I'm not sure which one truly repeats. I had this one delphinium with brilliant blue flower clusters appearing on weird, twisted stems. The foliage was also a deeper shade of green. It came back two years in a row before getting replaced with a NM Royal Aspirations. The Pacific Giants are a complete waste of time outside of Alaska, coastal Northern California and the Pacific Northwest. IMHO, the delphinium reputation for being difficult to grow can be laid right at their feet.

As for staking, don't be fooled by the Magic Fountain advertisements in catalogs. The mags may say MFs don't need staking, but they most certainly do need it.

Mine have not returned so I guess they are pretty dead. Where do you buy the New Milenniums? I have seen the Magic Fountains around but it sounds like the New Mils are the way to go.

The Pacific Giants grow just fine here. They were my first delphiniums I started with (from seed) 8 years ago and I still have divisions of the original plants.

Sigh....it's great to relive this wonderful thread! Thanks for being so devotedly obsessed about the delphs, Patrick - got me thinking about blue underplanting this morning.

I've had no delph luck so far - especially with the drought here - but I'm not giving up. I've had to content myself with "May Night" salvia and "Sunny Border Blue" veronica the last couple of summers, but I long for that electric delph blue.

I get mad when I see the big box stores showcasing pallets of delphs they know darned good and well are going to croak south of Massachusetts.

Lila

Thank you so much, Patrick. My next mission is to find some NM and to make room for them. :)

---
Wendy

:::Where do you buy the New Milenniums?:::

I bought my New Millenium Delphs from Green Mountain Transplants late last fall. I planted them immediately and so far (with fingers crossed) they are doing just fine. Some stayed green all winter but most of the plants I put in are up and now growing nicely. I hear another source for these delphs is Graceful Gardens.

Carole

Hi Everyone,
I am new to the site, I live in Michigan, and stumbled upon it searching for more delphiniums! I also have the New Millenniums and I love them. I bought 32 from Green Mountain last year and they are coming up like gang busters! It doesn't look like I lost a single one.
I do have some questions on growing from seed though.
I have to start by saying I have great luck growing Delphs once they are started but I have a horrible track record with seed...they all die. I tried growing some from Dowdeswell's last year and they ALL germinated really fast (I planted 72 in a plug tray) but just before they got their first true leaves they died. I did use some stuff to encourage root growth and prevent root rot etc but i think they still damped off on me. Any tips?? I want to try them again but after the last Delphinium Massacre I know I need to do more homework. Should I just plant them outside??
Sarah

Green Mountain transplants come in packages of 32? It would be hard to find 32 places to plant them. And is it best to plant them in early Spring or Fall? I planted 2 clematis this fall and they seemed happy. But we had a very late Fall and Winter, so they had time to settle.

redsox, yes they do come in 32...actually I gave some to my mom, sister, and friend (I kept about 15 I think) and theirs are all coming up too. Yes 32 places can be hard to find. I need some more though...some of my other delphs (Magic Fountains) have finally gone this year. I also bought some delicious peach/salmon colored delphiniums from my local nursery that haven't seen to have made it through the winter. :( Need to replace those.
Sarah

I live near Green Mountain Transplants and I think you can mix and match perennials, as long as they add up to 32.

So many of their delphs are mislabeled by color anyways, you may need to plant 32 to get the ones you want.

Oh, good to know before I disturb a bed to match colors.

but..........they have no fragrance???

Last year I had good success with delphiniums from Graceful Gardens in Vermont (I think). Similary you have to by 32 at a time. They performed really well last year. Unfortunately, most of them don't seem to have made it back this year, but at less than $2.00 a piece I don't mind treating them as annuals. I've save the seed.

geo--unfortunately no fragrance whatsoever.

Yay - I found a (not so local) nursery that carried New Milleniums. Of course I snatched up a couple, and now I'm up to 12 Delphs. Can't wait to see them in bloom.

---
Wendy

I just ordered 32 of the NM from green mountain.
Have you had issues w/slugs?

My opinion (for whatever little it is worth) is that I'll plant 4 o'clocks or moonflower or flowering tobacco or something that is fragrant, at night, in an attempt to attract bats, moths to eat the mosquitoes. I read that bats can eat 600 mosquitoes an hour, and that sounds good to me.

Perhaps some nasturtiums, marigolds, geraniums for some of the other insects, too?

The delphiniums look pretty, but if that was my criteria (just appearance & disease resistance) I would have gone with Knockout roses. And so far the Darlow's Enigma does not have much fragrance-we'll see.

Geo, did you ever tried delphiniums. They have some special charm that not that many other flowers have. Defifnitely not to compare with soulless plants. Good grown, big, real delphiniums like Pacific Giant or New Milleniums make you week in your knees. Visually they are some of the BEST companions for roses in my opinion. I am all for fragrance, my roses have to be fragrant, my peonies have to be fragrant. Lilacs, lily of the valley, mock orange, 95% of my perennials are fragrant. Delphiniums are probably some of the very few of my plants that are not fragrant, but I LOVE them. Try them and most probably you will fall in love with them.
olga

Amen Olga.

I have not had any issues with slugs whatsoever on my delphiniums. But I have heard of other people having slugs on them.

If you want bats, you can get bat houses. They work pretty well. I got 32 of the NM in pagen purple, royal asperations and white. Would you plant in blocks of color or mix the colors up? I plan on putting them in the back of a new garden i'm starting....

NM?

Would these things work in pine trees? I have some behind the yard, in with honeysuckle (which, by the way, seems to be working as far as keeping out deer-haven't seen any rabbits lately either, although thats probably due to the neighborhood free range cats).

The only other flower that can match the depth and intensity of the true blue color is the Himalayan Poppy. Delphiniums are A LOT easier to grow than blue poppies. Neither are fragrant.

I'm all for fragrance Geo but too much of a good thing can be ... well ... TOO MUCH. I can't imagine how bad my allergies would be if every plant in the garden was fragrant. My roses are fragrant enough. The companion plants just have to look pretty and provide a floral "frame" for the starring roses.

Just my 2 cents worth,

Patrick

Olga, I like your apt description of weak in the knees. Certain flowers take your breath away. You can hear a distant harp playing. :-)

Olga, I loved your description of delphiniums, too. As mine are growing and thriving, I am highly anticipating to watch them bloom (will be a first time for me).

We have a slug problem in our yard, but I have learned to bait them with both slug bait and beer. Works great.

---
Wendy

1. I also have a slug problem-you should see what those things can do to alpine strawberries! I'd use beer traps, but it seems such a waste.

2. I'm not convinced on the delphs, but I'm not opposed either-guess my usual ambivalence comes to the fore. I guess I'll try on a test basis, at some point. I've got a lot of lawn to dig up & leaf mulch to incorporate in the meantime. Those things are poisonous? Not that I plan on eating any, still it might somehow mix in with the dandelions that look to be peoples food of the future.

3. I'm still intrigued by the bats, and the moonflowers, and the 4 o'clocks, etc.. Not sure how my rosa moschata temple musk will do in that regard, so accompaniment seems warranted.

Well I just ordered 10 more New Millennium delphiniums for the new flower bed I'm putting in this spring. I'll have CLIMBING LA FRANCE and DEUIL DE DOCTEUR REYNAUD trained up two east facing trellis attached to the side of the house. Should be lovely.

PLEASE NOTE: In the Eastern United States the New Millennium delphiniums are only perennial in USDA Zones 4-6, but can be grown as annuals in zone 7. In zones 7-9 try growing annual Larkspur as a substitute. Remember, they don't like prolonged summer heat and humidity, especially when evening temps don't drop below 85.

Image of LA FRANCE by LaBrea, previously posted on the Antique Roses Gallery.
{{gwi:229644}}